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  #21   Report Post  
Jim Richardson
 
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Default Manual marine head

On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 14:47:23 GMT,
Peggie Hall wrote:
Jere Lull wrote:
I am in a process of refitting my head/shower area on my sailboat. I
want to change head for something reliable,manual,not terribly
expensive.I'm thinking of Raritan's Cricket...


We got one a few years back and like it, but it is a bit different
than the Compact it replaced and the Pars we've used on other boats.


Yep...instead of the piston/cylinder pump sitting beside the bowl, the
Cricket has a diaphragm pump located directly below the bowl...no
moving parts.

If we had a lot of guests, I think I'd prefer the PH or Compact, but
for the two of us, the Cricket has definite advantages. Check the
cost of a rebuild kit.


It's not really a rebuild kit, it's a whole new pump except for the
housing. Unlike piston/cylinder pumps, the Cricket doesn't have any
seals, o-rings, gaskets etc--the parts in the usual "rebuild kit"...so
it doesn't require "rebuilding" in the usual sense. In fact, it
doesn't even need lubrication. A kit is needed only as often as any
other toilet would need a whole new pump assembly. So the price for it
should really be compared to the prices of a new pump assemblies for
other toilets, not rebuild kits.



What is your opinion of the cricket? we are looking at replacing the
head in Windwalker when we add a holding tank, and want something
sturdy, reliable, and not too expensive (I know, pick two of the
three...)


--
Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock
Good judgement comes with experience. Unfortunately, the experience
usually comes from bad judgement.
  #22   Report Post  
Peggie Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Manual marine head

Jim Richardson wrote:
What is your opinion of the cricket? we are looking at replacing the
head in Windwalker when we add a holding tank, and want something
sturdy, reliable, and not too expensive (I know, pick two of the
three...)


The Cricket is a nice toilet...but not without quirks. For about the
same price, the PH II will give you 3 for 3.

I have a plane to catch and don't know if I'll have NG access for next
week. So if you have more questions, hold 'em...I'll answer 'em when I
get home.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

  #23   Report Post  
Tom
 
Posts: n/a
Default Manual marine head

I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My
experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the
piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can
make some observations.

The first problem I had was that the first generation (which I bought)
came without a piece that they have now. This little ring keeps the
poo from blowing back in your face when too much pressure builds up
pumping a big load out. This went on for about two years and really
soured me on the cricket. I found out from this ng that raritan would
send me this blow back stopper part for free, and since then, I
haven't had poo blow back into my face. Good thing I check ng's once
in a while.

At about the same time it started to leak so when I got the part I
also ordered a rebuild kit. Turns out nothing was wrong with any of
the rubber bits - but the pump base itself had cracked. Which brings
me to the next problem I have with crickets - they are all plastic
construction. I'm sure this is what keeps the cost down compared to
say groccos or skippers or other diaphragm pump based toilets made of
bronze. Anyway, I fixed it with some west system, rebuilt it, and the
thing finally gave me about 3 years of pretty maintenance free
operation, no leaks, no poo blow back, rarely clogging. Those three
years of good live-aboard use make it worth the low price in my mind
and have softened the hard feelings I had about it during the years of
poo blow back and leaking.

Now I just recently moved ashore. My toilet sat dry for about a
month. Last week I went to go sail out to the islands here and the
head wouldn't flush. I couldn't figure out what was wrong and instead
of going sailing I spent the whole morning thurs. taking it apart, and
handling feces. While I took it apart a stainless bolt that rests in
a bronze thread molded into the plastic had siezed and while I torqued
on it the plastic broke. Well that was it. I went sailing with a
bucket and when I got back, I went to defender's website and ordered a
lavac.

I'm not saying the cricket's a bad head. You get what you pay for,
its pretty good for its price (with the blow back stopper that now
comes standard). I actually chose it because I have a small space and
it is very compact compared to other heads that aren't the piston
types. I won't even consider the piston types - what an absurd
design. If raritan came out with a bronze version or the grocco was
smaller I'd go with those. Meanwhile, I know the lavac will fit and
the rebuild kit for its pump can double as the rebuild kit for my
cockpit manual bilge pump.
  #24   Report Post  
Peggie Hall
 
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Default Manual marine head

Jere Lull wrote:
If only the wet/dry switch weren't in such an inconvenient location.


Raritan offers an "extension pole" that allows it to be operated without
sticking your head in the bowl.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

  #25   Report Post  
Peggie Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Manual marine head

Jere Lull wrote:
If only the wet/dry switch weren't in such an inconvenient location.


Raritan offers an "extension pole" that allows it to be operated without
sticking your head in the bowl.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html



  #26   Report Post  
Peggie Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Manual marine head

Tom wrote:
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My
experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the
piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can
make some observations.


The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error,"
common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less
forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl is
empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting in the
discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone flushes
something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump is just a
large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use continues to
pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on the side of the
pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the discharge, till it
produces the backpressure and eruption you describe. After numerous
attempts to design a flapper valve strong enough to resist the pressure
needed to break up the clog and send it downstream, Raritan--also
knowing that few if any boat owners will flush enough to keep waste from
building up in it--finally gave up and discontinued production of the
Cricket this year.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

  #27   Report Post  
Peggie Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Manual marine head

Tom wrote:
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My
experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the
piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can
make some observations.


The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error,"
common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less
forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl is
empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting in the
discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone flushes
something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump is just a
large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use continues to
pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on the side of the
pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the discharge, till it
produces the backpressure and eruption you describe. After numerous
attempts to design a flapper valve strong enough to resist the pressure
needed to break up the clog and send it downstream, Raritan--also
knowing that few if any boat owners will flush enough to keep waste from
building up in it--finally gave up and discontinued production of the
Cricket this year.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

  #28   Report Post  
Jim Richardson
 
Posts: n/a
Default Manual marine head


On Tue, 06 Apr 2004 15:14:43 GMT,
Peggie Hall wrote:
Tom wrote:
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My
experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the
piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can
make some observations.


The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error,"
common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less
forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl
is empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting
in the discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone
flushes something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump
is just a large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use
continues to pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on
the side of the pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the
discharge, till it produces the backpressure and eruption you
describe. After numerous attempts to design a flapper valve strong
enough to resist the pressure needed to break up the clog and send it
downstream, Raritan--also knowing that few if any boat owners will
flush enough to keep waste from building up in it--finally gave up and
discontinued production of the Cricket this year.


So with that in mind, what head would you recommend for installing in a
"new" head. That is, we are going to be ripping out the existing
discharge over the side only head, (which is in desperate need of a
rebuild anyway) and we are going to put it a holding tank, and new head.
Suggestions for the head?


--
Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock
"We have to go forth and crush every world view that doesn't believe in
tolerance and free speech," - David Brin
  #29   Report Post  
Jim Richardson
 
Posts: n/a
Default Manual marine head


On Tue, 06 Apr 2004 15:14:43 GMT,
Peggie Hall wrote:
Tom wrote:
I bought a cricket head, based largely on advice from this ng. My
experience with it is mixed. It is slightly better then the
piston-pump W-C it replaced. I think after having owned it, I can
make some observations.


The REAL problem with the Cricket is actually an "operator error,"
common among owners of most toilets, but the Cricket is much less
forgiving: incomplete flushing...ceasing to pump as soon as the bowl
is empty. In most toilets, that only leaves waste and/or TP sitting
in the discharge hose where it rarely creates a clog unless someone
flushes something they shouldn't have. But because the Cricket's pump
is just a large diaphragm directly below the bowl, unless the use
continues to pump till all the waste is pushed out the discharge on
the side of the pump, waste and TP build up in it, blocking the
discharge, till it produces the backpressure and eruption you
describe. After numerous attempts to design a flapper valve strong
enough to resist the pressure needed to break up the clog and send it
downstream, Raritan--also knowing that few if any boat owners will
flush enough to keep waste from building up in it--finally gave up and
discontinued production of the Cricket this year.


So with that in mind, what head would you recommend for installing in a
"new" head. That is, we are going to be ripping out the existing
discharge over the side only head, (which is in desperate need of a
rebuild anyway) and we are going to put it a holding tank, and new head.
Suggestions for the head?


--
Jim Richardson http://www.eskimo.com/~warlock
"We have to go forth and crush every world view that doesn't believe in
tolerance and free speech," - David Brin
  #30   Report Post  
Lew Hodgett
 
Posts: n/a
Default Manual marine head


"Jim Richardson" writes:

So with that in mind, what head would you recommend for installing in a
"new" head. That is, we are going to be ripping out the existing
discharge over the side only head, (which is in desperate need of a
rebuild anyway) and we are going to put it a holding tank, and new head.


Lavac.

It simply has no equal IMHO.

Add two (2), Whale 3-way valves and a 2nd dip tube to the holding tank and
you can accomplish the following:

1) Deck pump out when at dock.
2) Direct overboard discharge when legal.
3) Pump out holding tank to the sea when in legal area.

All that and no added toys required.

The Henderson MkV pump supplied with the Lavac is the pump, the Whales
direct the flow.

End of story.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures


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