On 12/30/12 11:36 AM, Eisboch wrote:


"ESAD" wrote in message
...



My dad had a Willys FC-150 for a while at the boat store. He was a big
fan of Willys and Jeep vehicles, and bought and restored at least a
dozen of them in the 1950s and 1960s. The FC-150, which sort of
resembled the Ford "forward cab" panel trucks, was absolutely an awful
vehicle, and it didn't tow boats very well, either, even the much
smaller outboard rig boats of that era. A year after he got it, he
replaced it with a Ford "stake" truck, which had a stump puller first
gear and seemingly could tow anything. Pretty fast truck, too, if you
started in 2nd gear.



Looked something like this:

http://tinyurl.com/b98rltq

--------------------------

That's pretty cool. I don't think I've ever seen one before.



My guess is that it wasn't a big seller.

He bought it from the Jeep dealership that at the time, if my memory
isn't playing tricks on me, was located on Whalley Avenue near Cooley
Chevrolet.

http://tinyurl.com/asnbd95

On 12/30/12 11:42 AM, Eisboch wrote:


"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...

On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any
stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads
that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger.

===

I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling
chips inside the cylinder?

-------------------

I don't know. Never had a V-10 and never had to do it. I've know at
least two people that had a spark plug fly out of the engine though.
One happened on the road beside my driveway. Guy was towing a 26' boat
to the launch ramp in Plymouth. I stopped to see if he needed some help
and at first he didn't know what the problem was. Said he heard a big
"bang" and then the truck started running rough. The hood was open and
all seemed fine until we saw a spark plug sitting on one of the frame
members.



That'll shape up your day.

In article ,
says...

On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any
stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads
that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger.

===

I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling
chips inside the cylinder?

There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the
cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap.

"iBoaterer" wrote in message
...


There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the
cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap.

-------------------------------------------------

I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the
carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go
under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark,
and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink,
tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb.
Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused
enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined.

In article ,
says...

"iBoaterer" wrote in message
...


There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the
cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap.

-------------------------------------------------

I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the
carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go
under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark,
and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink,
tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb.
Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused
enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined.

Valve keeper on a 289 Ford came off, valve dropped down while driving
down the highway, pulled over and figured what to hell, I need to get
home from the middle of nowhere, it started up, went home on 7
cylinders. Next day went to pull it in the shop, and that's when the
cylinder hit the valve in such a way that it broke it off of the stem,
punched a hole in the piston, scraped up the cylinder wall.....

On 12/30/2012 11:32 AM, BAR wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any
stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads
that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger.

===

I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling
chips inside the cylinder?

I would imagine if you are doing the head.. Sorry, I misread. The fix I
am talking about is the oil drain plug down in the aluminum case.

Oops!

On 12/30/2012 8:11 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:44:22 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

True, but the material the heli-coil is installed in isn't any
stronger. A heli-coil is great for replacing stripped out threads
that need to be drilled out but it doesn't make anything any stronger.

===

I'm assuming you must have to pull the head to avoid getting drilling
chips inside the cylinder?

I read a customer's account of a Ford dealer that did it in place, just
blowing the cylinder out after and hoping for the best.

wrote:
On Fri, 28 Dec 2012 14:24:40 -0500, GuzzisRule
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Dec 2012 23:11:12 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 27 Dec 2012 16:28:34 -0500, GuzzisRule
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Dec 2012 14:20:09 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 27 Dec 2012 12:42:52 -0500, GuzzisRule
wrote:

True, but once you get up to those $300-$500 a night rooms, RV's
start looking pretty good!

Not unless you spend more than 3 weeks on the road a year.
Just the amortization of the cost of the RV was more than we spent on
rooms, rentacars and air fare when we ran the numbers with my RV owner
neighbor (based on losing 50% of the purchase price in 5 years).

That was a conservative guess

Well, a big part of that depends on the purchase price of the RV. Ours
wasn't near six figures -
unless you include the truck, which I don't 'cause I needed it anyway.

Unless you really need a big truck for something else, you have to
include the truck. Those guys with 5th wheelers look pretty funny at
home depot with a dually.

Those guys with a dually have a *big* dick, or so I've heard. The extra
capacity afforded by the
dually is about 1100lbs for the Silverado 2500 diesel. There are a bunch of cons.

I needed that truck to haul stuff with. Actually, the one I had prior to
this one hauled stuff, but
I gave it to a nephew.

If I am not picking up something like sheets of plywood I just take my
Prelude. I can get a dozen 2x4 8s or 15 bags of concrete in there.

These are cypress saw mill slats I got from a local mill for trim on
my new book case
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Packing%20honda.jpg

I have had a pickup for years. Even when it was a 3 rd vehicle. Always
handy. But I pull a #4400 boat trailer combo and do have a slide in
camper. But just use.a lumber rack when taking the kayak for the day.
Wife also has a Venza so the smaller car need is filled also. When towing
a large trailer boat, I want both the power and safety of a larger pickup.
Mine is a 2004 and gets 19 mpg on the highway not towing and about 14
towing to the Sierras.

In article ,
says...

On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote:

In article , says...


Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical
surface of the threads, it's just math.

It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period.

It is threaded into a bigger hole tho and that means more base metal
is in play.
The plug itself is steel to steel too, so it will come out a lot
easier while the Helicoil is bound to the aluminum.

I had to helicoil a plug on my Benelli 250. The factory installed plug
came out with the threads still attached to the aluminum.

Yes, there is more contact area in play, BUT, the threads of the
helicoil aren't as deep as a standard ASME course thread.

In article ,
says...

On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 11:33:37 -0500, JustWait
wrote:

Anything structural, we would not use a helicoil at all.

I used a Helicoil for a crank cap on a Vega motor (in my Monza). I put
50,000 miles on it after that, no problems.

Absolutely. If a helicoil can stand up to 10:1 compression ratios or
greater, it can stand up to about anything "structural". I'll bet the
coil insert is about as good capacity wise as the tensile strength of
the bolt it's holding.