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#472
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 22:57:46 -0500, ESAD wrote:
On 12/30/12 9:44 PM, JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote: "Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. ESAD, you are absolutely the greatest at everything! Hope you had a great Christmas Season and that your New Year is spectacular! |
#473
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
On 12/31/2012 2:21 PM, GuzzisRule wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 22:57:46 -0500, ESAD wrote: On 12/30/12 9:44 PM, JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote: "Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. That's cause you don't do enough of them (if any lol), and certainly don't do them under anywhere near the conditions we work under. And if you don't have any parts left over you must suck. When you truly aspire to master mechanic you are blessed with a little phenomenon called "immaculate reproduction"... usually in the form of little baby metal thingies... ESAD, you are absolutely the greatest at everything! He's just jealous cause my kids built their own boats and rebuilt their own race machines before the age of 14.. and of course they being girls, harry is even more offended... Hope you had a great Christmas Season and that your New Year is spectacular! |
#474
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
iBoaterer wrote:
In article , says... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. The fix should be stronger than the original hole and threads. Base metal strength has not changed, but the Helicoil will spread the force over a larger area. |
#475
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
On 12/31/12 2:27 PM, JustWait wrote:
On 12/31/2012 2:21 PM, GuzzisRule wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 22:57:46 -0500, ESAD wrote: On 12/30/12 9:44 PM, JustWait wrote: On 12/30/2012 8:54 PM, Califbill wrote: "Eisboch" wrote: "iBoaterer" wrote in message ... There are ways, not ideal but there are ways to keep debris in the cylinder to minimum, first is liberal use of grease on the tap. ------------------------------------------------- I accidently dropped a small stainless steel lock washer into the carburetor of a Fiat 850 Coupe we had years ago. It was supposed to go under the wingnut that held the air filter cover on. It was dark, and when I went to put the cover on, I heard a little "tink", tink, tink". I didn't even think that it may have gone in the carb. Fired the engine up and within just a few seconds of running it caused enough damage to require the head to be removed and machined. --------- I'll one up you. I raced a 64 Vette fuel injection B production in SCCA. Somehow a spare spark plug bell in the injector manifold, probably when setting upside down near the work bench. During practice that plug went down one of the tubes. I guess the valves bounced it back up and by the time I pulled off because the engine was running really rough, it had bent 7 of the intake valves. I was putting an engine together last year to sell a KX125, I dropped a screw in it and didn't notice. Had to call the guy back and tell him he couldn't buy the bike. Sold it in a basket for 700 a few weeks later. For a guy who often claims here he was a master wrencher, you sure seem to have been clumsy and sloppy. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have taken a few yard equipment engines apart in recent years, and I managed to keep track of all the pieces and parts. I use muffin tins for the smallest parts like screws, pins, keys, bearings, et cetera. Son of a gun, when I put them back together, there were no parts left over and none missing. That's cause you don't do enough of them (if any lol), and certainly don't do them under anywhere near the conditions we work under. And if you don't have any parts left over you must suck. When you truly aspire to master mechanic you are blessed with a little phenomenon called "immaculate reproduction"... usually in the form of little baby metal thingies... ESAD, you are absolutely the greatest at everything! He's just jealous cause my kids built their own boats and rebuilt their own race machines before the age of 14.. and of course they being girls, harry is even more offended... Hope you had a great Christmas Season and that your New Year is spectacular! As I said, I am not much of a mechanic, but when I do take a yard equipment engine apart, I do keep track of the parts. The only parts left over are the parts I've replaced. Oh, there's *nothing* about your progeny that makes me jealous. I'm perfectly happy with the intellectual, academic and career success of my family members. Why you would think I would be "jealous" of a girl motorbike racer is beyond me. What, exactly, is there to be jealous of...that she's not going to college? |
#476
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
In article 1507068199378670736.858223bmckeenospam-
, says... iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. The fix should be stronger than the original hole and threads. Base metal strength has not changed, but the Helicoil will spread the force over a larger area. Nope, what I said is that the fix is NO STRONGER THAN THE BASE METAL. It's called yield strength, go study and get back to me. |
#477
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
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#478
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
iBoaterer wrote:
In article 1507068199378670736.858223bmckeenospam- , says... iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. The fix should be stronger than the original hole and threads. Base metal strength has not changed, but the Helicoil will spread the force over a larger area. Nope, what I said is that the fix is NO STRONGER THAN THE BASE METAL. It's called yield strength, go study and get back to me. You are ignorant. The fix is not stronger than the base metal, but there is more base metal involved. Therefore the fix is stronger. |
#479
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
On 12/31/2012 3:22 PM, Califbill wrote:
iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... On 12/30/2012 2:34 PM, wrote: On Sun, 30 Dec 2012 10:21:34 -0500, iBoaterer wrote: In article , says... Helicoil in anything adds substantial surface area to the mechanical surface of the threads, it's just math. It's still not any stronger than the base metal, period. There is more surface as the hole is bigger, period. The type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant, more is more... period. I knew the engineer wouldn't know ****, take the question to a technician tomorrow at work and have him explain it to you, LOL! I don't give a **** if the hole is bigger or not, dumb ass. Are you REALLY saying that the "type of metal or the thickness is irrelevant"????? If so you are a complete fool and shouldn't ever be allowed near anything mechanical. The base metal properties have ALL to do with the strength that any set of threads can hold. The fix is NOT any stronger than the base metal. How could it possibly be? The base metal is doing the holding...... Would you care for me to prove it to you mathematically? I'll bet you'll pull a Harry and start the name calling now. The fix should be stronger than the original hole and threads. Base metal strength has not changed, but the Helicoil will spread the force over a larger area. It blows me away how folks don't "see" this... It's so obvious. And yes to the line draftsman up there a couple paragraphs... NO, the thickness and composition of the metal has no bearing on this conversation, it is a constant dumbass... unless you start drilling enough to effect other structural components of the part... Like I said. Get up from your desk and walk out into the shop. Find a decent technician, mechanic, or any machinist and have them explain it to you... I love it when folks go overboard defending something they are obviously way out of their paygrade |
#480
posted to rec.boats
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Generator
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