Jay wrote

So whaddya think? If some say the Suzuki 4hp and even the 2.5 hp
would push that 14 footer around the nice quiet lake at 5-6 mph,
wouldn't that screamin' Tohatsu 3.5 hp two-stroke do the job too?
BTW, the exhaust is under the water.

Capital Jay! I push a 14' Al. all over the bay I live on with an old 2
HP Evenrude, works just fine. Hell I've towed a 27' 6500lb sailboat with it.

Cheers
Marty

Richard Casady wrote:
if the power required is small. We are both guessing about
that all important figure In any case, that would require maybe an 8D
battery, at 150 lbs, If you don't run it down below half.

I figure a solar panel should be big enough to run a small ventilation
fan, pump out any rainwater or leakage, and run an anchor light as
well as just keep a battery charged.

Somehow, my reading of the OPs message gave me a completely different
impression. No mention of anchor light, ventilation, bilge pump, none
of that. Just a simple row boat that he wants to push with power
instead of oars. Just wants to putter around a bit, anchor a bit,
snooze, read, and float. No range increase and no speed increase
necessary. Ufortunately, no mention of a number of details like
whether or not he trailers the boat or how/where he stores it.
So I made some assumptions (and I should never have mentioned solar
panel). I'm thinkin' 40-50 lb battery, not 150 lb. No electrical drain
other than the trolling motor. Leave the battery in the boat on a
trailer, (or not, remember it's only 40-50lbs) use a 110v battery
charger to keep it up if a solar panel won't do. It's just a simple
row boat.

I have a 14' fiberglass skiff that's 225 lbs. I can almost plane it
with a 6hp Evinrude if I sit amidships with a tiller extension (I'm
170 lbs). So I know 6hp is a lot more than he wants. From his post,
I'm thinkin' even 2.5 is more than adequate for his needs..
Anyhow, you're right. We're all guessing ... and plugging our own
wants and needs into his situation.

Rick

On Apr 12, 7:21*pm, wrote:
Richard Casady wrote: I thought he just wants something to free up his hands. Not an increase in power or range. Normally, you don't think of oars for range or to be used against headwinds or current or tides. None of which will he likely encounter on a small lake anyway (I'm thinkin' SMALL lake). And on a 14' 195 lb open boat? Even 2.5hp would be a big increase in power over oars..I'm just sayin', it takes very little mechanical effort to do the same job as oars on a small lake with a boat that small/light. -shrug- but maybe I'm misunderstanding what
he's trying to accomplish.
Rick

No, Rick, you're understanding perfectly what I'm looking for.
Something that will provide push a notch above oars and save me from
rowing.

Somehow, my reading of the OPs message gave me a completely different
impression. No mention of anchor light, ventilation, bilge pump, none
of that. Just a simple row boat that he wants to push with power
instead of oars. Just wants to putter around a bit, anchor a bit,
snooze, read, and float. No range increase and no speed increase
necessary.

Right again, keep it simple. Just a rowboat with a motor to
replace the human power. No extras, nothing more, simple, simple,
simple setup.


Unfortunately, no mention of a number of details like whether or not he trailers the boat or how/where he stores it.

Boat is a G3 Guide V14 on a standard boat trailer that cost about
$500 new and the boat is stored on the trailer under a carport.

I have a 14' fiberglass skiff that's 225 lbs. I can almost plane it with a 6hp Evinrude if I sit amidships with a tiller extension (I'm 170lbs). So I know 6hp is a lot more than he wants. From his post,I'm thinkin' even 2.5 is more than adequate for his needs..Anyhow, you're right. We're all guessing ... and plugging our own
wants and needs into his situation.
Rick

Well, Rick, no prob there. That happens quite often in
newsgroups. Check out the price ($721) of this new 2008 Suzuki 2.5 HP
on this link (free shipping).

http://omnimarinefl.com/mm5/merchant...ategory_Code=1

Could that Suzuki be my new seat of oars? LOL

Or maybe this Tohatsu 3.5 HP for $830.

http://omnimarinefl.com/mm5/merchant...ategory_Code=4

Other Tohatsu motors.....

http://omnimarinefl.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Co de=4

Other Suzuki motors.......

http://omnimarinefl.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Co de=3

On Sat, 12 Apr wrote:
you're understanding perfectly what I'm looking for.
Something that will provide push a notch above oars and save me from
rowing.

Nice boat :-)
Frankly, I don't think you can go wrong with anything that's been
mentioned so far. By the sounds of your current needs, electric will
work fine. And it has price and maintenance advantages over gas.
Problem is, your boat has potential to be so much more. If you think
you may ever expand your horizons, you might do better spending the
extra $$ now on gas, just in case.
Electric is almost dead silent. I would especially like that on a
small quiet lake. And if you store it for years, it'll work when you
drag it out. Gas can be more cantankerous when out of mind for that
long. There's advantages/disadvantages to both.
Another consideration. It's natural for people to want more than they
have. We'll always want something a little bigger, a little faster, a
little more. So if you fall into that category, you might as well
consider 15-20hp and be done with it lol! OR go electric for very few
dollars now and start saving for when the expansion bug bites. You
have no wrong options here (nothing wrong with oars either).
My 2 cents............. ;-)
Rick

On Apr 13, 4:19*am, wrote:
Nice boat :-) Frankly, I don't think you can go wrong with anything that's been
mentioned so far. By the sounds of your current needs, electric will
work fine. And it has price and maintenance advantages over gas.
Problem is, your boat has potential to be so much more. *If you think
you may ever expand your horizons, you might do better spending the
extra $$ now on gas, just in case.

Actually, the next boat, if there is one in the future, will be a
21' Party Barge pontoon type. I've already received the "word" on
that from above. And it will come with a mega-horsepower motor so
that won't be a decision I'll have to make.

Electric is almost dead silent. I would especially like that on a small quiet lake. And if you store it for years, it'll work when you drag it out. Gas can be more cantankerous when out of mind for that long. There's advantages/disadvantages to both.

I already own a 30 lb. thrust Minn-Kota electric motor and have a
big marine deep cycle battery but didn't think that would even get the
Guide V14 moving at all. How does a 30 lb. thrust electric equate to
a gas outboard. What equivalent horsepower?

Another consideration. It's natural for people to want more than they have.. We'll always want something a little bigger, a little faster, a little more. So if you fall into that category, you might as well consider 15-20hp and be done with it lol! *OR go electric for very few dollars now and start saving for when the expansion bug bites.

I don't fall into that category nor do I buy compulsively I
carefully choose my purchases after looking into possible future needs
and if I'm gonna pull water skiers or jet across the reservoir at Mach
1 it won't be in that G3 Guide V14. Nope, that boat has been strictly
designated the floating raft that moves occasionally to a shady nook
or inlet to the lake while the babe and I relax on the water. And I
can relax more if I not rowing.

You have no wrong options here (nothing wrong with oars either). My 2 cents.............. *;-)
Rick

Not true, there IS something wrong with oars. I have to use my
arms and hands to make them move! That's what this whole gig is
about. Hiowever, with all of the input I'm sorta leaning between the
Suzuki 2.5 HP 4-stroke, the Tohatsu 4 HP 4-stroke and the Tohatsu 3.5
HP 2-stroke. Check out this nice review on the Suzuki 2.5 hp which I
can have delivered to my front door for $721.00.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Suzuki's DF2.5 is the world's most fuel efficient tender outboard,
reports Andrew Norton

The DF2.5 is the smallest and lightest four-stroke outboard Suzuki
Marine has released. Weighing just 30 lbs., the DF2.5 has a 68cc
single-cylinder OHV powerhead with thermostatically-controlled
watercooling.

Developing 2.4hp at 5500 revs (based on 1hp equaling 746W) with a Wide
Open Throttle operating range of 5250 to 5750rpm, the DF2.5 has a
forward-neutral gearshift, 360-degree steering, twist-grip throttle
control, four easily-adjusted trim positions and an automatically-
engaging full tilt lock. Sensibly, Suzuki has incorporated a stopper
device that prevents the powerhead rotating more than a few degrees
when the outboard is fully tilted. Effective steering and throttle
friction adjusters are provided.

Unlike its Honda BF2D competition, the DF2.5 has a moulded carry
handle on the aft end of the lower cowl, ensuring the outboard will
always be carried the correct way to prevent sump oil from flooding
the cylinder. Alternatively, the outboard may be stored on its side on
the moulded lower cowl lugs provided.

Like the Honda, the DF2.5 has an easily-read oil level sight glass in
the lower cowl, with the sump accessed by unscrewing a plug to one
side of the sump, which holds 0.38lt of oil. But, unlike the Honda,
which relies on splash or 'mist' lubrication and can only use Honda
SAE 10W30 oil that's rated to a maximum ambient temperature of 32
degrees, the pressure-lubricated DF2.5 can use oils from 10W30 up to
20W40. However the Quicksilver four-cycle watercooled 10W30 oil used
by my local Suzuki dealer can be used in all ambient temperatures from
minus 20 degrees to over 40 degrees and provides rapid crankshaft,
piston ring and rocker gear lubrication on cold starting.

Servicing intervals for the DF2.5 are every 50 hours or six months
after the initial check-up at 20 hours. The waterpump impeller should
be checked and/or replaced every 100 hours or once a year. A nice
touch is the chrome rocker cover, which allows for valve clearance
adjustment by removing four bolts, whereas this adjustment in the
Honda necessitates removing the entire air cooling shroud, including
the overhead recoil starter.

The DF2.5's large-capacity zinc anode just above the anti-ventilation
plate should handle any leg electrolysis when the tender is rafted up
alongside a yacht or cruiser.

Compared to the BF2D, the DF2.5 swings a relatively coarse-pitch prop
for such a small outboard, even allowing for its 2.15:1 reduction
ratio. But whereas the Honda has a 2.42:1 gear reduction and a 4.5-
inch pitch prop compared to 5.4 inches for the Suzuki, the latter's
prop is weedless and able to 'slip' a lot more under load compared to
the Honda's 'high thrust' prop. The swept-back weedless blades also
catch less weed than the Honda's prop.

The DF2.5 normally starts first pull, hot or cold, and reaches normal
operating temperature in about two minutes from cold. The lack of
water spraying from the exhaust relief holes until the thermostat has
opened is a bit disconcerting and Suzuki should fit a separate pilot
water discharge similar to the DF4 to DF6 range of four strokes.

Because of its small displacement powerhead, the DF2.5 idles in
neutral at around 2000rpm and 1500 in gear, whereas with its
centrifugal clutch the Honda idles at about 1500 in neutral. But, when
trolling, the Suzuki would run for up to 10 hours on a litre of fuel
compared to eight for the Honda. And, despite its 19 per cent greater
piston displacement, the Suzuki has lower vibration levels and, being
watercooled, it is significantly quieter across the entire rev range.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

So Tohatsu 3.5 HP 2-stroke ($650), Suzuki 2.5 HP 4-stroke
($721), Tohatsu 3.5 HP 4-stroke ($835) or Tohatsu 4 HP 4-stroke)
$965? Decisions, decisions.....any preferences out there for one of
these if my 30 lb. Minn-Kota electric won't push it around with 500
lbs. on board?

-Jay

On Sun, 13 Apr 08, Jay wrote:
I already own a 30 lb. thrust Minn-Kota electric motor and have a
big marine deep cycle battery but didn't think that would even get the
Guide V14 moving at all.

Try it!
And let us know. Don't forget to take your oars just in case lol!
On a lake with no wind, no current, and a fresh battery, 30lbs will
move it. Maybe not fast enough (I had 40-50 lbs in mind), but since
you already have it, it won't cost a dime to experiment. There's no
better way to find out what it'll do.
What do you use your trolling motor for currently? (I'm thinking about
30lbs for my canoe).
Meanwhile, sounds like you're set on a gasoline engine and there's
certainly nothing wrong with that idea. To each his own.
(but seriously, just try 30lbs and let us know)

Rick

On A
"Jay" wrote in message
...

Not true, there IS something wrong with oars. I have to use my
arms and hands to make them move! That's what this whole gig is
about.

Oars are the way to go if you have a decent dinghy and decent oars to row it
with. I have proper dinghies and have often rowed out to my boat on the
mooring and got there before the other guy had mounted his o/b and got it
running to try and catch up with me..

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Suzuki's DF2.5 is the world's most fuel efficient tender outboard,
reports Andrew Norton

The DF2.5 is the smallest and lightest four-stroke outboard Suzuki
Marine has released. Weighing just 30 lbs., the DF2.5 has a 68cc
single-cylinder OHV powerhead with thermostatically-controlled
watercooling.

For cases where a motor is needed (inflatable dinghy with lousy plastic
oars)I have a Yamaha F2.5a. Nice little four-stroke motor which does all
that you say but is a bit heavier at 371/2 lb.
And for a seldom used 2.5 hp o/b fuel consumption is hardly an issue.

On Apr 13, 7:59*am, "Edgar" wrote:
On A"Jay" wrote in message

...

Not true, there IS something wrong with oars. *I have to use my
arms and hands to make them move! *That's what this whole gig is
about.

Oars are the way to go if you have a decent dinghy and decent oars to row it
with. *I have proper dinghies and have often rowed out to my boat on the
mooring and got there before the other guy had mounted his o/b and got it
running to try and catch up with me..


But Edgar, my getting rid of the reliance on oars is not about
getting my dinghy to another boat, it's about that old Greyhound Bus
phrase "leave the driving to us." I don't want to row anymore...been
there, done that. I want someone/something else to do the work for
me.

Earlier, Rick asked, "What do you use your trolling motor for
currently? (I'm thinking about 30lbs for my canoe).

We used to have a Walker Bay 10 that would skim along the water at
a pretty good pace with oar-power and used the 30 lb. thrust electric
motor on that. We sold the Walker Bay when we got the G3 Guide V14.

-Jay

On 2008-04-13 08:15:10 -0400, Jay said:

Decisions, decisions.....any preferences out there for one of
these if my 30 lb. Minn-Kota electric won't push it around with 500
lbs. on board?

If you've got the electric already, why not try it and see how it
works? From what you say, it sounds good enough, but only you can
accurately assess that.

30 pounds continuous could get our 28 footer moving at perhaps a knot
or two in flat water.

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On Apr 14, 5:50*pm, Jere Lull wrote: If you've got
the electric already, why not try it and see how it works? From what
you say, it sounds good enough, but only you can accurately assess
that. 30 pounds continuous could get our 28 footer moving at perhaps
a knot or two in flat water.
Jere Lull


I'll give it a try. Does anyone know of a formula to roughly
equate electric motors to horsepower? Would be curious as to the
horsepower equivalent of my Minn-Kota Endura 30. -J