"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
And now looks like
the impeller as I am watching the water outlet closely but tonight it
wasn't working and then steam was venting out so I stopped

Just steam coming out is a definite sign of cooling difficulties. Good
thing to stop!

Not if it's a steam engine!

Wilbur Hubbard

On Mon, 25 Jun 2012 18:44:05 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Tried the Sea Foam for a couple days, really hard to keep that engine
running. Runs in high idle but get lower and wants to stall. Choke stops the
stall but keeping it in High idle is worring me too much. And now looks like
the impeller as I am watching the water outlet closely but tonight it wasn't
working and then steam was venting out so I stopped. I am trying to run as
much of that SeaFoam through as I can. I put about 20% of the can into a
2.5gal can mixed 50:1 with fresh high test with no alcohol.

Looks like going to have to try taking off the carb and cleaning it out.
Shouldn't be a problem, it has run nice for near 10 years as trolling motor
and never missed a beat and just this season has failed. So must go to the
west marine near by get the impeller kit .

Is there a carb kit or anything else I would need to do a 10 year service?
Thnx,,




"WaIIy" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 22 Jun 2012 18:03:29 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb
off
and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder if I
could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a small
tank
and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and spray some
carb cleaner into the carb.

What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a
short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine
might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in
there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not
to mention all the mechinism.

Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that
please?
In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to the
store
to get.

Any suggestions or comments on this plan?

Thanks much for your help.



You might try this first and once you're set, use it once in a while.

It's the gold standard for small engines.

Regular - Sea Foam - it's at auto stores, Walmart, etc




http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...-products.html


Have you considered taking it to a good mechanic? I would set aside
the dough for next time as I went. Put a fin in the kitty each
weekend, until you have a couple of hundred or whatever.

Casady

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 13:05:02 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

Put a fin in the kitty each
weekend, until you have a couple of hundred or whatever.

===

That's about what it will cost for a new carburetor which is the best
and easiest solution to the idle problem. The cooling issue is
something else however.

No way, no mechanic. I am doing this myself.

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

But I bought the impeller kits today for both engines and will try that
first.

Then take the carb off and clean it and put it back together again.

Any tips on those idle screws? What is the secret to not screwing them up?
Iwas going to turn til tight and count the turns and mark where it is
exactly now.

thnx






"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 13:05:02 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

Put a fin in the kitty each
weekend, until you have a couple of hundred or whatever.

===

That's about what it will cost for a new carburetor which is the best
and easiest solution to the idle problem. The cooling issue is
something else however.

On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 20:37:14 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

===

I understand all of that but you need to know that cleaning and
rebuilding small carburetors is not always successful. That's why
professional mechanics will usually just replace it with a new one.
It's a guaranteed cure and the time requirement is known in advance.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 20:37:14 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's
faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

===

I understand all of that but you need to know that cleaning and
rebuilding small carburetors is not always successful. That's why
professional mechanics will usually just replace it with a new one.
It's a guaranteed cure and the time requirement is known in advance.




Are you aware of the price of a new carburetor for a small outboard these
days? Probably two or three hundred bucks.

They most certainly are NOT a throwaway item just because some mechanic is
not skilled enough to know how to clean the offending parts. Any decent
home mechanic will have no trouble cleaning the crud out of clogged jets.
They are visible and accessible. No special tools required. In most carbs
I've cleaned all it takes is a couple of screwdrivers and a bristle pulled
from a wire brush. The clogged orifices will be easily accessible.


Wilbur Hubbard

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 20:37:14 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's
faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

===

I understand all of that but you need to know that cleaning and
rebuilding small carburetors is not always successful. That's why
professional mechanics will usually just replace it with a new one.
It's a guaranteed cure and the time requirement is known in advance.




WRONG!

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Me...9A)/parts.html

Just like I said two or three hundred bucks for such a carburetor. Too
expensive just to replace because a mechanic is either too stupid or lazy
to clean the crud out of the orifices.

It takes all of one half hour to clean the crud out. Even if the shop
labor is 80 bucks an hour that's 40 bucks vs. 300 bucks.

Wilbur Hubbard

Yes, I think I am going to tackle it. I can clean it. I have watched it on
utube dozen times now so as long as staying focused and putting everything
back together properly. I also was concerned about the settings on the carb
when putting them back. Those idle screws need to be thought out as well and
other than that it looks pretty straight forward. I have gotten quotes from
marina machanics who would love to do this and they are around the 250 mark
plus taxes. So you are taking a risk with them sometimes so buying the new
carb outright is about the same price so I would have to go that direction
before having the marina do it. I will do it myself. After I do both
impellers. I will let you know how I do, but some far less important things
have come up and must get them done first.
thnx




"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2012 20:37:14 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

First time for everything, besides, I just love the look on mechanic's
faces
when bringing a pile of something and asking them to help put it back
together.

===

I understand all of that but you need to know that cleaning and
rebuilding small carburetors is not always successful. That's why
professional mechanics will usually just replace it with a new one.
It's a guaranteed cure and the time requirement is known in advance.




WRONG!

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Me...9A)/parts.html

Just like I said two or three hundred bucks for such a carburetor. Too
expensive just to replace because a mechanic is either too stupid or lazy
to clean the crud out of the orifices.

It takes all of one half hour to clean the crud out. Even if the shop
labor is 80 bucks an hour that's 40 bucks vs. 300 bucks.

Wilbur Hubbard

On Thu, 28 Jun 2012 07:43:55 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Yes, I think I am going to tackle it. I can clean it. I have watched it on
utube dozen times now so as long as staying focused and putting everything
back together properly. I also was concerned about the settings on the carb
when putting them back. Those idle screws need to be thought out as well and
other than that it looks pretty straight forward. I have gotten quotes from
marina machanics who would love to do this and they are around the 250 mark
plus taxes. So you are taking a risk with them sometimes so buying the new
carb outright is about the same price so I would have to go that direction
before having the marina do it. I will do it myself. After I do both
impellers. I will let you know how I do, but some far less important things
have come up and must get them done first.
thnx


None of the adjustments are rocket science. Just screw them closed,
counting the turns. then write down the number somewhere where yu'all
will remember it.

Of course, you could buy a manual, where someone else had screwed the
adjustment closed and written the number down :-)

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall. But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas





"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 28 Jun 2012 07:43:55 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Yes, I think I am going to tackle it. I can clean it. I have watched it on
utube dozen times now so as long as staying focused and putting everything
back together properly. I also was concerned about the settings on the
carb
when putting them back. Those idle screws need to be thought out as well
and
other than that it looks pretty straight forward. I have gotten quotes
from
marina machanics who would love to do this and they are around the 250
mark
plus taxes. So you are taking a risk with them sometimes so buying the new
carb outright is about the same price so I would have to go that direction
before having the marina do it. I will do it myself. After I do both
impellers. I will let you know how I do, but some far less important
things
have come up and must get them done first.
thnx


None of the adjustments are rocket science. Just screw them closed,
counting the turns. then write down the number somewhere where yu'all
will remember it.

Of course, you could buy a manual, where someone else had screwed the
adjustment closed and written the number down :-)