Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably 99%
trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this year
it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at higher
RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke I
can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have new
hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the front,
maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with the
ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that high
test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water only
and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this year
just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly.
Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably
99%
trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this
year
it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at
higher
RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke
I
can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have
new
hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the
front,
maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with
the
ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that
high
test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water
only
and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this
year
just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly.
Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx





That's easy. The carburetor has gotten some water or shellac or other crud
from old fuel sitting in the float bowl from the last time you used it.

You must remove the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Then you need to
clean any scum, water and other residue from the float bowl and from the
jets (orifices) you can see and/or remove. A bristle pulled from a wire
brush is often an efficient way to clean the crud out of the small
orifices. You probably have a low-speed orifice clogged as it won't idle
but chances are ALL the orifices have some degree of crud in them. Best to
clean them all thoroughly while you have it apart.

Wilbur Hubbard

Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom of
the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via squeezing)
the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it requires the carb
to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my rototiller and was successful,
I can do it , but took a long time. Looks compacted in there. Do you think
the fuel with today's alcohol caused anything? I found a station that sells
zero alcohol in their fuel but that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has
the alcohol in their fuel. I was worried it was that causing some problem
maybe a seal or neoprene seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the carb.
Any more advice is appreciated.






"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably 99%
trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this
year
it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at
higher
RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke
I
can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have
new
hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the
front,
maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with
the
ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that
high
test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water
only
and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this
year
just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly.
Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx





That's easy. The carburetor has gotten some water or shellac or other crud
from old fuel sitting in the float bowl from the last time you used it.

You must remove the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Then you need to
clean any scum, water and other residue from the float bowl and from the
jets (orifices) you can see and/or remove. A bristle pulled from a wire
brush is often an efficient way to clean the crud out of the small
orifices. You probably have a low-speed orifice clogged as it won't idle
but chances are ALL the orifices have some degree of crud in them. Best to
clean them all thoroughly while you have it apart.

Wilbur Hubbard

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom
of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via
squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it
requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my
rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks
compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused
anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but
that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel.
I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene
seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the
carb. Any more advice is appreciated.


Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water
in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled water.

It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel
seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would
stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like
material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil
(SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that
keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf
life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know
I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel
hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism
until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the
venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets
clean.

Wilbur Hubbard

Ok,
Thanks Wilbur, your explaination is appreciated.

I will pay closer attention to my fuels.

Now I will focus on cleaning this carburater.

It is a big difference in performacne in only a short storage season. While
our winter wasn't that bad or long and I always use the high test I am
shocked that the gas gummed up that quickly.

I will begin tackling this carb and cleaning it.

thanks again




"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom of
the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via
squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it
requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my
rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks
compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused
anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but
that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel.
I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene
seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the
carb. Any more advice is appreciated.


Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water
in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled water.

It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel
seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would
stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like
material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil
(SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that
keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf
life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know
I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel
hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism
until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the
venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets
clean.

Wilbur Hubbard

Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb off
and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder if I
could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a small tank
and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and spray some
carb cleaner into the carb.

What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a
short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine
might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in
there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not
to mention all the mechinism.

Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that please?
In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to the store
to get.

Any suggestions or comments on this plan?

Thanks much for your help.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Ok,
Thanks Wilbur, your explaination is appreciated.

I will pay closer attention to my fuels.

Now I will focus on cleaning this carburater.

It is a big difference in performacne in only a short storage season.
While our winter wasn't that bad or long and I always use the high test I
am shocked that the gas gummed up that quickly.

I will begin tackling this carb and cleaning it.

thanks again




"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom
of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via
squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it
requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my
rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks
compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused
anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but
that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel.
I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene
seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the
carb. Any more advice is appreciated.


Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water
in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled
water.

It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel
seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would
stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like
material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil
(SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that
keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf
life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know
I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel
hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism
until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the
venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets
clean.

Wilbur Hubbard

Hi again
If you can comment on one more issue I forgot to mention. I am truly
thankful.

The OMC plastic gas tank (5gal) I have has a guage on it. Just plain guage
E - 1/2- F style, not round, just glass face with four screws holding the
guage onto the tank with a gasket. Now, this started leaking (at the gasket)
about 2 years ago, now after I filled it up with fuel from Sonoco High Test
with Alcohol (10%) I think and both that gasket kept leaking and the face
glass holding the guage was leaking and the little piece of glass actually
came out.

So I am wondering about the alcohol in the fuel. Something caused it to leak
and I think it is the alcohol, and I am thinking there may be damage in the
fuel pump system or somewhere along the line there somewhere.

Am I worrying for nothing? Is it coincidence? Is there any relation?

Thanks for any tips.






"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb
off and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder
if I could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a
small tank and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and
spray some carb cleaner into the carb.

What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a
short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine
might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in
there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not
to mention all the mechinism.

Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that
please? In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to
the store to get.

Any suggestions or comments on this plan?

Thanks much for your help.





"Tom" wrote in message
...
Ok,
Thanks Wilbur, your explaination is appreciated.

I will pay closer attention to my fuels.

Now I will focus on cleaning this carburater.

It is a big difference in performacne in only a short storage season.
While our winter wasn't that bad or long and I always use the high test I
am shocked that the gas gummed up that quickly.

I will begin tackling this carb and cleaning it.

thanks again




"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
anews.com...
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom
of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via
squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it
requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my
rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time.
Looks compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol
caused anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their
fuel but that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in
their fuel. I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal
or neoprene seal was eaten.
Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the
carb. Any more advice is appreciated.


Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water
in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled
water.

It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel
seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would
stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge
like material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called
Sta-bil (SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months
that keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short
shelf life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if
I know I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing
the fuel hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve
mechanism until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered
empty by the venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will
keep the jets clean.

Wilbur Hubbard

Tom,


I think that Wilbur's advice to give the carb a good cleaning is good.
From your description of tight space around the carb, I suspect that you'll
need to dismount the carb to do this. You can spray carb cleaner around ,
maybe it will work.
Many of the posters here live in the US and won't be able to advise you
on the composition of gas in your province. Ask some locals.

Dave M.

Tried the Sea Foam for a couple days, really hard to keep that engine
running. Runs in high idle but get lower and wants to stall. Choke stops the
stall but keeping it in High idle is worring me too much. And now looks like
the impeller as I am watching the water outlet closely but tonight it wasn't
working and then steam was venting out so I stopped. I am trying to run as
much of that SeaFoam through as I can. I put about 20% of the can into a
2.5gal can mixed 50:1 with fresh high test with no alcohol.

Looks like going to have to try taking off the carb and cleaning it out.
Shouldn't be a problem, it has run nice for near 10 years as trolling motor
and never missed a beat and just this season has failed. So must go to the
west marine near by get the impeller kit .

Is there a carb kit or anything else I would need to do a 10 year service?
Thnx,,




"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 Jun 2012 18:03:29 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb
off
and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder if I
could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a small
tank
and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and spray some
carb cleaner into the carb.

What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a
short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine
might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in
there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not
to mention all the mechinism.

Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that
please?
In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to the
store
to get.

Any suggestions or comments on this plan?

Thanks much for your help.



You might try this first and once you're set, use it once in a while.

It's the gold standard for small engines.

Regular - Sea Foam - it's at auto stores, Walmart, etc




http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...-products.html

"Tom" wrote in message
...
And now looks like
the impeller as I am watching the water outlet closely but tonight it
wasn't working and then steam was venting out so I stopped




Just steam coming out is a definite sign of cooling difficulties. Good
thing to stop!

L8R

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