I never thought of guitar string but I took apart some copper cable strands
and had one lenghth of copper that was about 1/8" or 1/16" thick, was pretty
good and I figured the copper wouldn't scratch anything being soft and it
did clean out that crud that was clogging those orrifices, plus I had a can
of carb spray and little pig air compressor that starts every single time it
is used.

The kit costs about 25 bucks and had all the gaskets including the float, I
am glad I got the kit with the float as you guys suggested because the old
float (15 years old) was very deterioriated and broken and broke more when I
took it out. what should have taken one hour as someone here suggested and
is probably right took me about 3 to 3.5 hours because it was first time and
I took my time and cleaned it very well and greased things in there that I
couldn't grease when that housing is all on it. I had to take the pull cable
housing off, breather box etc etc so lots came off and went back on and for
first time it was good.

I noticed that the idle screws that some suggest 1.5 turns, mine was already
at 4.25 and I tried what you guys suggested at 1.5-2 and the motor will stop
anywhere else but around that 4.25 spot. I will wait until I go fishing and
play with it again and see where it likes to stay but now it is at the 4.25
spot and running or idling nice.

Thanks for the tips guys





"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:13:38 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Tom" wrote in message
...
Thanks Bruce


Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

That's the ticket. That's the starting point. That will get you up and
running. Lightly bottom the screw then back it out one and a half turns.
When the motor warms up you can fiddle with it while the engine is idling
in gear to make it as smooth as possible.

With what you just said it appears that only the low speed jet is clogged.
That's the one where a bristle pulled from a wire brush and used to clear
the orifice will do the job nicely. No need to do much more than remove
the float bowl and locate the low speed orifice and use the bristle to
unclog it.

Wilbur Hubbard


If you happen to play guitar or know someone who does, the strings are
ideal. Just be sure not to use a big one.

On Sun, 22 Jul 2012 10:41:13 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and seeing
if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the kit that
i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back on that I
took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming out
from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet less
powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back connection
??

Thanks again


You really should solve the problem while it is sitting in the
driveway. A lot easier then solving them when out on the water.

(you can drop wrenches while you are in the driveway :-)
Cheers,
Bruce

Ok, then that means there should be no water coming from that area at all.

I think I will have to replace the impeller housing with the old one or
original one as it was different and looked better. And I suppose it didn't
leak before.

Thanks, looks like another morning project but I am getting faster and
better at taking that apart.






"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Jul 2012 10:41:13 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and
seeing
if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the kit
that
i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back on that I
took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming out
from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet less
powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back connection
??

Thanks again


You really should solve the problem while it is sitting in the
driveway. A lot easier then solving them when out on the water.

(you can drop wrenches while you are in the driveway :-)
Cheers,
Bruce

Yes, that is normal to have a small amount of water coming out of that
space. A small amount. The first time there it was gushing out, that wasn't
normal, however after researching it more it is common to have a small
amount of water trickling out of that space.







"Tom" wrote in message
...
Ok, then that means there should be no water coming from that area at all.

I think I will have to replace the impeller housing with the old one or
original one as it was different and looked better. And I suppose it
didn't leak before.

Thanks, looks like another morning project but I am getting faster and
better at taking that apart.






"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Jul 2012 10:41:13 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks for the words of encouragement,, fact is there is no day job as of
lately so I am happy to do this on my own.

So looks like this morning's job is dropping that lower end again and
seeing
if there is something missing. There were a few extra parts in the kit
that
i have for the impeller change , i thought I put every part back on that
I
took off that was available to switch.

I think when putting it back together the tube that goes into the rubber
grommet thing there that is on the top of impeller housing might not have
completely went into that tube thing. I can only think that is the issue.

Or, I can go drop the boat in the river and see if it pees out much more
powerful,,, then everything is correct. This is my prediciment. I think
everything went back together properly, yet never noticed water coming
out
from that space before, and never ran the engine on muffs in the
driveway.

Would running the engine on muffs make the pee hole water tube outlet
less
powerful?

Or should it be exactly the same on water on muffs on that back
connection
??

Thanks again


You really should solve the problem while it is sitting in the
driveway. A lot easier then solving them when out on the water.

(you can drop wrenches while you are in the driveway :-)
Cheers,
Bruce

On Sun, 22 Jul 2012 19:18:12 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

The kit costs about 25 bucks and had all the gaskets including the float, I
am glad I got the kit with the float as you guys suggested because the old
float (15 years old) was very deterioriated and broken and broke more when I
took it out. what should have taken one hour as someone here suggested and
is probably right took me about 3 to 3.5 hours

===

That's why the pros find it more cost effective to replace the whole
carb. Customers do not wan't to pay for three hours of labor to
replace a $100 part.