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#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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9.9hp outboard question ?
Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably 99%
trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this year it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at higher RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke I can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have new hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the front, maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with the ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that high test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water only and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this year just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly. Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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9.9hp outboard question ?
"Tom" wrote in message
... Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably 99% trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this year it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at higher RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke I can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have new hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the front, maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with the ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that high test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water only and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this year just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly. Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx That's easy. The carburetor has gotten some water or shellac or other crud from old fuel sitting in the float bowl from the last time you used it. You must remove the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Then you need to clean any scum, water and other residue from the float bowl and from the jets (orifices) you can see and/or remove. A bristle pulled from a wire brush is often an efficient way to clean the crud out of the small orifices. You probably have a low-speed orifice clogged as it won't idle but chances are ALL the orifices have some degree of crud in them. Best to clean them all thoroughly while you have it apart. Wilbur Hubbard |
#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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9.9hp outboard question ?
Hi
Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel. I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene seal was eaten. Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the carb. Any more advice is appreciated. "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message anews.com... "Tom" wrote in message ... Hi, I have the 9.9 OMC use as trolling more than high speed, probably 99% trolling 1% higher speed and it works fantastic for years and now this year it just isn't idling. It is starting with help of choke and runs at higher RPM then when try to idle or lower RPM it stalls out. If I hit the choke I can stop the stall but same situation happens. I changed the fuel, have new hose now, new plugs and engine is newer model with gear shift in the front, maybe about 12 years old. I may have ran a few tanks of high test with the ethenol or methonal or alcohol in it that the Sonoco sells. I put that high test in it last couple years. Northern Ontario and runs in fresh water only and seasonal. Funny thing is it worked fantastic last year and now this year just wont idle, our winter wasn't that bad, I storred it correctly. Any suggestions or recommendations to try? thnx That's easy. The carburetor has gotten some water or shellac or other crud from old fuel sitting in the float bowl from the last time you used it. You must remove the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Then you need to clean any scum, water and other residue from the float bowl and from the jets (orifices) you can see and/or remove. A bristle pulled from a wire brush is often an efficient way to clean the crud out of the small orifices. You probably have a low-speed orifice clogged as it won't idle but chances are ALL the orifices have some degree of crud in them. Best to clean them all thoroughly while you have it apart. Wilbur Hubbard |
#4
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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9.9hp outboard question ?
"Tom" wrote in message
... Hi Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel. I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene seal was eaten. Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the carb. Any more advice is appreciated. Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled water. It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil (SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets clean. Wilbur Hubbard |
#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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9.9hp outboard question ?
Ok,
Thanks Wilbur, your explaination is appreciated. I will pay closer attention to my fuels. Now I will focus on cleaning this carburater. It is a big difference in performacne in only a short storage season. While our winter wasn't that bad or long and I always use the high test I am shocked that the gas gummed up that quickly. I will begin tackling this carb and cleaning it. thanks again "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message anews.com... "Tom" wrote in message ... Hi Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel. I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene seal was eaten. Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the carb. Any more advice is appreciated. Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled water. It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil (SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets clean. Wilbur Hubbard |
#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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9.9hp outboard question ?
Hi
When you say "Manual Clean" you obviously meant I had to take that carb off and clean it within. After seeing a bunch of utube cleanings I wonder if I could get away with a cleaning with carb cleaner. I can set up a small tank and run it with 50-1 and carb cleaner for about 10 minutes, and spray some carb cleaner into the carb. What you recommend is obviously the proper way but what do you say about a short cut or saving me all the time and removal of the carb. This engine might be newer than I suggested and it is pretty compacted and tight in there. I figure there are 5 things I must take out to get at the carb, not to mention all the mechinism. Are solvent cleaning or cleaners any good? Could you comment on that please? In Ontario I am not sure what cleaner is available but I can go to the store to get. Any suggestions or comments on this plan? Thanks much for your help. "Tom" wrote in message ... Ok, Thanks Wilbur, your explaination is appreciated. I will pay closer attention to my fuels. Now I will focus on cleaning this carburater. It is a big difference in performacne in only a short storage season. While our winter wasn't that bad or long and I always use the high test I am shocked that the gas gummed up that quickly. I will begin tackling this carb and cleaning it. thanks again "Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message anews.com... "Tom" wrote in message ... Hi Thank you for the reply. I see there was a bleeder screw at the bottom of the bowl of the carb, I opened that up and was able to push (via squeezing) the bulb so I see the fuel coming out. You still think it requires the carb to be removed and cleaned out? I did it to my rototiller and was successful, I can do it , but took a long time. Looks compacted in there. Do you think the fuel with today's alcohol caused anything? I found a station that sells zero alcohol in their fuel but that wasn't easy, it seems everyone today has the alcohol in their fuel. I was worried it was that causing some problem maybe a seal or neoprene seal was eaten. Thanks for the advice, looks like this weekend is booked cleaning the carb. Any more advice is appreciated. Most likely it will need a manual cleaning unless it was just some water in the float bowl. What you did should have flushed out any settled water. It's not necessarily the alcohol that's the problem but rather the fuel seems to 'go stale' rather fast these days. It used to be gasoline would stay usable for years. But now, it goes bad - i.e. turns to a sludge like material that clogs small orifices. They make a product called Sta-bil (SP?) that you can add to fuel before storing a motor for months that keeps it viable. But raw fuel just seems to have a way too short shelf life anymore. I always run my motor until the float bowl is dry if I know I won't be using it for even a week or two. This means removing the fuel hose and running it while pressing the built in Shrader valve mechanism until the fuel pump pumps air and the float bowl is rendered empty by the venturi action of the carburetor. A dry float bowl will keep the jets clean. Wilbur Hubbard |
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