"Tom" wrote in message
...
Thanks Bruce


Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

That's the ticket. That's the starting point. That will get you up and
running. Lightly bottom the screw then back it out one and a half turns.
When the motor warms up you can fiddle with it while the engine is idling
in gear to make it as smooth as possible.

With what you just said it appears that only the low speed jet is clogged.
That's the one where a bristle pulled from a wire brush and used to clear
the orifice will do the job nicely. No need to do much more than remove
the float bowl and locate the low speed orifice and use the bristle to
unclog it.

Wilbur Hubbard

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall. But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.

On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 07:20:26 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall. But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.


More to the above. A mate who services most of the outboards in the
Marina casually mentioned a 9.9 HP O.B. he was servicing. I asked him
what sort of carburetor it had on it and he said that it was just a
simple one - no hidden traps or problems and wondered that "the guy"
had been so long at taking his apart and cleaning it :-)

Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair kit
to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing float.
Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all talk about
the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in these
engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in their fuel
and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to prevent gumming
and these issues.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in there,
is that worse?

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to do
my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and that was
just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean that tank
and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it started stalling
again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s






"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 07:20:26 +0700, Bruce
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:02:57 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Thanks Bruce

I took the motor for a spin on the weekend, thought it would clear the
clog
and I ran some SeaFoam through it but it did nothing to improve the lower
idle. Higher speed the motor didn't miss a beat, but slowing the throttle
down it wanted to stall and pulling the choke was stopping the stall. But
nothing corrected the issue. Looks like I will have to remove and clean
the
carb.

Is there any procedure for setting those idle screws? Other than where
they
are now, I would hope they are in the right spot.

Anyone have any ideas where those screws should be? I can do what you
suggest Bruce and count the turns and put back in same spot, but what if
that spot is wrong spot?

Some utube videos say tighten the screw then come back 1.5 turns.

Thanks for the ideas


Idle speed or mixture is not really that important an adjustment as it
is effective only in the idle range. If you had no idea at all you
could just get the engine running and holding the RPM above the idle
range make an adjustment. Retard the throttle until the RPM falls into
the idle range and see whether the engine runs smoothly. If it doesn't
try a different adjustment, either open a bit or closed a bit. The
Idle Speed do the same. Get it to run. Make a preliminary adjustment
and see how it goes, adjust to taste :-)

If you have some doubt about the present adjustment why not change it?
A quarter - half a turn in either direction. See how it goes. You can
always return to the original setting.

It is not like the adjustment is some secret setting. Either the
engine will run smoother, or not as smooth (smooth is good) and almost
anyone should be able to figure out is it better or worse.


More to the above. A mate who services most of the outboards in the
Marina casually mentioned a 9.9 HP O.B. he was servicing. I asked him
what sort of carburetor it had on it and he said that it was just a
simple one - no hidden traps or problems and wondered that "the guy"
had been so long at taking his apart and cleaning it :-)

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 08:19:10 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Should these outboards be runned dry after using?

======


That is the best way to prevent carburetor problems, plus some
stabilizer in the fuel to minimize gumming in the tank.

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 08:19:10 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair kit
to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing float.
Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all talk about
the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in these
engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in their fuel
and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to prevent gumming
and these issues.

I would be a septic when it comes to talk about the "damage" that
fuels do to the internal bits of an engine. Neither the chemist that
formulates the fuel not the engineer that designed the engine are
blithering idiots. It is unlikely that either will design items that
will significantly damage the other.

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels exhibited on
you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in there,
is that worse?


The usual practice on a yacht tender when the motor is to be hung on
the stern rail for a while is to run the engine dry of fuel.

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to do
my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and that was
just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean that tank
and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it started stalling
again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s

"Bruce" wrote in message
...

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels
exhibited
on you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

What are you saying? That they are a little too advanced
for you, Bruce?


Wilbur Hubbard

On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 10:12:59 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels
exhibited
on you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

What are you saying? That they are a little too advanced
for you, Bruce?


Wilbur Hubbard


No Willie-boy, the statement that they appear sub-8th grade level to
me indicates that I view them as having a rather low level of
intellectually content.

Why, do you have problems understanding them?

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 10:12:59 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
. ..

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels
exhibited
on you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

What are you saying? That they are a little too
advanced
for you, Bruce?


Wilbur Hubbard


No Willie-boy, the statement that they appear sub-8th
grade level to
me indicates that I view them as having a rather low
level of
intellectually content.

Why, do you have problems understanding them?



I don't view them at all as they are beneath me.

In my younger years I worked for eight years as a
motorcycle mechanic in a high volume dealership/shop
working on all makes and models and, after that, for
seven years as a Technical Advisor for Suzuki
Motorcycles. I'm a more accomplished and knowledgeable
small engine mechanic than anybody in this group, by a
long long long shot.

Carburetors, particular Japanese brands, (Mikuni,
Keihin) I've even taught mechanic's classes on them.
They are totally adjustable and incorporate separate,
fully adjustable/replaceable idle/low speed jets, mid
range jets (needle jet and jet needles) and high speed
(main) jets. Due to the very small diameter of the low
speed jets, clogging is not a rare occurrence at all.
The symptoms of a clog are very evident. It usually
takes all of ten minutes to do away with a clog once the
carburetor is removed from the engine.

Wilbur Hubbard

On Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:03:45 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 6 Jul 2012 10:12:59 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote in message
...

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels
exhibited
on you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

What are you saying? That they are a little too
advanced
for you, Bruce?


Wilbur Hubbard


No Willie-boy, the statement that they appear sub-8th
grade level to
me indicates that I view them as having a rather low
level of
intellectually content.

Why, do you have problems understanding them?



I don't view them at all as they are beneath me.

In my younger years I worked for eight years as a
motorcycle mechanic in a high volume dealership/shop
working on all makes and models and, after that, for
seven years as a Technical Advisor for Suzuki
Motorcycles. I'm a more accomplished and knowledgeable
small engine mechanic than anybody in this group, by a
long long long shot.

Carburetors, particular Japanese brands, (Mikuni,
Keihin) I've even taught mechanic's classes on them.
They are totally adjustable and incorporate separate,
fully adjustable/replaceable idle/low speed jets, mid
range jets (needle jet and jet needles) and high speed
(main) jets. Due to the very small diameter of the low
speed jets, clogging is not a rare occurrence at all.
The symptoms of a clog are very evident. It usually
takes all of ten minutes to do away with a clog once the
carburetor is removed from the engine.

Wilbur Hubbard

Amazing!

In addition to your imagined qualifications as a cruising yachtsman
you now add that of a motorcycle mechanic and if I remember correctly
you are also a bicycle racer and career thief (remembering the battery
and brandy thefts).

What is next? Space capsule captain? Long distance swimmer? Arctic
Explorer?

Or only degeneration yet further into Alzheimer's?