On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 08:19:10 -0400, "Tom" wrote:

Hi
Thanks gentlemen for your advice. I am waiting now for the carb repair kit
to come in. It costs about 24 dollars for complete kit containing float.
Watching a few u-tubes on mechanics doing carb cleaning they all talk about
the damage today's alcohol additives does to these components.

I will certainly be paying much closer attention to the fuels I use in these
engines. I have found some gas stations that have no alcohol in their fuel
and will start adding stableizer to the fuel from now on to prevent gumming
and these issues.

I would be a septic when it comes to talk about the "damage" that
fuels do to the internal bits of an engine. Neither the chemist that
formulates the fuel not the engineer that designed the engine are
blithering idiots. It is unlikely that either will design items that
will significantly damage the other.

I might comment that the mean intelligence levels exhibited on
you-tube seems to be in the sub-8th grade levels.

Should these outboards be runned dry after using? Is leaving fuel in the
carbs good idea (stablized) or should run dry then that leaves air in there,
is that worse?


The usual practice on a yacht tender when the motor is to be hung on
the stern rail for a while is to run the engine dry of fuel.

Thanks again gentlemen for the tips, I will let you know how I managed to do
my second carb servicing (first one was my 70 old rotto tiller) and that was
just a take it off, clean it, flush it, rinse it, soak it, clean that tank
and it started first pull and ran like a dream (until it started stalling
again but now I leave the tank full and runs good).

If it aint one thing it is always another,

thanks again

73s