"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Since it is harder to change headsails with a roller rig, I've found that
sail plan and size is more important than I've heard discussed.

My E32 came with big 150% Genoa on the theory that it would do everything.
The problem was that, when rolled up to the size appropriate for the
typical strong wind, it lost too much shape and had too much bulk rolled
on the head stay for the boat to go to windward well. I therefore had to
carry a working jib in case I was ever faced with a long beat to windward
and go through the whole swapping routine. Changing headsails on a roller
rig is harder not just because of the foil set up but because a "do
everything" roller Genoa has to be of heavier cloth to stand up to the
strains when reefed and the rolling. Add luff foam and leach sun cover
and It makes for a big bulky sail bag and hard work bagging on the
foredeck.

I had my new headsail built last winter cut to 135% size with a very high
clew. The latter feature makes sailing in congested waters vastly more
enjoyable and safer at a performance penalty I would only notice in a race
with an identical boat. The area reduction means that the sail will still
have decent shape when reefed down to size for 20 - 25 knot winds. I
really haven't noticed any performance difference with the full sail plan
that I can tie to the reduction in overlap.

I no longer carry the working jib although I will put it back on board for
any long trips that might involved long beats in 25 knot plus winds. I
used to change jibs a couple times a month as different weather systems
went through but, no more.

The E32 is a bit on the tender side so these sizes are not a guide to all
boats. If you are ordering a new roller headsail, figure out the jib size
for winds in the low 20's and tell your sailmaker to make the full size
such that you will still have decent shape when rolled down that amount.

My boat came with a nearly new Profurl system which has been entirely
satisfactory and easy to use. The foil cames with two grooves so
theoretically you can hoist one sail before you lower the other as I have
several extra halliards. This is fine if you have a full crew for racing but
I sail with just my wife for crew and all halliards are led back to the
cockpit so there is a bit too much for two to do when changing headsails
even though we have an excellent Simrad pilot which counts as a third member
of crew on board.
In my previous boat I have had my fill of being well offshore in a storm,
trying to unhank a foresail , get it down the fore hatch instead of
overboard and then trying to hank on a storm jib, so for me the roller is
the way to go..
All the foresails that came with the boat from 150% mylar genny down to the
storm jib have been fitted with bolt 'ropes' that fit the foils so even
changing to the storm jib would be a hassle and involve visiting the
foredeck.
.. Luckily, in addition to all the racing sails I have a nearly new Mack
130% foresail which was built specifically for furling and sets beautifully
however much it is furled so it is the only foresail I use.

On Sat, 09 Aug 2008 07:55:06 -0400, wrote:

like the header sez...

I have a Harken, and it has been completely reliable and trouble-free
for over 10 years.

The Harken furler has consistently ranked near the top of tests and
surveys that I have seen. I'd recommend getting it professionally
installed by someone who knows it well.

"Roger Long" wrote in
:

If you are ordering a new roller headsail, figure out the jib size
for winds in the low 20's and tell your sailmaker to make the full
size such that you will still have decent shape when rolled down that
amount.


I'll remember all this the next time I reef the genoa by pressing the furl
button while easing the sheet on the Amel....(c;

I really got spoiled.....

On Sat, 09 Aug 2008 11:16:43 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sat, 09 Aug 2008 07:55:06 -0400, wrote:

like the header sez...

I have a Harken, and it has been completely reliable and trouble-free
for over 10 years.

The Harken furler has consistently ranked near the top of tests and
surveys that I have seen. I'd recommend getting it professionally
installed by someone who knows it well.

In the fifties Lands End sold only sailboat stuff. Rigging parts,
compasses, various blocks, some by Harken. Only clothes were foul
weather gear and lifejackets.

Casady

On Sat, 09 Aug 2008 17:42:50 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Sat, 09 Aug 2008 11:16:43 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sat, 09 Aug 2008 07:55:06 -0400, wrote:

like the header sez...

I have a Harken, and it has been completely reliable and trouble-free
for over 10 years.

The Harken furler has consistently ranked near the top of tests and
surveys that I have seen. I'd recommend getting it professionally
installed by someone who knows it well.

In the fifties Lands End sold only sailboat stuff. Rigging parts,
compasses, various blocks, some by Harken. Only clothes were foul
weather gear and lifejackets.

Didn't see any shops but there were more wrecks than you could shake a
stick at.

"mister b" wrote

in these times, he'll drop his main and roll the jib way in well below
100%...his boat still moves well to windward...so I'm confused about the
claims of poor shape/performance when rolled way in...he says it's BS and
has the empirical evidence at hand...I guess it depends on context.


Is he just moving well to windward or is he beating to reach an objective to
windward? A jib rolled way down (I think you meant 50%) will still drive
the boat to windward but it won't point very well or be as fast as with
smaller sail not rolled down as much. I could get my boat to make steady
progress to windward with the old 150% genoa rolled down to nearly that
amount but it was pretty discouraging to look at the GPS track on a long
beat.

The thing that got me thinking about the smaller, compromize Genoa I had
built was noticing how much faster the boat was to windward with the small
working jib in fresh breezes. The performance difference between the 150%
and the working jib (about a 110% overlap) even in light air and on reaches
was much less than the difference in sail area would indicate.

--
Roger Long

On 2008-08-09 21:06:04 -0400, "Roger Long" said:

The performance difference between the 150%
and the working jib (about a 110% overlap) even in light air and on reaches
was much less than the difference in sail area would indicate.

Upwind, the difference is pretty much the difference in length about a
foot or so behind the luff, where the power comes from. There's some
benefit from less drag in the smaller sail, too.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-à-Deux -- Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

On 2008-08-09 09:34:28 -0400, Gogarty said:

I also have a Harken. Came with the boat, which is now 27 years old.
Works very well most of the time except when the wind gets over 20 and
you can't blanket it behind the main. Even a flogging jib at that wind
speed is a heavy load.

Try working on straightening the lead of the furling line. It's amazing
how much drag an extra block or too-wide angle can add.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-à-Deux -- Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"mister b" wrote in message
m...
like the header sez...


I have a Schaefer on my Sabre. Had it installed professionally (along with
some other standing rigging) when I got the boat a couple of years ago. It's
been built-proof in the fairly demanding conditions here.. inshore on the SF
bay and offshore about 20 miles. I have a relatively small working jib with
a high foot.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Ernest Scribbler" wrote in message
. ..
Do downhauls count?



I had one of those on my Cal 20... worked like a charm.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com