On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:34:28 -0500, in message

"KLC Lewis" wrote:


"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 19:44:11 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

Sure there are -- but they aren't displacement hulls, either.

That gets you into a new discussion about what is a displacement hull.

I used to race on a boat called a B-29 that had a conventional lead
keel and a conventional spinnaker, a displacement hull to all
appearances. Sail area was a bit on the high side however, and on a
windy broad reach it could get onto plane and do 18 kts, about 3x hull
speed.

It strikes me that a boat that can get onto plane isn't a displacement hull,
all appearances aside. :-)

Yes that's true, if you define boats that significantly exceed 1.34
sqrt(LWL) out of the category. There are, however, lots of boats that
depend on a ballast keel for stability, that typically beat to weather
in displacement mode, and can still go through the water much more
quickly in the right conditions.

And going back to my original comment that sparked all this: The vast
majority of the sailboats I'm aware of do have a higher top speed
under sail than under power.

Ryk

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:33:24 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

My Sabre has connectors hidden inside the mast under a plate. I'm really
glad I have them, since my steaming light was intermittent and I couldn't
find the problem until I replaced the connectors. Definitely easier than
restringing wire.

Since it was the connector caused the problem, I fail to see how
fixing it was easier than leaving a good [continuous] wire alone. The
connector was the problem, not the solution. Simpler is most often
better. You may need to remove the mast, so they put a break in the
wires, at the expense of reliability. Nothing is ever free.

Casady

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 12:33:24 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

My Sabre has connectors hidden inside the mast under a plate. I'm really
glad I have them, since my steaming light was intermittent and I couldn't
find the problem until I replaced the connectors. Definitely easier than
restringing wire.

Since it was the connector caused the problem, I fail to see how
fixing it was easier than leaving a good [continuous] wire alone. The
connector was the problem, not the solution. Simpler is most often
better. You may need to remove the mast, so they put a break in the
wires, at the expense of reliability. Nothing is ever free.

Casady


Nothing is free, but it sure is easier to fix than restringing the wire.
This arrangement allows me to add instrumentation without having to pull
wire around a lot of corners for example. Given that the wiring is at least
in part from 1982, I think it's done pretty well.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 20:34:28 -0500, "KLC Lewis"
wrote:

I used to race on a boat called a B-29 that had a conventional lead
keel and a conventional spinnaker, a displacement hull to all
appearances. Sail area was a bit on the high side however, and on a
windy broad reach it could get onto plane and do 18 kts, about 3x hull
speed.

It strikes me that a boat that can get onto plane isn't a displacement hull,
all appearances aside. :-)

I understand your point but you can get almost any boat with a more or
less flat bottom to plane under the right conditions.

On Aug 29, 4:51 am, sherwindu wrote:
terry wrote:
Westerly 1970s all fiberglass 26 footer. Previous owner replaced mast
and rigging but in the process installed deck mounted connectors (good
quality marine type) for the mast wiring that allowed water to get
into a substantial wooden block buried in the deck under the mast
step. That block is further supported by a stainless steel column
that goes down to the keel.

During winter storage the water soaked wood burst the f.glass deck
around the mast step. It's now all replaced.

Now wondering best way to connect the revamped mast wiring (Approx.
seven wires plus an RG58 coax. for the top of the mast VHF whip).**

Certainly resolved to have any wiring holes and/or mounting screws
well away from the wooden block. Also maybe prefer not to have any
connectors at all?

Thats fine if you never have to lower or remove the mast. I would go for
using connectors. My Westerly Cirrus (1971) came with deck connectors.
I have had to replace these a few times over the years, but I never had the
problems you encountered. If the connector is properly seated and sealed
as a thru hull installation, you should not have any problems.

Sherwin D.





That would mean poking the bunch of wires from the mast through
something (a caulked hole or gland or ???) in the deck to be, say,
connected individually once per season to a terminal strip in the
toilet ('Head') compartment below. Pondering various alternatives.

Any advice please would be most appreciated.

BTW ** We now have all the nav. lights on the mast rather than lower
down on the hull and cabin sides of the boat. The original (previously
replaced!) stern light for example was for ever getting stepped on and
damaged. The individual cabin side port/starboard lights had long ago
been replaced by a red/green bow pulpit one that also suffered damage
and or got tangled with jib sheets etc. Any comments/advice on this
also appreciated.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks Sherwin but we HAVE had the problem and fixed it. Since there
is only one small hole near bottom of mast through which wires enter
don't feel like enlarging it to poke connectors inside hollow mast.
Although I'd like to do that.
So the choices are;
a) Two connectors (a total of some 7 wires) going to two locations
though the mast plus a VHF coax, hanging from wires and probably taped
or strapped to outside surface of mast.
b) Deck mounted connectors which in view of previous water entry into
the deck and subsequent freezing would have be a long way from mast
base in an area of f.glass only decking. Thus increased chance of
damage and foot tripping etc.
c) Run the wires without connectors through a J pipe permanently
fiberglassed into the deck presently being home made and terminnate
the wires individually on a terminal strip in the toilet compartment.
Reconnect once per year when boat goes in the water.
The total thickness of deck in vicinity of the wooden block under the
mast step is I reckon about 60mm (2 to 2.5 inches. A wooden block or
bearing plate with f.glass above and below it.
This all part of completely rewiring the whole boat. Adding an 80 to
100 amp alternator to the Volvo MD-1in place of the 8 amp starter
generator etc. Note: We'd have to run the engine for about 10 hours to
recharge a flat 60 to 70 amp.hour battery with the original only 8
amps!
Regards.

On 3 Sep 2007 12:43:02 -0500, in message

Dave wrote:

You're beyond my area of expertise here, but if the principle is that a
power driven vessel is more capable than a sailing vessel of maneuvering to
avoid collision, and the vessel in question merely needs to push the
transmission control lever forward to start the prop spinning, it certainly
wouldn't be irrational to treat the sailing vessel running its engine to
charge batteries as a power driven vessel. The generator, on the other hand,
isn't connected to the prop, so the above reasoning wouldn't apply to it.

On the other hand, a vessel flying sails, even if under power, can be
subject to all the usual requirements for sailing handling while
maneuvering. If I am reaching along with a spinnaker up in twenty
knots of breeze, then the ability to put my engine immediately into
gear does not improve my options to avoid collision.

The information communicated by the conical day shape or the steaming
light is that one is able to maneuver as a power driven vessel. A race
boat charging batteries will give a misleading signal if they indicate
they're under power.

In the case of a modest sized sailboat scarcely moving under sail,
whether with engine on or off, the common sense course is for modest
sized power traffic to avoid it and for the sailboat to make sure it
stays out of the way of larger power traffic with depth and
maneuverability issues. Changes in course and speed like putting the
engine in gear may simply confuse the situation.

Ryk

"Ryk" wrote in message
...
On 3 Sep 2007 12:43:02 -0500, in message

Dave wrote:

You're beyond my area of expertise here, but if the principle is that a
power driven vessel is more capable than a sailing vessel of maneuvering
to
avoid collision, and the vessel in question merely needs to push the
transmission control lever forward to start the prop spinning, it
certainly
wouldn't be irrational to treat the sailing vessel running its engine to
charge batteries as a power driven vessel. The generator, on the other
hand,
isn't connected to the prop, so the above reasoning wouldn't apply to it.

On the other hand, a vessel flying sails, even if under power, can be
subject to all the usual requirements for sailing handling while
maneuvering. If I am reaching along with a spinnaker up in twenty
knots of breeze, then the ability to put my engine immediately into
gear does not improve my options to avoid collision.


Actually, it would... put your engine in reverse and you'll slow down.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Tue, 4 Sep 2007 11:33:08 -0700, in message

"Capt. JG" wrote:

"Ryk" wrote in message
.. .

On the other hand, a vessel flying sails, even if under power, can be
subject to all the usual requirements for sailing handling while
maneuvering. If I am reaching along with a spinnaker up in twenty
knots of breeze, then the ability to put my engine immediately into
gear does not improve my options to avoid collision.


Actually, it would... put your engine in reverse and you'll slow down.

Given the relative size of my engine and my spinnaker, and the
tendency of a folding prop to stay folded while moving forwards, I
don't think it would do much good ;-)

Ryk

On Aug 23, 1:45 pm, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
"Armond Perretta" wrote in message

...





wrote:

Use a tricolor with an integral anchor light on the mast head and a
motoring light at the spreaders. That should be sufficient.

Bruce in Bangkok

I don't know what the rules are in Bangkok, but in the States and most
European countries the mast light (aka "steaming light") must be mounted
_above_ the other lights (red/green/stern) when under power (or for that
matter when the engine is running even when not in gear)..

This means obviously that using a masthead tricolor with a steaming light
mounted somewhere lower on the mast is in violation.

--
Good luck and good sailing.
s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat
http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare

This is not correct.

http://www.answers.com/topic/navigation-lights- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"The boat must also display a white masthead light visible for 5
miles" taken from your link however the word masthead should read
Steaming... as in the accompanying diagram.