"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
Greg/Neal/Wilbur, your spewing left below for reference:

Are you suggesting that you have water in your bilge, from the rain?

We get a few drips from the packing glands, and NOTHING inside the boat from
green water or rain...

No blisters, either...


You just haven't looked closely enough. I bet you do, indeed, have new
blisters forming.

No rain water in my bilge. I have no packing gland for salt water ingress
either. My bilge has dust bunnies and little, itty bitty, white spiders/webs
in it.

The sump in the bilge where I have my bilge pump inlet located sometimes
gets wet because the ice box drains into it. But, I don't put ice in my ice
box because it's a refrigerator. But, from time to time a can of beer or two
will spring a leak and the contents end up in the bilge sump. They make
beer cans too thin these days, IMO. But, I do keep a 12 pack of canned
beer in the vertical freezer (evaporator) as I love ice-cold beer and also
they
work as a holding plate of sorts but sometimes if they freeze solid they
break. The cooler, very sunny days cause my photovoltaics to top out
the voltage regulator at 14.5 volts so, under those conditions, the
Adler Barbour works very well.

Today, I plan to enjoy a nice, cold bottle of white zinfandel wine. I'm
celebrating some old asshole on a shabby looking Morgan named
"Moria" who has a noisy wind generator, a constantly barking dog
and a portable gas generator running day and night finally leaving the
anchorage. So obnoxious having to listen to that crap.

--
Sir Gregory

Neal/Greg/Wilbur (how's Wilbur these days? Haven't heard from him in a LONG
time...)'s left below for reference...

Not Moira?

I wonder how your reefer does with that big hole in the insulation (the
drain to the bilge).

y'know, a good thermostat would prevent that beer freezing. Make your
reefer side whatever temp you want, and make the freezer box run until you
achieve that, cycling in whatever hysteresis level points you want (ours is
32/34, but we have a spillover and fan, so the freezer is the controlled
temp, the reefer dumping its heat into that, at 8/10 cycle points).

I like my Coke (no more than one a day) and Lydia her beer (no more than 3 a
day) to be ICE cold. A circulating fan in both boxes keeps the temps
even...

I just finished epoxy-slurry filling the prior mounting holes from the old
evaporator, in prep for tomorrow's installation (presuming that the parts
arrived today as expected); pix some day (I'm so far behind in logs and pix
I'm afraid to open the file)...

L8R

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

" Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·" åke wrote in message
...
"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
Greg/Neal/Wilbur, your spewing left below for reference:

Are you suggesting that you have water in your bilge, from the rain?

We get a few drips from the packing glands, and NOTHING inside the boat
from green water or rain...

No blisters, either...


You just haven't looked closely enough. I bet you do, indeed, have new
blisters forming.

No rain water in my bilge. I have no packing gland for salt water ingress
either. My bilge has dust bunnies and little, itty bitty, white
spiders/webs
in it.

The sump in the bilge where I have my bilge pump inlet located sometimes
gets wet because the ice box drains into it. But, I don't put ice in my
ice
box because it's a refrigerator. But, from time to time a can of beer or
two
will spring a leak and the contents end up in the bilge sump. They make
beer cans too thin these days, IMO. But, I do keep a 12 pack of canned
beer in the vertical freezer (evaporator) as I love ice-cold beer and also
they
work as a holding plate of sorts but sometimes if they freeze solid they
break. The cooler, very sunny days cause my photovoltaics to top out
the voltage regulator at 14.5 volts so, under those conditions, the
Adler Barbour works very well.

Today, I plan to enjoy a nice, cold bottle of white zinfandel wine. I'm
celebrating some old asshole on a shabby looking Morgan named
"Moria" who has a noisy wind generator, a constantly barking dog
and a portable gas generator running day and night finally leaving the
anchorage. So obnoxious having to listen to that crap.

--
Sir Gregory

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Oct 2013 15:18:38 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

significant refrigeration
failure item to Dick Kollmann for dissection, and so on.

===

I once talked to Dick K regarding some refrigeration advice for our
trawler. I was contemplating the installation of two Adler-Barbour
Cold Machines, one for each of our built in fridges. He didn't think
the A-Bs would be suitable for tropical cruising but three years in
Florida later, including two 6 month cruises to the Carib, they are
still working fine. I believe they use Danfoss BD-50 compressors.
Both units were self installed and I carry everything I need to
service them in case we get stuck somewhere. Having two independant
units gives us a fair amount of redundancy however.

The replacement unit will be a Sea Frost water-enabled (nothing there yet,
but available to hook into the next time we're in the yard) DB50 Air/Water
cooled, with smart controller and thermostat (incorporating a Carel, from
the looks of it) and two 15x19 evaporator plates.

I have every confidence that this will be more than adequate to the task,
especially as I'll vent outside air to the air cooler incoming fan (venting
already in place, ironically, from a blower we used to use on the alternator
before we figured out what was causing the horrible failure rate), which
will blow it over the compressor to cool it, too. If I get the urge, I can
add water cooling to it, and PERHAPS the added amp might be recovered in
shorter run times. However, as I'll have a smart controller, and the pump
will run, regardless, if it's used, running at low speed doesn't get much of
a boost in efficiency. If it works in the tropics, I'll do a nevermind...

L8R, y'all

Skip, with family coming tomorrow and weekend

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 16:37:37 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

from a blower we used to use on the alternator
before we figured out what was causing the horrible failure rate

====

I have my own tales of alternator failures, finally resolved. Don't
think I've heard about yours. Our failures were caused by the *very*
large house bank (8 HD golf cart batts in series-parallel), which
appeared to the alternator more or less as a dead short when they were
in need of a serious recharge. The solution was a controlled series
resistance consisting of 10 ft of #4 wire which was just enough to
limit the current inrush to acceptable levels.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 16:37:37 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

from a blower we used to use on the alternator
before we figured out what was causing the horrible failure rate

====

I have my own tales of alternator failures, finally resolved. Don't
think I've heard about yours. Our failures were caused by the *very*
large house bank (8 HD golf cart batts in series-parallel), which
appeared to the alternator more or less as a dead short when they were
in need of a serious recharge. The solution was a controlled series
resistance consisting of 10 ft of #4 wire which was just enough to
limit the current inrush to acceptable levels.

Mine was a case of a 1/2" pulley on the alternator when the design was for
3/8, and not using a corrugated belt which would flex at high speeds,
dissipating heat. The mount-twiddling was a mere benefit, rather than just
solution

Went from 10 to 200 hour belt changes, and the 10s were usually catastrophic
(breakage)...

I've recently shortened the belt to get more mileage out of the adjustment,
as the belts I took off weren't worn out, just stretched out.

However, I only have 880AH, and my alternator isn't doing the work; it's
solar and wind, plus occasional application of a Honda eu2000i to the
charger.

Good workaround!

L8R

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

On Fri, 1 Nov 2013 11:30:16 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 16:37:37 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:

from a blower we used to use on the alternator
before we figured out what was causing the horrible failure rate

====

I have my own tales of alternator failures, finally resolved. Don't
think I've heard about yours. Our failures were caused by the *very*
large house bank (8 HD golf cart batts in series-parallel), which
appeared to the alternator more or less as a dead short when they were
in need of a serious recharge. The solution was a controlled series
resistance consisting of 10 ft of #4 wire which was just enough to
limit the current inrush to acceptable levels.

Mine was a case of a 1/2" pulley on the alternator when the design was for
3/8, and not using a corrugated belt which would flex at high speeds,
dissipating heat. The mount-twiddling was a mere benefit, rather than just
solution

Went from 10 to 200 hour belt changes, and the 10s were usually catastrophic
(breakage)...

I've recently shortened the belt to get more mileage out of the adjustment,
as the belts I took off weren't worn out, just stretched out.

However, I only have 880AH, and my alternator isn't doing the work; it's
solar and wind, plus occasional application of a Honda eu2000i to the
charger.

Good workaround!


===

I've had good luck with Gates "Green Stripe" belts, available at NAPA
auto parts. 200 hours is still not all that good. There must still
be another issue somewhere. Having experienced any number of belt and
alternator failure modes, I can tell you that a nice clean belt break
is preferable to a whining, squealing burn up which is throwing off
black rubber bits and smoke in the engine compartment.

Our *big* alternator is now a 320 amp Leece-Neville fire truck unit
driven by three belts. It has over 500 hours so far with no belt
changes or signs of premature wear. Even with the current limiting
resistor, the alternator causes the DD 6-71 diesel to audibly grunt
for a split second when I switch in the house bank.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...

I've had good luck with Gates "Green Stripe" belts, available at NAPA
auto parts. 200 hours is still not all that good. There must still
be another issue somewhere. Having experienced any number of belt and
alternator failure modes, I can tell you that a nice clean belt break
is preferable to a whining, squealing burn up which is throwing off
black rubber bits and smoke in the engine compartment.

Our *big* alternator is now a 320 amp Leece-Neville fire truck unit
driven by three belts. It has over 500 hours so far with no belt
changes or signs of premature wear. Even with the current limiting
resistor, the alternator causes the DD 6-71 diesel to audibly grunt
for a split second when I switch in the house bank.

Since 200 hours represents a couple of years or so, I'm not terribly worried
:{)) Our belts are Gates, too, but from NAPA and wherever we can find it;
they're toothed/cogged/scalloped on the inside, and heat, ever since, has
not been an issue.

But we DO have belt dust, a bit. Never had a squealer, though; our
alternator's only 70A and as far as I can tell, it's never challenged the
belt, particularly.

In the cases where we have to motor, it will fill the bank from wherever
we've gotten it down to - usually not less/more, depending on how you count,
than 70%, but otherwise, it's loafing. Our solar and wind do all the heavy
lifting...

L8R

Skip

--

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

When a man comes to like a sea life, he is not fit to live on land.
- Dr. Samuel Johnson

"Wayne.B" wrote:

Our *big* alternator is now a 320 amp Leece-Neville fire truck unit
driven by three belts. It has over 500 hours so far with no belt
changes or signs of premature wear. Even with the current limiting
resistor, the alternator causes the DD 6-71 diesel to audibly grunt
for a split second when I switch in the house bank.
-----------------------------------------------------
There was a time in my life when I was a Leece-Neville design
engineer.

Back in those days the large alternators (200+ Amp) designed for the
bus fleets had the AC terminals brought out to the case.

Common practice was to grab a couple of AC terminals and install a
single phase, half wave bridge across the AC which was then
connected to a DC relay with the contacts of this relay wired into the
field circuit.

SFWIW, field current was limited to 5 amps back then.

When the engine was starting, the field relay was open which basically
eliminated any alternator belt loading on the engine.

There is enough residual magnetism in the rotor & stator that when the
engine has started and up to speed, sufficient voltage is generated
to excite the relay and start charging the system.
-------------------------------------------------------
"Flying Pig" wrote:


But we DO have belt dust, a bit. Never had a squealer, though; our
alternator's only 70A and as far as I can tell, it's never
challenged the belt, particularly.
----------------------------------------------------------
You have a problem. Sooner or later it is going to bite you.

The better but not necessarily the easiest solution is to move to a
dual
belt system.

Since the alternator is not your primary recharging device, you might
consider increasing the alternator sheave diameter and staying with
one belt.

You WILL reduce the output, but by how much can only be determined
from an output curve.

Lew

"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
Neal/Greg/Wilbur (how's Wilbur these days? Haven't heard from him in a LONG
time...)'s left below for reference...

Not Moira?

I wonder how your reefer does with that big hole in the insulation (the
drain to the bilge).

There is no big hole. There is a small hole atop of which I have
placed a little slab of 1/2 styrofoam encased in a Zip Lock baggie.

y'know, a good thermostat would prevent that beer freezing. Make your
reefer side whatever temp you want, and make the freezer box run until you
achieve that, cycling in whatever hysteresis level points you want (ours is
32/34, but we have a spillover and fan, so the freezer is the controlled
temp, the reefer dumping its heat into that, at 8/10 cycle points).

Since I put the beer in the evaporator (small vertical version) even at
low thermostat settings it will eventually freeze. I'd rather opt for the
simpler solutions and for that reason I don't spend nearly as much
time as you troubleshooting failed and failing systems.

I like my Coke (no more than one a day) and Lydia her beer (no more than 3 a
day) to be ICE cold. A circulating fan in both boxes keeps
the temps even...

Me too. I like little ice crystals forming when I pop the top. My box
is small and a ciruculating fan is just something else to use
electricity and cause problems. My ice cold beer in the freezer
section also acts like a trouble-free holding plate.

I just finished epoxy-slurry filling the prior mounting holes from the old
evaporator, in prep for tomorrow's installation (presuming that the parts
arrived today as expected); pix some day (I'm so far behind in logs and pix
I'm afraid to open the file)...

You could probably have used your existing evaporator simply by
connecting it to your new evaporator.

Sir Gregory

" Sir Gregory Hall, Esq·" åke wrote in message
...
"Flying Pig" wrote in message
...
Neal/Greg/Wilbur (how's Wilbur these days? Haven't heard from him in a
LONG time...)'s left below for reference...

Not Moira?

I wonder how your reefer does with that big hole in the insulation (the
drain to the bilge).

There is no big hole. There is a small hole atop of which I have
placed a little slab of 1/2 styrofoam encased in a Zip Lock baggie.

y'know, a good thermostat would prevent that beer freezing. Make your
reefer side whatever temp you want, and make the freezer box run until you
achieve that, cycling in whatever hysteresis level points you want (ours is
32/34, but we have a spillover and fan, so the freezer is the controlled
temp, the reefer dumping its heat into that, at 8/10 cycle points).

Since I put the beer in the evaporator (small vertical version) even at
low thermostat settings it will eventually freeze. I'd rather opt for the
simpler solutions and for that reason I don't spend nearly as much
time as you troubleshooting failed and failing systems.

I like my Coke (no more than one a day) and Lydia her beer (no more than 3
a day) to be ICE cold. A circulating fan in both boxes keeps
the temps even...

Me too. I like little ice crystals forming when I pop the top. My box
is small and a ciruculating fan is just something else to use
electricity and cause problems. My ice cold beer in the freezer
section also acts like a trouble-free holding plate.

I just finished epoxy-slurry filling the prior mounting holes from the old
evaporator, in prep for tomorrow's installation (presuming that the parts
arrived today as expected); pix some day (I'm so far behind in logs and pix
I'm afraid to open the file)...

You could probably have used your existing evaporator simply by
connecting it to your new evaporator.*

* I meant new compressor