On 8/9/2017 5:03 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 16:46:22 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 8/9/2017 4:32 PM, Its Me wrote:
On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 3:59:53 PM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


Once you get to where you can see both sides of the PC board, follow the power where it enters the board and look for a fuse onboard. It may not even look like a fuse. There are auto-resetting and one-shot current limit devices. If there is one it should be very close to the wire (or header) where the power attaches. Hopefully the board isn't multi-layer.



Thanks. I'll look. This panel is supplied with battery voltage in
three different places. All three supplies are good, at least on the
terminal strip before it connects to the board. Don't know what happens
after that and without removing the PC board, I can't see how it
connects. Hopefully I won't spill a handful of membrane switch parts on
the floor. I hate working on "other people's stuff".



===

In addition to testing your incoming power connections with a digital
voltmeter, I'd also suggest using a 12 volt test light. Several times
I've been fooled by circuits with a high resistance connection which
looked fine on a DVM but dropped to zero volts with even a small load
applied.

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Good point. I'll bring my old fashioned test light as well next time I
go Easter Egging. :-)

On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 4:46:30 PM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 8/9/2017 4:32 PM, Its Me wrote:
On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 3:59:53 PM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


Once you get to where you can see both sides of the PC board, follow the power where it enters the board and look for a fuse onboard. It may not even look like a fuse. There are auto-resetting and one-shot current limit devices. If there is one it should be very close to the wire (or header) where the power attaches. Hopefully the board isn't multi-layer.



Thanks. I'll look. This panel is supplied with battery voltage in
three different places. All three supplies are good, at least on the
terminal strip before it connects to the board. Don't know what happens
after that and without removing the PC board, I can't see how it
connects. Hopefully I won't spill a handful of membrane switch parts on
the floor. I hate working on "other people's stuff".

After thinking about it a little more, here are some other thoughts:

- Many times the positive input to a circuit board in this kind of application will have a power diode in series. It's to protect the board from being hooked up backwards to battery power. Alert, bad ascii art!

+V -||- board

- The backlighting you described may not be turned on/off by the board's controller, unless one of the membrane switches is an on/off and is supposed to light the board up and give you control. A membrane switch doesn't toggle on/off on its own, and can't carry much current. It would have to activate something that likely turns on a relay that then supplies power to the lighting and controller. Or the controller chip is always powered on. Maybe a bad relay?

- The controller chip will likely not run off 12 volts. There should be a regulator somewhere that takes it down to probably 5 volts. It could be bad. Look for a three legged device, probably on a heatsink, with some capacitors around it.

- Hmmm... remove all power from the board, and then re-apply after 20-30 seconds. Maybe a re-boot is needed?

- Hopefully, the membrane switches are a "sheet" switch, so there's nothing to spill. You can hope.

In any case this will be a tough nut to crack, especially without a schematic and parts list, unless you can find an obvious smoking gun. Good luck!

On 8/9/2017 8:37 PM, Its Me wrote:
On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 4:46:30 PM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 8/9/2017 4:32 PM, Its Me wrote:
On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 3:59:53 PM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


Once you get to where you can see both sides of the PC board, follow the power where it enters the board and look for a fuse onboard. It may not even look like a fuse. There are auto-resetting and one-shot current limit devices. If there is one it should be very close to the wire (or header) where the power attaches. Hopefully the board isn't multi-layer.



Thanks. I'll look. This panel is supplied with battery voltage in
three different places. All three supplies are good, at least on the
terminal strip before it connects to the board. Don't know what happens
after that and without removing the PC board, I can't see how it
connects. Hopefully I won't spill a handful of membrane switch parts on
the floor. I hate working on "other people's stuff".

After thinking about it a little more, here are some other thoughts:

- Many times the positive input to a circuit board in this kind of application will have a power diode in series. It's to protect the board from being hooked up backwards to battery power. Alert, bad ascii art!

+V -||- board

- The backlighting you described may not be turned on/off by the board's controller, unless one of the membrane switches is an on/off and is supposed to light the board up and give you control. A membrane switch doesn't toggle on/off on its own, and can't carry much current. It would have to activate something that likely turns on a relay that then supplies power to the lighting and controller. Or the controller chip is always powered on. Maybe a bad relay?

- The controller chip will likely not run off 12 volts. There should be a regulator somewhere that takes it down to probably 5 volts. It could be bad. Look for a three legged device, probably on a heatsink, with some capacitors around it.

- Hmmm... remove all power from the board, and then re-apply after 20-30 seconds. Maybe a re-boot is needed?

- Hopefully, the membrane switches are a "sheet" switch, so there's nothing to spill. You can hope.

In any case this will be a tough nut to crack, especially without a schematic and parts list, unless you can find an obvious smoking gun. Good luck!



Good thoughts and ideas. I had thought about the possibility of a
protective diode and it's one of the reasons I'd like to take the board
completely out and check them. They are small diodes though, but it may
be all it needs.

There *is* a main power on membrane button. Obviously right now it does
nothing (doesn't turn the panel on) which made me suspicious of a diode
as you suggested since it appears 12 volts is available to the PC board.

I've tried the "alt-control-delete" thing :-) I actually disconnected
the positive leads off off both house batteries just in case the panel
power was not removed when the main battery switch is turned off. In
fact, it's one of the suggested fixes to this problem. Unfortunately,
it didn't reset or fix anything.

The owner is away right now, so I won't get to try anything for a couple
of days.

Thanks for the suggestions.



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This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 15:59:43 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


I have not been riveted to this thread but Justan may be on to
something. How complicated is the task this board accomplishes and can
it be done with a few relays? Those black automotive "ice cube" relays
are pretty robust (30a) and available just about anywhere. Sometime
old school is the way to go.

On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 9:54:44 PM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 8/9/2017 8:37 PM, Its Me wrote:
On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 4:46:30 PM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 8/9/2017 4:32 PM, Its Me wrote:
On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 3:59:53 PM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


Once you get to where you can see both sides of the PC board, follow the power where it enters the board and look for a fuse onboard. It may not even look like a fuse. There are auto-resetting and one-shot current limit devices. If there is one it should be very close to the wire (or header) where the power attaches. Hopefully the board isn't multi-layer.



Thanks. I'll look. This panel is supplied with battery voltage in
three different places. All three supplies are good, at least on the
terminal strip before it connects to the board. Don't know what happens
after that and without removing the PC board, I can't see how it
connects. Hopefully I won't spill a handful of membrane switch parts on
the floor. I hate working on "other people's stuff".

After thinking about it a little more, here are some other thoughts:

- Many times the positive input to a circuit board in this kind of application will have a power diode in series. It's to protect the board from being hooked up backwards to battery power. Alert, bad ascii art!

+V -||- board

- The backlighting you described may not be turned on/off by the board's controller, unless one of the membrane switches is an on/off and is supposed to light the board up and give you control. A membrane switch doesn't toggle on/off on its own, and can't carry much current. It would have to activate something that likely turns on a relay that then supplies power to the lighting and controller. Or the controller chip is always powered on. Maybe a bad relay?

- The controller chip will likely not run off 12 volts. There should be a regulator somewhere that takes it down to probably 5 volts. It could be bad. Look for a three legged device, probably on a heatsink, with some capacitors around it.

- Hmmm... remove all power from the board, and then re-apply after 20-30 seconds. Maybe a re-boot is needed?

- Hopefully, the membrane switches are a "sheet" switch, so there's nothing to spill. You can hope.

In any case this will be a tough nut to crack, especially without a schematic and parts list, unless you can find an obvious smoking gun. Good luck!



Good thoughts and ideas. I had thought about the possibility of a
protective diode and it's one of the reasons I'd like to take the board
completely out and check them. They are small diodes though, but it may
be all it needs.

There *is* a main power on membrane button. Obviously right now it does
nothing (doesn't turn the panel on) which made me suspicious of a diode
as you suggested since it appears 12 volts is available to the PC board.

I've tried the "alt-control-delete" thing :-) I actually disconnected
the positive leads off off both house batteries just in case the panel
power was not removed when the main battery switch is turned off. In
fact, it's one of the suggested fixes to this problem. Unfortunately,
it didn't reset or fix anything.

The owner is away right now, so I won't get to try anything for a couple
of days.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Last thought... could be that the membrane switch for power on/off is bad. It won't send the signal to "wake up".

I have that same issue with a remote ceiling fan controller right now. The fan buttons still work, but the light button quit. It's the kind with a circuit board that has two pads underneath a molded rubber sheet with conductive material on the back side of the buttons. Press the button, and the conductive rubber shorts the two pads. The conductive material has flaked off or worn away.

Again, good luck.

On 8/10/2017 1:09 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 15:59:43 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


I have not been riveted to this thread but Justan may be on to
something. How complicated is the task this board accomplishes and can
it be done with a few relays? Those black automotive "ice cube" relays
are pretty robust (30a) and available just about anywhere. Sometime
old school is the way to go.



It's doable but I really don't want to get involved with tracing a whole
bunch of unmarked wires with no diagrams to give you a clue as to where
they go and what they control. Plus, it probably won't fix the level
indicators for the fresh, grey and black water tanks.

I've learned to be a little careful about what to sign up for on other
people's equipment. Back in my Navy days I used to repair or do
convergence and gun drive adjustments old CRT type TV sets, fixed VCR's,
radios, etc. Once you touch it, you become "on call" for any future
problems or issues.

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This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

On Thu, 10 Aug 2017 08:51:11 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 8/10/2017 1:09 AM, wrote:


I have not been riveted to this thread but Justan may be on to
something. How complicated is the task this board accomplishes and can
it be done with a few relays? Those black automotive "ice cube" relays
are pretty robust (30a) and available just about anywhere. Sometime
old school is the way to go.



It's doable but I really don't want to get involved with tracing a whole
bunch of unmarked wires with no diagrams to give you a clue as to where
they go and what they control. Plus, it probably won't fix the level
indicators for the fresh, grey and black water tanks.

I've learned to be a little careful about what to sign up for on other
people's equipment. Back in my Navy days I used to repair or do
convergence and gun drive adjustments old CRT type TV sets, fixed VCR's,
radios, etc. Once you touch it, you become "on call" for any future
problems or issues.

Good point, I missed that this wasn't yours.
I think the safest bet is to just buy the card if you can prove that
will fix it. That will be a problem in they are no longer in
production but that is what Ebay is for ... assuming there is a good
one left in the world that someone wants to part with. Usually the
same things tend to fail over and over again. (engineering problem).
It allows techs to look good and sell a lot of weak parts but it hurts
the consumer. That was one of the things I did for a living, find
defective engineering and get the real problem fixed at the plant
level.

On Thu, 10 Aug 2017 08:51:11 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:

On 8/10/2017 1:09 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 15:59:43 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


I have not been riveted to this thread but Justan may be on to
something. How complicated is the task this board accomplishes and can
it be done with a few relays? Those black automotive "ice cube" relays
are pretty robust (30a) and available just about anywhere. Sometime
old school is the way to go.



It's doable but I really don't want to get involved with tracing a whole
bunch of unmarked wires with no diagrams to give you a clue as to where
they go and what they control. Plus, it probably won't fix the level
indicators for the fresh, grey and black water tanks.

I've learned to be a little careful about what to sign up for on other
people's equipment. Back in my Navy days I used to repair or do
convergence and gun drive adjustments old CRT type TV sets, fixed VCR's,
radios, etc. Once you touch it, you become "on call" for any future
problems or issues.


I was telling a friend about this issue. He asked if your friend had contacted the Recreation
Vehicle Industry Association. When I mentioned the rig was a 2013 and the company no longer made the
part, his immediate suggestion was to call RVIA and give them the story. He's been an RV'er a long
time.

RVIA - 703-620-6003

On Thu, 10 Aug 2017 07:16:30 -0600 (MDT), justan wrote:

"Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message:
On 8/10/2017 1:09 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 15:59:43 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


I have not been riveted to this thread but Justan may be on to
something. How complicated is the task this board accomplishes and can
it be done with a few relays? Those black automotive "ice cube" relays
are pretty robust (30a) and available just about anywhere. Sometime
old school is the way to go.



It's doable but I really don't want to get involved with tracing a whole
bunch of unmarked wires with no diagrams to give you a clue as to where
they go and what they control. Plus, it probably won't fix the level
indicators for the fresh, grey and black water tanks.

I've learned to be a little careful about what to sign up for on other
people's equipment. Back in my Navy days I used to repair or do
convergence and gun drive adjustments old CRT type TV sets, fixed VCR's,
radios, etc. Once you touch it, you become "on call" for any future
problems or issues.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com



The tank sensors are easier to fix than you think. Just replace
the whole setup. Newer ones don't even drill into the tank. The
sensors are just glued to the outside of the tank. This is one
item that is pretty necessary to have working.

Yeah, but....you have to get to the side of the tank, which means dropping the underbelly, and wire
the things into the display. Or do they have their own display. We've not used ours since the rig
was new. Just plan on dumping every four days or so. If there is not sewer and we're going to be
there a while we carry a 'blue boy' along.

On Tue, 15 Aug 2017 13:22:03 -0400, John H
wrote:



We've not used ours since the rig
was new. Just plan on dumping every four days or so. If there is not sewer and we're going to be
there a while we carry a 'blue boy' along.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gd_qt_ijuSs