On Thu, 10 Aug 2017 07:16:30 -0600 (MDT), justan wrote:

"Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message:
On 8/10/2017 1:09 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 15:59:43 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 8/9/2017 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:50:30 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

I think the problem is on the PC board in the control unit. It's
supposed to turn on, light up blue and display all the membrane switch
areas and labels. It doesn't. Has 12 volts but doesn't turn on,


That is the problem with most new things. Everything is on a single
board that may only cost a few bucks to produce in some 3d world
country but sells for hundreds of dollars. They seldom/never provide
any documentation about what is on that board. With a little knowledge
of what usually goes wrong, you might get lucky and find a bad part
you can replace on the board but they are bad about using parts with
no helpful markings on them.
I would start with the most rudimentary thing that is not working and
trace back to the 12v ... like those back lights. It may just be a
diode or regulator on the front end. (the actual controls may be 5v)
Are there any burned traces? Parts that look like they got hot?
I usually try to draw out what I see going along the traces and hope
it is not a multilayered board.
I got into this trying to fix gate controller boards. Fixed a few,
tossed a bunch. The chip that seemed to be the failing part on most
was not documented and the manufacturer was no help.



So far I have only seen one side of the control panel board. I plan to
remove it completely and inspect it. There are a bunch of tiny diodes
on it that are about the only things I can check (forward and reverse
bias) if I scrape away some of the conformal coating but nothing else is
testable that I can see so far. I think the problem *is* on the PC
board but a replacement is not available.


I have not been riveted to this thread but Justan may be on to
something. How complicated is the task this board accomplishes and can
it be done with a few relays? Those black automotive "ice cube" relays
are pretty robust (30a) and available just about anywhere. Sometime
old school is the way to go.



It's doable but I really don't want to get involved with tracing a whole
bunch of unmarked wires with no diagrams to give you a clue as to where
they go and what they control. Plus, it probably won't fix the level
indicators for the fresh, grey and black water tanks.

I've learned to be a little careful about what to sign up for on other
people's equipment. Back in my Navy days I used to repair or do
convergence and gun drive adjustments old CRT type TV sets, fixed VCR's,
radios, etc. Once you touch it, you become "on call" for any future
problems or issues.

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The tank sensors are easier to fix than you think. Just replace
the whole setup. Newer ones don't even drill into the tank. The
sensors are just glued to the outside of the tank. This is one
item that is pretty necessary to have working.

Yeah, but....you have to get to the side of the tank, which means dropping the underbelly, and wire
the things into the display. Or do they have their own display. We've not used ours since the rig
was new. Just plan on dumping every four days or so. If there is not sewer and we're going to be
there a while we carry a 'blue boy' along.