Maybe that's the trouble. Of all the people I've ever seen use it, the
best looks like a layer of smeared-on orange jello. The new stuff "Cetol
Lite" looks a little better.

Judging by how quickly it turns to crap, and how much touch up work it
seems to need to avert this, IMHO it doesn't last one minute longer than
varnish, either.

Doug, I've been using Cetol for 9 years with no problems and it certainly
doesn't look orange. Alien's floors were done with cetol.

http://hometown.aol.com/bobsprit/images/int23.jpg

People always assume it's varnish. Proper use of Cetol provides varnish like
results with FAR less work. Varnish takes more effort, but I've seen it last a
long long time.

Proper use of Cetol
1) Sand with 80, then 160 if you like
2) Wash with water bleach mixture
3) Wipe down with acetone. Teak should appear light colored with no grey!
4) Apply light single coat of cetol, then 2nd 24 hours later. Use sponge brush
ONLY.
5) Apply Cetol gloss coat, then second coat.

Maintain with cetol gloss ONLY.

RB

Bobsprit wrote:
Doug, I've been using Cetol for 9 years with no problems and it certainly
doesn't look orange. Alien's floors were done with cetol.

Hey stupid- an interior finish does not have to stand up to UV.

DSK

Doug, I've been using Cetol for 9 years with no problems and it certainly
doesn't look orange. Alien's floors were done with cetol.

Hey stupid- an interior finish does not have to stand up to UV.


Hey, moron, you were talking about it looking ORANGE, not where it was applied.
Maybe it only looks orange to you outside, brainless?
Still, Ghost's Cetol is still in place after 5 seasons.
As usual, Doug, you manage to make an ass of yourself. You're quite the Cetol
expert!

Jerk! Bwahahahahahaha!

RB

"Bobsprit" wrote in message
...
Maybe that's the trouble. Of all the people I've ever seen use it, the
best looks like a layer of smeared-on orange jello. The new stuff "Cetol
Lite" looks a little better.

Judging by how quickly it turns to crap, and how much touch up work it
seems to need to avert this, IMHO it doesn't last one minute longer than
varnish, either.

Doug, I've been using Cetol for 9 years with no problems and it certainly
doesn't look orange. Alien's floors were done with cetol.

http://hometown.aol.com/bobsprit/images/int23.jpg

People always assume it's varnish. Proper use of Cetol provides varnish
like
results with FAR less work. Varnish takes more effort, but I've seen it
last a
long long time.

Proper use of Cetol
1) Sand with 80, then 160 if you like
2) Wash with water bleach mixture
3) Wipe down with acetone. Teak should appear light colored with no grey!
4) Apply light single coat of cetol, then 2nd 24 hours later. Use sponge
brush
ONLY.
5) Apply Cetol gloss coat, then second coat.

Maintain with cetol gloss ONLY.


and then set the pumpkins out and wait for the 'trick-or-treaters.

RB

Bobsprit wrote:


Proper use of Cetol
1) Sand with 80, then 160 if you like

160? Pretty unusual grit, 120 or 180 sure.

2) Wash with water bleach mixture
3) Wipe down with acetone. Teak should appear light colored with no grey!

I think the secret here is the acetone, (not a very nice solvent to be using in close confines of your cabin BTW), it acts a degreaser and strips the
natural oils from the surface of the teak and lets the cetol get a 'grip'.

I think teak decks should be left unfinished but occasionaly holy stoned, teak joinery should have regular application of teak oil, no varnish or cetol.

Cheers
Marty

I think the secret here is the acetone, (not a very nice solvent to be using in
close confines of your cabin BTW), it acts a degreaser and strips the
natural oils from the surface of the teak and lets the cetol get a 'grip'.

yep. The bleach water mix is to get the sanding dust off and to brighten the
wood a bit for better color. Acetone really drys out the upper surface and teak
is naturally oily wood. Works great, looks good and lasts and lasts.
Unless you're dumb like Doug!

RB

Bobsprit wrote:
yep. The bleach water mix is to get the sanding dust off and to brighten the
wood a bit for better color.

Funny, I have never used bleach on any of our wood. If you want to get
off the dust, using a shop vac with a brush attachment works best.
Putting water onto wood that you are going to try and put a finish on is
not a good idea, especially in a humid climate.

... Acetone really drys out the upper surface and teak
is naturally oily wood.

Haven't done that on our current boat. However we have used a thinned
clear coat which penetrates into the wood.

... Works great, looks good and lasts and lasts.
Unless you're dumb like Doug!

If I'm dumb, then how come people have left us notes on the boat saying
how beautiful the woodwork is? We have the prettiest boat with the
prettiest varnish for miles and miles around.

Fresh Varnish- Doug King

Funny, I have never used bleach on any of our wood. If you want to get
off the dust, using a shop vac with a brush attachment works best.

Nope. It doesn't. Water/Bleach, then acetone will leave the wood bone dry and
less oily. You clearly don't know how to use cetol, so why not shut up already,
Doug?

RB

Funny, I have never used bleach on any of our wood. If you want to get
off the dust, using a shop vac with a brush attachment works best.

Bobsprit wrote:
Nope. It doesn't.

Really? How do you know?

I have had the good luck to work with several people who make a nice
living doing yacht brightwork. They use a small shop vac with a brush,
one and all.

But you're smarter than them, Boobsie. Really you are. That's why you
win all the time!

DSK

I have had the good luck to work with several people who make a nice
living doing yacht brightwork. They use a small shop vac with a brush,
one and all.

My yard does a lot of brightwork on large yachts. They don't use shop vacs to
prep anything. It's just not thorough enough. Water, then acetone is. A vac is
for cleanup, not prepping for cetol!!!
Moron!

RB