Funny, I have never used bleach on any of our wood. If you want to get
off the dust, using a shop vac with a brush attachment works best.

Nope. It doesn't. Water/Bleach, then acetone will leave the wood bone dry and
less oily. You clearly don't know how to use cetol, so why not shut up already,
Doug?

RB

If I'm dumb, then how come people have left us notes on the boat saying
how beautiful the woodwork is?

Uh, maybe because we're talking about Cetol, Dumbass?
What an idiot Doug is.

RB

Funny, I have never used bleach on any of our wood. If you want to get
off the dust, using a shop vac with a brush attachment works best.

Bobsprit wrote:
Nope. It doesn't.

Really? How do you know?

I have had the good luck to work with several people who make a nice
living doing yacht brightwork. They use a small shop vac with a brush,
one and all.

But you're smarter than them, Boobsie. Really you are. That's why you
win all the time!

DSK

I have had the good luck to work with several people who make a nice
living doing yacht brightwork. They use a small shop vac with a brush,
one and all.

My yard does a lot of brightwork on large yachts. They don't use shop vacs to
prep anything. It's just not thorough enough. Water, then acetone is. A vac is
for cleanup, not prepping for cetol!!!
Moron!

RB

Bobsprit wrote:
My yard does a lot of brightwork on large yachts.

So?

... They don't use shop vacs to
prep anything. It's just not thorough enough.

Also because they're probably lazy. And they require thimbles & shackles
on dock lines.

The results speak for themselves... a finish you can read a newspaper
in, and is admired sincerely by all who see it.

... A vac is
for cleanup,

What do you think getting the sanding dust off a surface is?

Bubbles, you're nuts!

DSK

"Martin Baxter" wrote:

I think teak decks should be left unfinished but occasionaly holy stoned,
teak joinery should have regular application of teak oil, no varnish or
cetol.

I gave away my holy stone with the old boat. Gee whiz, I sure wish I could
find a new one.

Seahag

"DSK" wrote:
Seahag wrote:
I sand the wood to 220 grit and apply 3 coats as per lable.

One of the benefits of Cetol is that you don't have to wait as long
between coats, right? This year we're using a new varnish that can also
be applied over a wet coat.

24 hours..next day like.


We started out using 80 grit to take of the DPO's layer of polyurethane
(now that ought to be a criminal offense)

hahaha...I've started with 24 grit on bad teak. Ya know, after the jerks
use a brush or pressure washer.

Then 150 to smooth it; both
with power sander. Then the first couple of coats of sealer/primer went
on, hand sanding (using a block on much of it) with 180 grit then 220.
By this time it's actually going pretty well since you feel like you're
making progress. The worst part is the initial sanding, takes forever
and you feel like you're accomplishing nothing.

After 5 or 6 coats of sealer/primer, we switched to real varnish and 400
grit wet/dry. The wood was totally sealed at this point and already
looking gorgeous. 3 or 4 more coats sanding with 400 then 600 grit &
soapy water. The last 2 or 3 coats went on with this new 'Jet-Dry'
stuff. Some of it is not really mirror smooth but it still looks good.

On the 5 th coat try laying the varnish on across the grain and tipping it
out with the grain. Lightly 220 it a few days later. lay on a 'normal'
coat. Let that dry real good and then sand the whole thing down until it's
all powder white. Wash with soap and water and then get serious. You will
have exposed wood, but the low bits are filled. I really enjoyed varnishing
Lahaina, bitch had some amazing wood.

Dang...I'm tired just reliving some of it!

Seahag

... A vac is
for cleanup,

What do you think getting the sanding dust off a surface is?


Doug, you cleary know nothing about Cetol. You don't use it and reading the can
doesn't count for much. Cetol is quite popular and I've tried several methods.
The one I use works best, even better than the acetone/acid wash suggested by
Sikkens. The sad part is that you haven't tried the method, so you simply don't
know.
Move on, little boy.

RB

DSK wrote:

Bobsprit wrote:

yep. The bleach water mix is to get the sanding dust off and to
brighten the
wood a bit for better color.


Funny, I have never used bleach on any of our wood. If you want to get
off the dust, using a shop vac with a brush attachment works best.

You guys ever heard of a 'Tack cloth'?

Putting water onto wood that you are going to try and put a finish on is
not a good idea, especially in a humid climate.

Water on wood, great way to undo all that sanding and raise the grain, doesn't anybody hear do any cabinet work?

Cheers
Marty

Seahag wrote:

"Martin Baxter" wrote:

I think teak decks should be left unfinished but occasionaly holy stoned,

teak joinery should have regular application of teak oil, no varnish or
cetol.

I gave away my holy stone with the old boat. Gee whiz, I sure wish I could
find a new one.

I know what you mean Haggie, can't seem to find a decent size chunk of pumice for love 'nor money these days.

I thought you could find big pieces in Hawaii, just get someone to bring a chunk back, cut it in half with a diamond saw
and Bob's yer uncle (which may not be a good thing on this news group ;-o)?

Cheers
Marty