Charlie wrote:

Caveats first, I'm mainly a tourer rather than WW, though I do do some
WW and surf. And I'm not an Expert, so bear that in mind and don't take
it as anything like Final Word.

A cag (I'm thinking semi dry, I don't like being wet, and I fall in alot!)

Things I look for in a cag... primarily, does the cut allow me full arm
movement with relative comfort? Sit in a boat with it on and have a
good stretch with a paddle in your hands. I don't see any reason not to
get a twin waisted one as they keep out the water better. I prefer less
elaborate cuff and neck seals for touring, but in whitewater I'm very
happy to borrow a pal's with dry seals, as WW is not about comfort to
anything like the same extent as sea touring!

A buoyancy aid (How much buoyancy should I get? Should I go for one with a
harness? Is it a case of the more you spend, the more change it will have
of saving your life?)

Not really to any significant degree, I'd think: anything you get is
likely to keep you afloat, the differences in price are more about extra
whistles and bells. I really value pockets, but OTOH I'm a tourer who
only does the occasional WW trip. You can do without a harness unless
you're likely to be towing people out of stuff: not too likely if you're
just getting started, and BAs don't last forever so you can worry about
a harness when you need one. Most important thing is comfort: like the
cag, try stuff on sat in a boat and see how free they leave you to move
as you want.

A paddle (I've been borrowing the clubs basic ones. What feather should I
get if I want to do basic whitewater and basic surf? Also, does my height
affect the length of the shaft? I'm 5ft tall!)

Major can of worms, and specific advice of exactly what to get is
probably unhelpful... As well as feather you've got blade shape and
materials of the blades and shaft.

Paddle length will relate to height indirectly, as it's more about
leverage, so where you hold the shaft and your paddling style. Lendal's
website has some guide figures, suggesting typical ranges for
disciplines. Surfing they have 185-195, rodeo 195-204 and river 200-208.

Stiffer shafts allow more efficient paddling, but are more fatiguing to
use over a day. Strength of the shaft can be increased by throwing
money at it, but even the basic glass shafts are pretty strong.

For surf an asymmetric blade may well get you accelerating better, which
is handy, but OTOH that's probably less useful than a fuller blade in WW
control strokes, so you choose, you lose...

Blade material is something where you throw money at it to get something
lighter and/or stronger. Stronger and lighter are both better, but
you're talking a lot of money for a full monty set of blades.

Feather is down to personal preference to quite a degree. Lighter
feathers mean a bit less work for your control wrist but a bit more air
resistance to pushing the blade ahead, and rolling on the non-control
side takes a bit or re-acquaintance. If you're happy with the paddles
you've borrowed, get something the same. If you find your control wrist
is suffering a bit, maybe try something a little lower, though if you
can borrow some alternatives and try them before you make up your mind
that might be a cunning plan.

Don't despair if that seems like a lot, as if you get a cheapish pair
they should still be fine for getting going and can be a spare in
future. If you've got a Lendal shaft you can get a Paddlok centre join
and just relegate them to use as emergency splits in the future, once
you've decided what you /really/ want. Another nice thing about the
Paddlok setup is you can easily change blades in future (I started off
with cheap(der) polypro blades and upgraded to carbon/nylon without
having to change the shaft, and bought an "empty" shaft to use the old
blades on as splits).

I think that's it! Yell if I've left anything out.

You may wish to add a throwbag and some sort of footwear. And a thermos
flask!

I'm looking for general advise about purchasing

Bottom line is Try It On.
Beware anyone saying you Must Get Brand X Model Z. It might suit /them/
perfectly, but that doesn't mean it will suit you. This is especially
true of fit to body. On a similar line, further note that although
women are different shapes from men, women are also different shapes to
other women: "Women's Design" is not /necessarily/ better for you than
"Unisex", though it may well be, which gets us back to Try It On, which
is where we came in.

Happy shopping!

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

You asked about a BA ( we call them PFD's) Your challenge is to get a
very comfortable one that gives you a full range of movement. They will
all get you up for a breath: IF THEY FIT!
Good strong shoulder straps are a must for possible rescues. In The
Hand of God rescue or simply a helping hand dragging you back into your
boat, your rescuer should be able to grasp good stout webbing on your
shoulders to do it. This saves misunderstandings.
A good BA or PFD is likely going to cost a bit. Mine is about $200.00
Canadian about 80 quid.
You won't need a tow harness.
I trust the boat has added boyancy ( air bags ) to displace water..
I am mostly a sea kayaker but like the last poster do a little WW.
That BA has to fit and be comfortable, That to me is one of the most
important things.
( of course I can't swim)....
Have fun. this is a great dsport.
When you get old we will steal you away to sea kayaking.

Thanks for the advice guys. so far I've only really done kayaking on the
Marina where I live, out on the sea from there and down in Gower (best surf
in the UK apparently!). I've had my boat since last summer (It's an I:3)
and bought it on a bit of a whim! I've got my first taste of proper white
water coming up soon at Llanysul and I can't wait! This is why I want the
kit. And yes, my boat has air bags, I wouldn't be allowed to paddle with
the club if it didn't, and I don't fancy the idea of emptying out a whole
boat when I go over!

Are the low cut PFD's generally better? They look like they should be, and
they're generally much more expensive. They look like the offer a really
good range of movement around the shoulder and core. It's one thing I don't
want to skimp on, I'd rather pay more money for something I may never need,
but could one day save my life if it's up to scratch. Of course, at the
back my my head, I realise that a company wouldn't sell a PFD labelled for
whitewater that wouldn't be able to pull you out of a tricky situation!

Anyway, I'm going to be heading off to the pool for a rolling clinic (still
can't get it!) so I'll love you and leave you!

Charlie.

wrote in message
oups.com...
You asked about a BA ( we call them PFD's) Your challenge is to get a
very comfortable one that gives you a full range of movement. They will
all get you up for a breath: IF THEY FIT!
Good strong shoulder straps are a must for possible rescues. In The
Hand of God rescue or simply a helping hand dragging you back into your
boat, your rescuer should be able to grasp good stout webbing on your
shoulders to do it. This saves misunderstandings.
A good BA or PFD is likely going to cost a bit. Mine is about $200.00
Canadian about 80 quid.
You won't need a tow harness.
I trust the boat has added boyancy ( air bags ) to displace water..
I am mostly a sea kayaker but like the last poster do a little WW.
That BA has to fit and be comfortable, That to me is one of the most
important things.
( of course I can't swim)....
Have fun. this is a great dsport.
When you get old we will steal you away to sea kayaking.

Charlie wrote:

Are the low cut PFD's generally better?

Hmmmmm... define "better"...

They look like they should be, and
they're generally much more expensive. They look like the offer a really
good range of movement around the shoulder and core. It's one thing I don't
want to skimp on, I'd rather pay more money for something I may never need,
but could one day save my life if it's up to scratch.

It's the floatation that will do the life saving, and if it didn't keep
you afloat they wouldn't be able to get them on the market legally.
Beyond that the movement potential is best assessed by trying it on
while sat in a boat and holding a paddle. Won't be the same in the shop
as on the water, but it's much better than looking at pictures and
assuming more money == better design. If it doesn't allow comfortable
paddling action it'll **** you off with every stroke, but if a cheaper
design isn't restrictive then don't worry about it /looking/ as if it
might be!

Of course, at the
back my my head, I realise that a company wouldn't sell a PFD labelled for
whitewater that wouldn't be able to pull you out of a tricky situation!

A BA won't really pull you out of a tricky situation: that generally
requires human intervention, whether you or someone else. It /will/
provide buoyancy which can be a big help, but if you get trapped
underwater you'll still drown and if you're swept out to see you'll
still get hypothermic. And an expensive BA won't really help you any
more than a cheap one in such a situation.

Anyway, I'm going to be heading off to the pool for a rolling clinic (still
can't get it!) so I'll love you and leave you!

It'll come. It takes some folk longer than others, but it'll come.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/