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  #21   Report Post  
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Default Thanks to all... starter problem solved

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 10:32:15 -0400, Harry ?
wrote:

On 7/8/10 10:14 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 10:29:54 -0300, "YukonBound"
wrote:

Maybe... but in here every bit of information is used as a weapon.


You can thank your pal in MD for that state of affairs. I think a lot
of us would appreciate knowing which component or connection was
failing.


You're ever the asshole, eh, w'hine?


I rest my case.

PS, you should closely study the case law relating to stalking,
slander and defamation.

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Default Thanks to all... starter problem solved



"W1TEF" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 10:14:17 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 10:29:54 -0300, "YukonBound"
wrote:

Maybe... but in here every bit of information is used as a weapon.


You can thank your pal in MD for that state of affairs. I think a lot
of us would appreciate knowing which component or connection was
failing.


It was my fault I guess. I used a different wiring scheme than Don
was used to.

I suppose I should have given him a wiring diagram for the fuse block
too. OH well. :)


Don't worry about that...I find it too hard to reach or see... what with my
'progressive lens' glasses. ;-)

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Default Thanks to all... starter problem solved

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 11:02:46 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

It's six gauge solid with UV shielding. You'd have to see the
installation to understand why I went with that type of wire -
stranded wouldn't have worked as well.


Solid wire is generally considered to be inappropriate on boats or any
other application subject to vibration for the reason that even small
amounts of vibration will eventually cause the solid copper to work
harden and crack. Tinned wire with fine strands, commonly available
in West Marine, is the right stuff. UV protection requires some of
that corrugated plastic tubing with the split side.

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Default Thanks to all... starter problem solved

On 7/8/10 11:02 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 10:32:15 -0400, Harry
wrote:

On 7/8/10 10:14 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 10:29:54 -0300, "YukonBound"
wrote:

Maybe... but in here every bit of information is used as a weapon.

You can thank your pal in MD for that state of affairs. I think a lot
of us would appreciate knowing which component or connection was
failing.


You're ever the asshole, eh, w'hine?


I rest my case.

PS, you should closely study the case law relating to stalking,
slander and defamation.


Why? Are you planning to stalk me? You've already slandered me, many
times. So have all the other righties. Do you suppose that gives them a
"pass"?

You should direct your attention to the two hotheads here...loogy and
little tosk. Both threaten to visit those they don't like and "teach
them" a lesson.




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Default Thanks to all... starter problem solved



wrote in message
...
On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 11:10:28 -0300, "YukonBound"
wrote:



"W1TEF" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 09:59:27 -0300, "YukonBound"
wrote:

Thanks to some dogged investigating, I've solved my starter problem and
all
works well.
I won't bore you with the details........ but after 'the fix' was made,
the
starter jumped up and threw that flywheel around like a champ.

So what was it?


Ok.. since you asked...
This solution was in the back of my mind from the start, but I didn't want
to try anything for fear of causing problems.
I was able to turn the bendix toothed gear by hand and one way it would
raise up on a helix to the flywheel so I felt nothing was seized there.
When I pressed the starter I noticed that the bexdix was spinning
clockwise... same way as the flywheel did when I pulled on the cord.
This didn't seem right so I took a closer look at how the Minn Kota prop
spun when I put in in forward & reverse.
You guessed it...the opposite way from what you would expect.
I had assumed that the cables leading to the battery posts were like your
normal 14-2 household wiring.
That is..... black hot & white neutral. It was the opposite.... the white
wire belonged on the + post and black on the - post.
I couldn't remember how it was connected when I re-installed the battery
...and with a 50% chance of getting it right...i didn't.
I'll mark or apply red tape to that white wire so I don't make that
mistake
again.



I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you probably blew the
rectifier and you may have damaged the charging winding of your
stator. If you have a meter, see if you have 14-15v on the battery
when you are at speed.


What was there as part of the charging system was removed two years ago.
A couple screws vibrated loose and spun around damaging components. i
wasn't using the charger... so didn't want to replace the damaged parts.

  #29   Report Post  
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Default Thanks to all... starter problem solved



"W1TEF" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 11:10:28 -0300, "YukonBound"
wrote:



"W1TEF" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 09:59:27 -0300, "YukonBound"
wrote:

Thanks to some dogged investigating, I've solved my starter problem and
all
works well.
I won't bore you with the details........ but after 'the fix' was made,
the
starter jumped up and threw that flywheel around like a champ.

So what was it?


Ok.. since you asked...
This solution was in the back of my mind from the start, but I didn't want
to try anything for fear of causing problems.
I was able to turn the bendix toothed gear by hand and one way it would
raise up on a helix to the flywheel so I felt nothing was seized there.
When I pressed the starter I noticed that the bexdix was spinning
clockwise... same way as the flywheel did when I pulled on the cord.
This didn't seem right so I took a closer look at how the Minn Kota prop
spun when I put in in forward & reverse.
You guessed it...the opposite way from what you would expect.
I had assumed that the cables leading to the battery posts were like your
normal 14-2 household wiring.
That is..... black hot & white neutral. It was the opposite.... the white
wire belonged on the + post and black on the - post.
I couldn't remember how it was connected when I re-installed the battery
...and with a 50% chance of getting it right...i didn't.
I'll mark or apply red tape to that white wire so I don't make that
mistake
again.


I never thought of that.

I will take the blame for that - I should have used red/black shrink
wrap to designate hot and ground. I just assumed that black is ground
in most wiring schemes meaning that white would be hot - 12 Vdc what
else could it be? :)

Glad you got it straight. Hey, things happen right?


I should have marked it red when I first removed the battery in late 2007.
Probably waited until it was freezing to move the battery inside and got
lazy.

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