Skip, you got good advice from JPS and Glenn. SeaLand "OdorSafe" and the
Aussie "Odorfree" hose have proven in independent testing to be 16 x
more resistant to odor permation than any other sanitation hose on the
market. It's stiff as an ironing board, though...which means you'll
most likely need to use inline radius fittings. Don't ever heat ANY hose
to bend it tighter than it wants to bend easily...you'll damage the
hose. I've seen it kink, and even develop tears on the outside of a hard
bend.

The Sealand "Odorsafe" hose is actually from an Aussie company, its real
product name is AVS96. There may be other companies distributing this
hose in the states since I believe they've started to manufacture it
here.

They haven't begun mfr'g it here, only distributing it under their own
brand name. For nearly 10 years, SeaLand was the exclusive US
distributer...they private labelled it "OdorSafe." I don't have the
inside skinny (yet) about why that deal is over, but the Aussies aren't
selling it to SeaLand any more at all...they're marketing it here under
their own brand name "AVS96 Odorfree." Here's a link to the Aussies'
website about it: http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm

Meanwhile, SeaLand has just introduced "OdorSafe Plus," which they claim
is even better and is made in Italy. Price is the about the same for it
as for original OdorSafe/AVS96. I haven't seen any test results on it
yet, so I'm taking a "wait and see" stance for now. But I do know that
the AVS96 stuff is all but totally impervious to odor permeation...it's
readily available here...and that's what I'd use if it were my own boat.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

In article kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04, says...
148 is recommended for grey water and as a bilge hose but it will not
stand up to odor permiation in toilet applications. 144 is somewhat
better but not much. 101 is the standard black water hose and Sealand's
Odorsafe is the best.

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


Completely agree.

Here's more info an schedule 40 and pvc from a learned TWL subscriber:

"From my experience of designing plumbing systems for industy and
commercial applications, I would opt for using PVC over ABS. There are
some necessary precautions that should be taken. First of all, use
schedule 40 PVC and not the thin DWV (drain waste vent) pipe. Secondly,
if using the DWV fittings which have a larger radius, make sure that
they have the long sockets to allow as much glued area as possible.
Third, do not clamp near a fitting but rather allow the pipe absorb any
flex rather than the fitting. BTW, our industrial applications were
subject to considerably more vibration and flexing than I have ever seen
on our boat. PVC pipe is not brittle unless exposed to UV rays from
sunlight. I have seen some suppliers store it outside and that pipe
could be already brittle when purchased.

A couple of other notes, PVC pipe can be bent with the application of
heat to meet any special situations. Another thought would be to use
scdl 40 PVC electrical conduit. This is gray in color, UV protected,
and there are a number of sweep elbows available."



jps

In article kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04, says...
148 is recommended for grey water and as a bilge hose but it will not
stand up to odor permiation in toilet applications. 144 is somewhat
better but not much. 101 is the standard black water hose and Sealand's
Odorsafe is the best.

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


Completely agree.

Here's more info an schedule 40 and pvc from a learned TWL subscriber:

"From my experience of designing plumbing systems for industy and
commercial applications, I would opt for using PVC over ABS. There are
some necessary precautions that should be taken. First of all, use
schedule 40 PVC and not the thin DWV (drain waste vent) pipe. Secondly,
if using the DWV fittings which have a larger radius, make sure that
they have the long sockets to allow as much glued area as possible.
Third, do not clamp near a fitting but rather allow the pipe absorb any
flex rather than the fitting. BTW, our industrial applications were
subject to considerably more vibration and flexing than I have ever seen
on our boat. PVC pipe is not brittle unless exposed to UV rays from
sunlight. I have seen some suppliers store it outside and that pipe
could be already brittle when purchased.

A couple of other notes, PVC pipe can be bent with the application of
heat to meet any special situations. Another thought would be to use
scdl 40 PVC electrical conduit. This is gray in color, UV protected,
and there are a number of sweep elbows available."



jps

Peggie Hall wrote:
It's stiff as an ironing board, though...which means you'll
most likely need to use inline radius fittings.


Peggie,

What are "inline radius fittings"? I haven't heard of these
before. Do you have a url for these on the web? (I did a quick
search and didn't find anything.)

Cindy

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

Peggie Hall wrote:
It's stiff as an ironing board, though...which means you'll
most likely need to use inline radius fittings.


Peggie,

What are "inline radius fittings"? I haven't heard of these
before. Do you have a url for these on the web? (I did a quick
search and didn't find anything.)

Cindy

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

What are "inline radius fittings"? I haven't heard of these before. Do
you have a url for these on the web? (I did a quick search and didn't
find anything.)


Try he http://www.sealandservices.com/hose_fittings.htm Scroll down
till you come to the fittings.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

What are "inline radius fittings"? I haven't heard of these before. Do
you have a url for these on the web? (I did a quick search and didn't
find anything.)


Try he http://www.sealandservices.com/hose_fittings.htm Scroll down
till you come to the fittings.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Powerboat Reports tested all the major sanitation hoses and Sealand's
Odorsafe came out far above the rest. It has a layer of something like Saran
wrap co-extruded in the hose to make it a lot more resistant to permeation.
I replaced all the hoses that came with my 16 year old boat with it. Not a
problem ever since, and I don't expect any for a long time.

Now, if you're really on a budget, get whatever sanitation hose you can
afford, and wrap it with Saran wrap.

--


Keith
__
If flying is so safe, why do they call the airport the terminal?
"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message news
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two
basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on
the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use?
Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say
(some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not
needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential
input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

Powerboat Reports tested all the major sanitation hoses and Sealand's
Odorsafe came out far above the rest. It has a layer of something like Saran
wrap co-extruded in the hose to make it a lot more resistant to permeation.
I replaced all the hoses that came with my 16 year old boat with it. Not a
problem ever since, and I don't expect any for a long time.

Now, if you're really on a budget, get whatever sanitation hose you can
afford, and wrap it with Saran wrap.

--


Keith
__
If flying is so safe, why do they call the airport the terminal?
"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message news
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two
basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on
the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use?
Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say
(some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not
needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential
input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

Thanks for the clarification Peggy. I'll check the ratings on the hot tub
hose and let you know what I come up with.
I would imagine that if I can get the manufacturers part #s at the hardware
store, I could compare with #s on marine hose.
MMC
"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...


MMC wrote:
I saw hose that looked
suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware
store
the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot
tub
hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference
to
convince me to try it next time.

You'll be sorry. Not all white flexible pvc hose is created equal...and
hot tub hose is not rated for sanitation system use, only for water use.
It'll permeate with odor very quickly.

I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and
all
at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for.

That may be ok, but if it'll be connected to any below-waterline
thru-hulls, make sure it's a grade that's rated for below-waterline use.

Flex hoses are like hard PVC in that they have "schedule" #s...schedule
148, 144 and 101 are rated for sanitation use...I'm not sure what the
"schedules" are for clear hose, but they also use a standardized system
that will tell you which hoses are rated for below waterline use and
which ones aren't.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html