Jim Conlin wrote:
Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.


Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split.
Also, once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than
the rest of the hose.

I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west
marine hose oil.

--
the return email is a spam trap
send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
Jim Conlin wrote:

Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.


Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split. Also,
once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than the rest of
the hose.

I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

KY

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
Jim Conlin wrote:

Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end.
Immerse the hose end in hot water.
Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent.


Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split. Also,
once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than the rest of
the hose.

I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

KY

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

West Marine actually markets an oil labelled just for hose connections???

I hope it's water soluble, 'cuz no oil or grease should ever be used on
a hose connections 'cuz it leaves the surfaces permanently
slippery...the hose can work its back off, even if securely clamped. No
petroleum based products should be used 'cuz they're destructive to
rubber. Dishwashing liquid or better yet, K-Y jelly (water soluble
surgical jelly), are the only acceptable hose lubricants I know of.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose
oil.

West Marine actually markets an oil labelled just for hose connections???

I hope it's water soluble, 'cuz no oil or grease should ever be used on
a hose connections 'cuz it leaves the surfaces permanently
slippery...the hose can work its back off, even if securely clamped. No
petroleum based products should be used 'cuz they're destructive to
rubber. Dishwashing liquid or better yet, K-Y jelly (water soluble
surgical jelly), are the only acceptable hose lubricants I know of.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
I didn't notice a connector for a "slightly oversized" barbed male
thru-hull fitting. Talk about blood, sweat, and tears - I had all three
in abundance before my husband took over and used a piece of rubber
exhaust hose. (Better the head that works and smells, than the head that
can't be used at all.) Any good suggestions for making this work without
heating (and splitting) the hose?


Only one solution I can think of, Cindy...a reducing adapter that'll let
you put the right size hose on the thru-hull, then step it down to 1.5".

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.htm

Cindy Ballreich wrote:
I didn't notice a connector for a "slightly oversized" barbed male
thru-hull fitting. Talk about blood, sweat, and tears - I had all three
in abundance before my husband took over and used a piece of rubber
exhaust hose. (Better the head that works and smells, than the head that
can't be used at all.) Any good suggestions for making this work without
heating (and splitting) the hose?


Only one solution I can think of, Cindy...a reducing adapter that'll let
you put the right size hose on the thru-hull, then step it down to 1.5".

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.htm

How about solid copper pipe with short sections of that expensive hose just
to join to the thru hull and toilet itself etc....
Waste odors wont seep thru solid copper piping.
Shoot, you could even JB weld epoxy the pieces of copper together instead of
using metal solder.



"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message news
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two
basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on
the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use?
Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say
(some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not
needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential
input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

How about solid copper pipe with short sections of that expensive hose just
to join to the thru hull and toilet itself etc....
Waste odors wont seep thru solid copper piping.
Shoot, you could even JB weld epoxy the pieces of copper together instead of
using metal solder.



"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message news
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two
basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on
the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use?
Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say
(some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not
needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential
input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

Scott Downey wrote:
How about solid copper pipe with short sections of that expensive hose just
to join to the thru hull and toilet itself etc....
Waste odors wont seep thru solid copper piping.
Shoot, you could even JB weld epoxy the pieces of copper together instead of
using metal solder.

Copper pipe is often used in boat fresh water systems, but urine is so
corrosive that copper isn't recommended for waste piping.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html