Shields makes straight and 90º threaded hose adaptors and Sealand sells
a straight PVC to hose adaptor. Both are exactly the right size to fit
1 1/2" sanitation hose. They cost about $8/each and slip on with a
little KY jelley.
Most of my runs are a Shields adaptor threaded into the tank, 12" to 24"
of Sealand hose, a Seland adaptor and then Schedule 40. If I had to go
around a corner I used sweep ells or 45s. On the head end there is
another Sealand transition to a short length of hose which then fits on
the head outlet.

BTW, I have a couple of Shields 90s, a straight and a couple of Sealand
straight transitions left over if anybody needs them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


Does the hose go over the pipe, or are some intermediate fittings needed to
work?

L8R

Skip


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...
You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.

From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip
--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2


"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...
You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.

From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip
--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2


"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

Support the pipe well every 24-26". Do not allow the fittings to be
subjected to stress. The Shields and Sealand fittings only come
straight and 90s. Try to use the straights where ever possible and
sweeps on all pipe to pipe turns.

Like I said, I have some extra hose fittings if you need them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Support the pipe well every 24-26". Do not allow the fittings to be
subjected to stress. The Shields and Sealand fittings only come
straight and 90s. Try to use the straights where ever possible and
sweeps on all pipe to pipe turns.

Like I said, I have some extra hose fittings if you need them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com