Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#22
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising thesedays
|
#23
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising these days
Brian Whatcott wrote in
: I wonder if, could it be? that reclaimed oil makes the same nose? If so, count me in! Brian W Some people claim they can smell french fries, but I can't. The oil is very clean burning. Whatever liquids are attached to the oil we don't separate them. There's no water in the oil as it all boils off in the deep fat fryers that sit there for hours. We filter down to .5 microns, which will easily flow through the injection nozzles. I've never had a clog from it in the years I've used it that way. The oil, itself, still has that "burned" smell of used deep fat fryer oil. There's a mix of Canola and other vegetable oils in what we get. It doesn't seem to matter from batch to batch where it came from, as long as it will burn at 22:1 compression we're fine. One of the engines we're supplying had 220K miles on it and had an overhaul after about 80K on the oil. Nothing unusual was seen in the engine, to the mechanic's amazement. He'd been reading oil company propaganda saying it would destroy the engine, which is simply not true. Their reason for the lie is fairly obvious. There was no unusual coking, stuck rings, etc. from burning it. It burns very clean and you have to really work hard to get it to smoke on hard acceleration, unlike dino fuel oils. Burning slower, and it does burn much slower, there's much less knocking, which has got to be easier on all the pressure induced stresses on pistons, bearings, rods, crank. There's not as much power so there's not as much stress. My '83 300TD wagon is on 247K miles and still runs fine, except for top gear on the transmission shifting a little soft these days before the worn clutches finally hold solid, but that has to be expected at a quarter million miles...(c; Sure lets you keep your wallet fuller of those faux Fed banknotes we pass off as "money" on the world. .....oh, back on topic....wetcell batteries are best.... |
#24
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising these days
"Roger Long" wrote in
: are willing to put up with crawling around on top of them sucking acid out of them with a hydrometer and putting distilled water back in to them to repair the damage you have done to them What??!! Where the hell did THIS come from? They don't manufacture excess acid! Overcharging does NOT produce more acid....only converts water into hydrogen and oxygen. |
#25
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising thesedays
Wayne.B wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 15:20:55 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: His service life numbers suggest that some AGMs will be expected to last 10 years. AGMs have only been popular in marine use for less than a decade so it may be hard to get real numbers. My experience has been fantastic. I have heard the same from others whom I respect. I will probably convert one of my house banks to AGMs in the future. I hope you were also thinking of adding another charger, since if your other bank is not AGM you will need it. |
#26
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising thesedays
Roger Long wrote:
This discussion is going the way many do here and in other venues. The perspective makes a huge difference. ... One thing that influences my system driven decision to have AGM's is my less than optimum battery box location. Checking wet cells with my face just a few inches above the batteries after squirming headfirst into the quarter berth and sticking my head in a small hatch from which it would take a while to extract myself holds no appeal, goggles or no goggles. My electrical consumption profile does not require that I be able to recharge at high rates. Thanks for pointing out your situation. Considering that I would also have bought AGM. |
#27
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising these days
On Mon, 16 Jun 2008 07:38:14 -0400, "Roger Long"
wrote: After hearing what my friend went through after his acid shower, I wouldn't put wet cells in my sailboat for anything or any cost savings. What were the circumstances of your friends accident ? |
#28
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising these days
Salomon Fringe wrote in
: wrote: Here's a fun little practical application demonstration that Salomon can try for himself: Take a group 31 flooded deep cycle battery of whatever brand you think is the best, and any group 31 AGM battery off the shelf regardless of brand. Attach a 12 volt headlamp to each and let them sit with the headlight burning until it no longer glows at all, indicating the batteries are flat. Now, wait 30 days, and THEN recharge both batteries using whatever method is recommended by the manufacturer. After charging, load test both batteries. You'l find the flooded battery is now a heavy piece of junk, but the AGM performs pretty much as it did before this torture test. Good. Now you do the following experiment. Tkake the same group of deep cycle batteries and AGM batteries and put them on a charger at 15V. Wait just one week, and THEN test both batteries. You'l find the AGM battery is now a heavy piece of junk, but the flooded battery performs pretty much as it did before this torture test. After you did this test, stop and think what which of these two torture tests would be the more likely that a battery installed in a cruising boat will ever have to face. What is your conclusion now? Perhaps your conclusion should be that you should have invested in a good charge controller to make sure that you don't charge at 15V. If you're investing in AGMs, you should invest in the rest of the necessary components also. You should also learn that you shouldn't deep cycle any batteries. I try not to have mine drop below 12.3V and typically keep them at 12.5V and above. -- Geoff www.GeoffSchultz.org |
#29
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising these days
"Roger Long" wrote in
: I meant sucking electrolyte out to read the hydrometer. Sure it goes right back in but, if you could see my installation, you'd know why checking them doesn't have much appeal. -- Roger Long Whew! Thanks! I had visions of boaters sucking out the over supply of acid and replacing it with water....(c; I used to have to lay on my belly with my eyeballs 3" from the top of the cells on the Endeavour 35 sloop's starting battery Geoffrey used to have...under the quarterberth mattress in a little well. How awful. |
#30
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising thesedays
|
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
long term mooring design - an engineering question | Cruising | |||
Captain 45 seeks female sailing companion for long-term relationship/voyaging | Crew | |||
Captain 45 seeks female sailing companion for long-term relationship/voyaging | Cruising | |||
Would you go long term cruising? | Cruising | |||
Long term in Virgin Islands or Antigua | General |