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Default Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising these days

On Wednesday 18 June 2008 02:25, wrote:

On Jun 17, 3:07*pm, Salomon Fringe wrote:
I wish I could answer the cycling question better.


Yes I wish there were battery monitors that would integrate the number of
kWh taken from the battery over its lifespan, and do something smart with
every low and high % charge so people could finally really check and
compare performance.

My tactic is to get
a charger of some sort on the batteries when the voltage starts
dropping below ~11.9v when hit with a load. That load is typically ~8
amps when the fridge and freezer compressors pop on.

....

Does your battery monitor show % discharge of your bank? If so that might be
better than relying on voltage that changes depending on load.

As for loads, well, I think my boat is pretty systems heavy but we
stop short of the washer/dryer and microwave. We do have two
computers a 12v refrigerator and a 12v freezer each w/their own
compressor, an electric auto-pilot, SSB, VHF, RADAR, GPSs, 1500 watt
inverter, instruments, a diesel heater (seldom used), an electric
windlass and lights (and probably some other stuff I'm forgetting).

....
What does your1500w inverter power? I suppose the inverter will be the
heaviest load at possibly 120A @12v.

Your set-up is in a whole other league, though. I'm kind of in awe.
I can see with a bank that size that cost must be a much more serious
factor. How do you like 24 volts?

-- Tom.


Cost is always a factor, but as I said, I have never met anybody that had
his AGM (or gel) batteries outlive even their semi-traction batteries and I
didn't feel brave enough to try to be the first to prove it with my new
main bank...
WRT 24v - I have never used 12v so I can't compare. I can see things getting
cheaper and easier to install when halving all currents. Especially when
you have some distance to go.
Apart from all navigation equipment and some pumps everything here is just
running at 230v through the inverters. So outside the wheelhouse and the
engine room I actually don't see much 24v.
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Default Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising thesedays

On Jun 18, 3:11*am, Salomon Fringe wrote:
... Does your battery monitor show % discharge of your bank? If so that might be
better than relying on voltage that changes depending on load.


It does, but it's funky. I've fiddled with the Peukert a fair bit
(now trying 1.150) and with the charge efficiency % (97). Still, it
always tells me the batteries are worn down long before the voltage is
weak and then it shows them fully charged while they're still
accepting current. And it periodically has a two's complement / over-
run thing that sends it off into huge negative numbers sounds the
alarms and requires a re-set... It is a nice volt/amp meter, it does
a good job of controlling the alternators and it does an adequate job
of controlling the solar, but it's not all that useful as a battery
gauge.

...
What does your1500w inverter power? I suppose the inverter will be the
heaviest load at possibly 120A @12v.


The computers mostly. I also have some battery powered tools that I
recharge with it and a dremel tool that I run off of it and when we've
got cell phones we charge them, too. Typically it is off.

We're basically a 12v DC boat. Sounds like you're on the other side
of the coin being mostly 230 AC (50 cycle, I presume). In theory,
your way should save a lot on wire and transmission losses.

Anyway, I'm very happy with my AGMs and I'm glad to hear that you're
happy with your tractor batteries. I think we'll all be happier yet
when nickel, lithium or maybe even fuel cells are affordable.

-- Tom.
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Default Batteries - what's best and cheapest for long term cruising thesedays

On Jun 18, 9:43*am, Salomon Fringe wrote:
...
Seems like you have programmed it for too small a battery? You did check
the correct number of amp hours and if the monitor asks for a c/20, c/10
or c/5 value?


Well I put in the nominal ah for the c/20 rate. But it could be that
the batteries are conservatively rated. The monitor manufacturers
suggest testing the batteries at a high rate and then a low rate to
get real numbers. I've avoided that as it can't be good for the
batteries to run them flat twice or more (a single test is likely to
have errors) and the numbers will change as the battery ages... All
in all that seems like a high price to pay to have a % remaining
number. I already know if the batteries are doing what I need.

Anyway, I'm very happy with my AGMs and I'm glad to hear that you're
happy with your tractor batteries. *


Not tractor, more like forklift ;-)


Oh darn "cruizhimers" strikes again. I knew it was one of the "T"
words... Sorry

-- Tom.

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