Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#9
![]()
posted to rec.boats.cruising
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
wrote in message
... On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:33:41 -0700, "Capt. JG" wrote: wrote in message . .. On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:03:36 -0700, "Capt. JG" wrote: wrote in message m... On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 05:59:59 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore" wrote: "Bob Crantz" wrote You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote circuit breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in the cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now and the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for three way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too. Amen! Bob Crantz Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even though they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more reliable than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible to find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources. Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could simply get in the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part of the same ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you return and put things away. That means you can verify they are on by a physical check, too, when you go forward to untie the safety tie around your furled headsail. No modifications needed. It's perfectly acceptable to run the NAV lights whenever underway, even at high noon on a sunny day. These days, with LED NAV lights, it doesn't present much of a problem of running down the batteries. Steaming light can be rigged to go on and off with the engine. This is an interesting idea... I don't have LEDs, but still... I could always switch over to LEDs, which I've been thinking about doing also. Given the conditions, it wouldn't be totally bizarre to have them on in preparation for the summer fog we know we'll get at some point. I figure that all the other plans I've heard involved spending money and doing a fair amount of work. Seems like this plan would be less money and work, and ultimately simpler and just as effective. You even get the bonus of increased reliability, and much lower power consumption. My running lights, which used to draw over 3 amps, now draw .3 amps TOTAL for the three combined. Especially on a sailboat with minimal ability to charge batteries, that's a big plus. I'm going to check it out... the LEDs shouldn't be a problem, but I'm not particularly gifted when it comes to electical stuff (like getting the stern light to work with engine on... just as likely to get it right or fry something and have to call the fire dept.) LOL If you have a key switch that must be turned to operate the engine, it may also have a switched 12 volts terminal for accessories and gauges that get power when you turn it on. If not, you could change out the keyswitch to one that does have that. Yes. It should have a switched 12vdc terminal. Next time I'm at the boat, I'm going to check. The two lights that would need to come on when the engine is running would be the stern and steaming lights. I'm trying to think of another situation when I'd want either of those two on. I can't think of a situation, but if there is one, it would be nice to have a bypass to force them on. Golf was brutal... I think I'll stick to sailing. LOL -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Solar Panel Help | Boat Building | |||
Genoa Panel Cut | ASA | |||
Sorry for the duplicate | General | |||
Panel lights? | General | |||
how2 duplicate windvane VANE ? | Boat Building |