I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to the
cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm. Has someone done this or has
suggestions about what to look or watchout for with respect to the type of
switch? My engine controls are in the aft laz under the seat, and it should
be pretty straightforward to run wires, etc.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On 2008-03-25 20:17:28 -0400, "Capt. JG" said:

I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to the
cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm.

The correct ones would both would be double-pole, double-throw (DPDT)

But WHY? It takes only a few seconds to go to the panel, throw the
switches, then return to your helm. You're adding at least 3 extra
connections and an exposed switch, some more things to go wrong....

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
news:2008032521223516807-jerelull@maccom...
On 2008-03-25 20:17:28 -0400, "Capt. JG" said:

I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to
the
cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm.

The correct ones would both would be double-pole, double-throw (DPDT)

But WHY? It takes only a few seconds to go to the panel, throw the
switches, then return to your helm. You're adding at least 3 extra
connections and an exposed switch, some more things to go wrong....

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/



Perhaps I don't want to have to rely on those "few seconds," especially if I
need to start the engine and switch on the steaming light. Which one do I do
first? It's not a huge deal to use the current switch, but I'm thinking
about the convenience. The switch/panel wouldn't be exposed any more than my
key and blower control... as I said, in a stern lazzarette.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Roger Long" wrote
I've never seen three way switches for 12 V systems and you shouldn't use
110 volt non-marine stuff.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't take a couple of SPDT switches like
this and create JG's two station arrangement. Wire it like a typical 3-way
household light, substituting +/- DC for hot/neutral.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|49758|303333|1017101&id=812735

"Roger Long" wrote
The problem with 3-way switch set ups though is that you never know which
position at either switch is off or on.

Good point. How about two SPSTs in parallel? Either switch could turn the
light on, but both would have to be off to turn it off.

"Roger Long" wrote
The problem with 3-way switch set ups though is that you never know which
position at either switch is off or on.

Not a big problem, I could live with that.


"Ernest Scribbler" wrote:
Good point. How about two SPSTs in parallel? Either switch could turn the
light on, but both would have to be off to turn it off.

That would be a good way to do it, esp if they both had indicator
lights. I hate to leave lights on when they're not needed and tend to
be forgetful sometimes.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Roger Long wrote:
Clever. The problem with 3-way switch set ups though is that you never know
which position at either switch is off or on.


Easy enough to wire a small indicator lamp in parallel with the nav
light/steaming light....whatever light. Might be a good idea anyway,
then you'll at least know that your switch made contact.

Cheers
Marty

wrote
esp if they both had indicator lights.

A simple visual cue might be to install the switches in a three way
arrangement such that the lights are off when the switches are pointed in
the same direction at both stations. Or vice versa if you prefer, but you'd
have to remember which it is and remember to look.

Any way you do it has advantages and drawbacks, IE with series switches
you're less likely to accidentally leave a light on, while with parallel
switches you're less likely to think you've turned a light on when you
haven't. Indicator lamps would mitigate most of that, but they'd add a
little current draw and some complication.

How about a DPDT double coil latching relay and a couple of push buttons
wired in parallel. Wire one side of the relay to the coils so that each
pulse would reverse the status of the relay. That way you could eliminate
any current loss in the long run to the cockpit and back, the wire to the
switches could be very small gauge and one push of either switch turns the
lights on or off.

For the belt and suspenders types you could add a separate switch to bypass
the relay for redundancy.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to
the cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm. Has someone done this or has
suggestions about what to look or watchout for with respect to the type of
switch? My engine controls are in the aft laz under the seat, and it
should be pretty straightforward to run wires, etc.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:26:12 -0600, cavelamb himself
wrote:

Any way you do it has advantages and drawbacks, IE with series switches
you're less likely to accidentally leave a light on, while with parallel
switches you're less likely to think you've turned a light on when you
haven't. Indicator lamps would mitigate most of that, but they'd add a
little current draw and some complication.




Sounds like a job for - Relays!

Good grief. There's nothing like complexity and additional points of
failure to muck up a boats reliability.