I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to the
cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm. Has someone done this or has
suggestions about what to look or watchout for with respect to the type of
switch? My engine controls are in the aft laz under the seat, and it should
be pretty straightforward to run wires, etc.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On 2008-03-25 20:17:28 -0400, "Capt. JG" said:

I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to the
cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm.

The correct ones would both would be double-pole, double-throw (DPDT)

But WHY? It takes only a few seconds to go to the panel, throw the
switches, then return to your helm. You're adding at least 3 extra
connections and an exposed switch, some more things to go wrong....

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

"Jere Lull" wrote in message
news:2008032521223516807-jerelull@maccom...
On 2008-03-25 20:17:28 -0400, "Capt. JG" said:

I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to
the
cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm.

The correct ones would both would be double-pole, double-throw (DPDT)

But WHY? It takes only a few seconds to go to the panel, throw the
switches, then return to your helm. You're adding at least 3 extra
connections and an exposed switch, some more things to go wrong....

--
Jere Lull
Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/



Perhaps I don't want to have to rely on those "few seconds," especially if I
need to start the engine and switch on the steaming light. Which one do I do
first? It's not a huge deal to use the current switch, but I'm thinking
about the convenience. The switch/panel wouldn't be exposed any more than my
key and blower control... as I said, in a stern lazzarette.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

How about a DPDT double coil latching relay and a couple of push buttons
wired in parallel. Wire one side of the relay to the coils so that each
pulse would reverse the status of the relay. That way you could eliminate
any current loss in the long run to the cockpit and back, the wire to the
switches could be very small gauge and one push of either switch turns the
lights on or off.

For the belt and suspenders types you could add a separate switch to bypass
the relay for redundancy.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to
the cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm. Has someone done this or has
suggestions about what to look or watchout for with respect to the type of
switch? My engine controls are in the aft laz under the seat, and it
should be pretty straightforward to run wires, etc.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
...
I've been thinking about adding duplicate switches for my nav lights to
the cockpit near the engine start. I guess they would be three-position
switches, since I'd like to be able to control them from their current
place, as well as closer to the helm. Has someone done this or has
suggestions about what to look or watchout for with respect to the type of
switch? My engine controls are in the aft laz under the seat, and it
should be pretty straightforward to run wires, etc.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote circuit
breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in the
cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now and
the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for three way
switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too.

Amen!

Bob Crantz

"Bob Crantz" wrote

You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote circuit
breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in the
cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now and
the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for three
way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too.

Amen!

Bob Crantz


Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even though
they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more reliable
than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible to
find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 05:59:59 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote:

"Bob Crantz" wrote

You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote
circuit
breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in
the
cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now
and
the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for three
way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too.

Amen!

Bob Crantz


Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even though
they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more reliable
than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible to
find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources.

Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could simply
get in
the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part of
the same
ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you return
and
put things away. That means you can verify they are on by a physical
check, too,
when you go forward to untie the safety tie around your furled headsail.
No
modifications needed. It's perfectly acceptable to run the NAV lights
whenever
underway, even at high noon on a sunny day. These days, with LED NAV
lights, it
doesn't present much of a problem of running down the batteries.

Steaming light can be rigged to go on and off with the engine.




This is an interesting idea... I don't have LEDs, but still... I could
always switch over to LEDs, which I've been thinking about doing also. Given
the conditions, it wouldn't be totally bizarre to have them on in
preparation for the summer fog we know we'll get at some point.


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:03:36 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 05:59:59 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote:

"Bob Crantz" wrote

You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote
circuit
breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in
the
cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now
and
the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for
three
way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too.

Amen!

Bob Crantz


Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even though
they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more reliable
than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible to
find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources.

Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could simply
get in
the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part of
the same
ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you
return
and
put things away. That means you can verify they are on by a physical
check, too,
when you go forward to untie the safety tie around your furled headsail.
No
modifications needed. It's perfectly acceptable to run the NAV lights
whenever
underway, even at high noon on a sunny day. These days, with LED NAV
lights, it
doesn't present much of a problem of running down the batteries.

Steaming light can be rigged to go on and off with the engine.




This is an interesting idea... I don't have LEDs, but still... I could
always switch over to LEDs, which I've been thinking about doing also.
Given
the conditions, it wouldn't be totally bizarre to have them on in
preparation for the summer fog we know we'll get at some point.

I figure that all the other plans I've heard involved spending money
and doing a fair amount of work. Seems like this plan would be less
money and work, and ultimately simpler and just as effective. You even
get the bonus of increased reliability, and much lower power
consumption. My running lights, which used to draw over 3 amps, now
draw .3 amps TOTAL for the three combined. Especially on a sailboat
with minimal ability to charge batteries, that's a big plus.




I'm going to check it out... the LEDs shouldn't be a problem, but I'm not
particularly gifted when it comes to electical stuff (like getting the stern
light to work with engine on... just as likely to get it right or fry
something and have to call the fire dept.) LOL


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:33:41 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:03:36 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

wrote in message
m...
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 05:59:59 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote:

"Bob Crantz" wrote

You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote
circuit
breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out
in
the
cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it
now
and
the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for
three
way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too.

Amen!

Bob Crantz


Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even
though
they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more
reliable
than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible
to
find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources.

Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could
simply
get in
the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part
of
the same
ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you
return
and
put things away. That means you can verify they are on by a physical
check, too,
when you go forward to untie the safety tie around your furled
headsail.
No
modifications needed. It's perfectly acceptable to run the NAV lights
whenever
underway, even at high noon on a sunny day. These days, with LED NAV
lights, it
doesn't present much of a problem of running down the batteries.

Steaming light can be rigged to go on and off with the engine.




This is an interesting idea... I don't have LEDs, but still... I could
always switch over to LEDs, which I've been thinking about doing also.
Given
the conditions, it wouldn't be totally bizarre to have them on in
preparation for the summer fog we know we'll get at some point.

I figure that all the other plans I've heard involved spending money
and doing a fair amount of work. Seems like this plan would be less
money and work, and ultimately simpler and just as effective. You even
get the bonus of increased reliability, and much lower power
consumption. My running lights, which used to draw over 3 amps, now
draw .3 amps TOTAL for the three combined. Especially on a sailboat
with minimal ability to charge batteries, that's a big plus.




I'm going to check it out... the LEDs shouldn't be a problem, but I'm not
particularly gifted when it comes to electical stuff (like getting the
stern
light to work with engine on... just as likely to get it right or fry
something and have to call the fire dept.) LOL

If you have a key switch that must be turned to operate the engine, it
may also have a switched 12 volts terminal for accessories and gauges
that get power when you turn it on. If not, you could change out the
keyswitch to one that does have that.




Yes. It should have a switched 12vdc terminal. Next time I'm at the boat,
I'm going to check.

The two lights that would need to come on when the engine is running would
be the stern and steaming lights. I'm trying to think of another situation
when I'd want either of those two on. I can't think of a situation, but if
there is one, it would be nice to have a bypass to force them on.

Golf was brutal... I think I'll stick to sailing. LOL


--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

On Mar 27, 12:48 am, wrote:
... Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could simply get in
the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part of the same
ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you return and
put things away. ...

Many commercial operators do this. On a sailboat going between power
and sail might be an issue. If using conventional lights then the
steaming light (masthead) could be turned on by the ignition. If
using a tri-color then you'd need some way of switching between it and
the under-power lights.

-- Tom.