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#1
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Bob Crantz" wrote
You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote circuit breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in the cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now and the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for three way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too. Amen! Bob Crantz Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even though they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more reliable than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible to find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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wrote in message
... On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 05:59:59 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore" wrote: "Bob Crantz" wrote You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote circuit breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in the cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now and the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for three way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too. Amen! Bob Crantz Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even though they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more reliable than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible to find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources. Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could simply get in the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part of the same ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you return and put things away. That means you can verify they are on by a physical check, too, when you go forward to untie the safety tie around your furled headsail. No modifications needed. It's perfectly acceptable to run the NAV lights whenever underway, even at high noon on a sunny day. These days, with LED NAV lights, it doesn't present much of a problem of running down the batteries. Steaming light can be rigged to go on and off with the engine. This is an interesting idea... I don't have LEDs, but still... I could always switch over to LEDs, which I've been thinking about doing also. Given the conditions, it wouldn't be totally bizarre to have them on in preparation for the summer fog we know we'll get at some point. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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wrote in message
... On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:03:36 -0700, "Capt. JG" wrote: wrote in message . .. On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 05:59:59 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore" wrote: "Bob Crantz" wrote You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote circuit breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in the cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now and the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for three way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too. Amen! Bob Crantz Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even though they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more reliable than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible to find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources. Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could simply get in the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part of the same ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you return and put things away. That means you can verify they are on by a physical check, too, when you go forward to untie the safety tie around your furled headsail. No modifications needed. It's perfectly acceptable to run the NAV lights whenever underway, even at high noon on a sunny day. These days, with LED NAV lights, it doesn't present much of a problem of running down the batteries. Steaming light can be rigged to go on and off with the engine. This is an interesting idea... I don't have LEDs, but still... I could always switch over to LEDs, which I've been thinking about doing also. Given the conditions, it wouldn't be totally bizarre to have them on in preparation for the summer fog we know we'll get at some point. I figure that all the other plans I've heard involved spending money and doing a fair amount of work. Seems like this plan would be less money and work, and ultimately simpler and just as effective. You even get the bonus of increased reliability, and much lower power consumption. My running lights, which used to draw over 3 amps, now draw .3 amps TOTAL for the three combined. Especially on a sailboat with minimal ability to charge batteries, that's a big plus. I'm going to check it out... the LEDs shouldn't be a problem, but I'm not particularly gifted when it comes to electical stuff (like getting the stern light to work with engine on... just as likely to get it right or fry something and have to call the fire dept.) LOL -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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wrote in message
... On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:33:41 -0700, "Capt. JG" wrote: wrote in message . .. On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:03:36 -0700, "Capt. JG" wrote: wrote in message m... On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 05:59:59 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore" wrote: "Bob Crantz" wrote You could always replace the in cabin switches with manual/remote circuit breakers (RCCBs) and place the circuit breaker control switches out in the cockpit. That would keep the power circuit the same as you have it now and the controls in both places would be exact duplicates, no need for three way switches, etc. You would know if they were on or off too. Amen! Bob Crantz Well, they already rejected a latching relay as "to complex" even though they are readily available, cheaper, easier to install and more reliable than a 3-way circuit. An RCCB costs 20 times as much and impossible to find except from specialized aviation or industrial control sources. Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could simply get in the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part of the same ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you return and put things away. That means you can verify they are on by a physical check, too, when you go forward to untie the safety tie around your furled headsail. No modifications needed. It's perfectly acceptable to run the NAV lights whenever underway, even at high noon on a sunny day. These days, with LED NAV lights, it doesn't present much of a problem of running down the batteries. Steaming light can be rigged to go on and off with the engine. This is an interesting idea... I don't have LEDs, but still... I could always switch over to LEDs, which I've been thinking about doing also. Given the conditions, it wouldn't be totally bizarre to have them on in preparation for the summer fog we know we'll get at some point. I figure that all the other plans I've heard involved spending money and doing a fair amount of work. Seems like this plan would be less money and work, and ultimately simpler and just as effective. You even get the bonus of increased reliability, and much lower power consumption. My running lights, which used to draw over 3 amps, now draw .3 amps TOTAL for the three combined. Especially on a sailboat with minimal ability to charge batteries, that's a big plus. I'm going to check it out... the LEDs shouldn't be a problem, but I'm not particularly gifted when it comes to electical stuff (like getting the stern light to work with engine on... just as likely to get it right or fry something and have to call the fire dept.) LOL If you have a key switch that must be turned to operate the engine, it may also have a switched 12 volts terminal for accessories and gauges that get power when you turn it on. If not, you could change out the keyswitch to one that does have that. Yes. It should have a switched 12vdc terminal. Next time I'm at the boat, I'm going to check. The two lights that would need to come on when the engine is running would be the stern and steaming lights. I'm trying to think of another situation when I'd want either of those two on. I can't think of a situation, but if there is one, it would be nice to have a bypass to force them on. Golf was brutal... I think I'll stick to sailing. LOL -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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On 2008-03-27 21:40:09 -0400, "Capt. JG" said:
The two lights that would need to come on when the engine is running would be the stern and steaming lights. The stern light should be on the nav switch, as it should be on with the red and green ones, under sail or power. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
#6
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"Jere Lull" wrote in message
news:2008032721510550073-jerelull@maccom... On 2008-03-27 21:40:09 -0400, "Capt. JG" said: The two lights that would need to come on when the engine is running would be the stern and steaming lights. The stern light should be on the nav switch, as it should be on with the red and green ones, under sail or power. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ Yeah, duh... just realized that after I typed it. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Dave" wrote in message
... On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 22:11:37 -0700, "Capt. JG" said: The stern light should be on the nav switch, as it should be on with the red and green ones, under sail or power. -- Jere Lull Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ Yeah, duh... just realized that after I typed it. I'm not so sure you're wrong, Jon. Is there any reason why the system couldn't be set up so that either turning on the nav lights switch or turning on the engine switch would activate the stern light? Seems it would just require an additional wire from the engine switch to the stern light hot wire. It could be set up that way, but there's no need. Why would I have the bow light on without the stern light... that's where I wasn't thinking correctly. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#8
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Jere Lull" wrote
The stern light should be on the nav switch, as it should be on with the red and green ones, under sail or power. That's how it was on my power boat, but my sail boat has separate switches for bow and stern lights. I wonder why? Is there ever a time when you don't want the front and back lit up simultaneously? |
#9
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posted to rec.boats.cruising
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"Ernest Scribbler" wrote in message
et... "Jere Lull" wrote The stern light should be on the nav switch, as it should be on with the red and green ones, under sail or power. That's how it was on my power boat, but my sail boat has separate switches for bow and stern lights. I wonder why? Is there ever a time when you don't want the front and back lit up simultaneously? I think not... I was also thinking about a fly light for the windex... low-voltage LED, but that should also be switched on when the nav lights come on. No reason to not have it on that I can think of. The main issue is low amps. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#10
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On Mar 27, 12:48 am, wrote:
... Or, if remembering to turn them on or off is a problem, you could simply get in the habit of turning on the NAV lights when you get underway as part of the same ritual when you get other things ready, and turn them off when you return and put things away. ... Many commercial operators do this. On a sailboat going between power and sail might be an issue. If using conventional lights then the steaming light (masthead) could be turned on by the ignition. If using a tri-color then you'd need some way of switching between it and the under-power lights. -- Tom. |
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