mr.b wrote:
2 questions.
Has anyone ever heard of this procedure being done from the interior
rather than the exterior of the boat?

Also, can anyone give a ballpark estimate as to the expected cost of
loosening the lead ballast on a fin-keel and re-sealing/repairing the
joint between the two?

I see you have many good replies, but let me add that duplicating the
non-skid is rather easy if you choose to do it from above. You make a
mold from the pre-repair non-skid and use that as a template for the new
gel coat. Were I do do it, I'd remove all non-skid left after the repair
and use the paint / sand route for the new non-skid.

Re-coring isn't simple or cheap so you need to evaluate the value of
your boat before and after the repair, but it's possible (like almost
anything marine).

I have also heard rumor of injections which will, in situ, repair
defective cores. I'd run those rumors down to earth before embarking on
such a task.

-paul

wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 17:51:05 -0600, Paul Cassel
wrote:

I have also heard rumor of injections which will, in situ, repair
defective cores. I'd run those rumors down to earth before embarking on
such a task.

-paul

Those mythical injections are sold in the same aisle at FairyMart as the pills
that you drop in your car's gas tank that do a ring job.


In theory an extremely low viscosity hygroscopic compound will do the
job, but as you can note from my OP, I'm skeptical that such a compound
exists.

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 21:05:04 -0400, wrote:

On 19 Jul 2007 19:42:04 -0500, Dave wrote:

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:35:27 -0400, said:

In theory an extremely low viscosity hygroscopic compound will do the
job, but as you can note from my OP, I'm skeptical that such a compound
exists.

Hoo boy! Are you just a little skeptical about the tooth fairy as well? How
about the Easter Bunny?

Really!

Just for openers - if the balsa is still wet, why would it absorb something as
thick or thicker than the water that is already saturating it?

Um.....I think you need to look up "hygroscopic."

Um, I think you need to look up a lot of other terms, including saturated, and
blind faith. Wet moldy rotted balsa is not going to accept much of anything,
regardless of how much you wish it would. This idea of a miracle potion is not
new, and it has been proven to be a complete waste of time money and effort. It
simply doesn't work. If it did, thousands of boats with soggy core would have
been saved from the chainsaw. Show me ONE that has been saved by this method.

The problem is that by the time the decks get soft you probably do not
have any structural material, to amount to anything, left between the
upper and lower deck skins. What you have is a mush of rotted core and
nothing is going to give it any structural integrity. Of course, if
you catch the problem before the core actually rots and is simply
saturated with water there are a number of methods of attempting to
dry out the wet wood.

One can apply a vacuum and I even read an article about someone who
took the door off a microwave oven, disabled the door disconnect, and
laid it face down on the deck. The problem is that none of these
methods are very successful and can result in additional damage to the
deck..

The only real answer is to remove the core and replace it with
something. Whether this be wood, foam, or even epoxy resin, makes no
difference you must, somehow, provide a bond between the upper and
lower deck skins or you do not have the original designed deck
strength.






Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

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