2 questions.
Has anyone ever heard of this procedure being done from the interior
rather than the exterior of the boat?

Also, can anyone give a ballpark estimate as to the expected cost of
loosening the lead ballast on a fin-keel and re-sealing/repairing the
joint between the two?

mr.b wrote:

Has anyone ever heard of this procedure being done from the interior
rather than the exterior of the boat?

I can't imagine any other way to do it. Making the non-skid part of the
deck and other areas look right after re-coring would be near impossible.
Doing it from the inside requires removing all or most of the interior and
working with fibreglass over your head which is why extensive deck core rot
is an economic death sentence for most boats.


Also, can anyone give a ballpark estimate as to the expected cost of
loosening the lead ballast on a fin-keel and re-sealing/repairing the
joint between the two?

If you have to ask, you can't aff....

Too many variables such as how frozen the bolts and nuts are. You would
need to talk to someone who had done it on a similar make, model, and age.

--
Roger Long

I have only seen one deck repair job and that was on a Pacific Seacraft 31.
The repair was done from above and was undetectable afterwards. The shop
that did the repair looked at doing it from below and decided it would be
easier done from above.

I have replaced keel bolts. The labor cost (exclusive of hauling charges)
was about $500. So dropping the keel and rebedding the joint should be
similar.

David

Was that deck core replacement or just spot filling of small areas of bad
core around leaking fittings?

--
Roger Long

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Was that deck core replacement or just spot filling of small areas of bad
core around leaking fittings?

--
Roger Long


I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 18:29:17 -0700, David&Joan wrote:

I have only seen one deck repair job and that was on a Pacific Seacraft
31. The repair was done from above and was undetectable afterwards.

This is the only way I've ever seen it done, which was why I asked the
question. A seller claims that the work was done from the inside. I
can't imagine what kind of a mess that would create. As to the
keel/ballast question, the boat we're looking at has an ugly looking
joint. The asking price is so low as to make a sensible person go
hmmmm....Must consult the surveyor.

Subject

$10K & 2 years will get you close.

IMHO, it's chain saw time.

Lew

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 22:43:29 -0400, "mr.b" wrote:

On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 18:29:17 -0700, David&Joan wrote:

I have only seen one deck repair job and that was on a Pacific Seacraft
31. The repair was done from above and was undetectable afterwards.

This is the only way I've ever seen it done, which was why I asked the
question. A seller claims that the work was done from the inside. I
can't imagine what kind of a mess that would create. As to the
keel/ballast question, the boat we're looking at has an ugly looking
joint. The asking price is so low as to make a sensible person go
hmmmm....Must consult the surveyor.

I don;t know what kind of a boat you have but I just replaced the deck
on a 35 ft. power boat. We replaced the deck core from the inside. The
boat was bought knowing that much of the interior would have to be
replaced so we initially literally gutted the boat. We then cut
through the interior deck skin and scrapped and sanded the rotten
plywood core out. Finally we replaced the core. due to the curvature
of the deck it was relatively easy to "plank" the core across the
width of the boat with a single support under the center. We also used
screws from the top to ensure that the fit between the core and the
upper skin was tight. The core planks were glued in with epoxy glue.
Once the glue was dry the screws were removed and the holes plugged.

After glueing in all the core a fairly small amount of fairing and
filling was needed to produce a smooth surface which was covered with
one layer of 400 Gm. chopped mat followed by a layer of 400 gm. woven
roving.

I had no problem laminating 400 gm cloth overhead by simply wetting
out the wood and then "sticking the cloth up against the wetted wood
and rolling out the cloth with a roller wet with resin. With one
helper I was easily able to put up 3 X 6 foot sections of cloth.

Having said all this please remember that the boat was literally a
hollow shell when we did the work. To try this with a boat filled with
bulkheads and cabinets, lockers, etc. would be nearly impossible, or
at least something I wouldn't want to attempt.


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.
And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

You might look in the Yellow Pages for industrial X-ray outfits. I've heard
of it being done and it will tell you a lot about the condition of the keel
bolts. Often, they are necked down to nearly nothing in the joint.

--
Roger Long