2 questions.
Has anyone ever heard of this procedure being done from the interior
rather than the exterior of the boat?

Also, can anyone give a ballpark estimate as to the expected cost of
loosening the lead ballast on a fin-keel and re-sealing/repairing the
joint between the two?

mr.b wrote:

Has anyone ever heard of this procedure being done from the interior
rather than the exterior of the boat?

I can't imagine any other way to do it. Making the non-skid part of the
deck and other areas look right after re-coring would be near impossible.
Doing it from the inside requires removing all or most of the interior and
working with fibreglass over your head which is why extensive deck core rot
is an economic death sentence for most boats.


Also, can anyone give a ballpark estimate as to the expected cost of
loosening the lead ballast on a fin-keel and re-sealing/repairing the
joint between the two?

If you have to ask, you can't aff....

Too many variables such as how frozen the bolts and nuts are. You would
need to talk to someone who had done it on a similar make, model, and age.

--
Roger Long

I have only seen one deck repair job and that was on a Pacific Seacraft 31.
The repair was done from above and was undetectable afterwards. The shop
that did the repair looked at doing it from below and decided it would be
easier done from above.

I have replaced keel bolts. The labor cost (exclusive of hauling charges)
was about $500. So dropping the keel and rebedding the joint should be
similar.

David

Was that deck core replacement or just spot filling of small areas of bad
core around leaking fittings?

--
Roger Long

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Was that deck core replacement or just spot filling of small areas of bad
core around leaking fittings?

--
Roger Long


I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.
And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of
the deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top
back on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.
And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like
hell and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat
for a similar price.

--
Roger Long


The core is epoxied, the deck is epoxied, the joints are bevelled, taped,
expoxied. Done correctly, it looks great and is quite strong.

Redecorating a topside skid patch fragmented and recored with scraps
and replaced could as "easy" as laying down a cut out layer of wet
glass, covering it with a plastic sheet, and weighting down a
perforated expanded metal embosser on the green patch. Remove the
metal and plastic once the top glass cures. Paint or use colored
resin.

Or, sprinkle with sand or popcorn. Do matching side pieces.

Terry K

Subject

$10K & 2 years will get you close.

IMHO, it's chain saw time.

Lew