and, that's important not just for determining the necessity of the job but
also for guiding the repair. If the bolts are necked, you are probably not
going to be able to back them out without breaking them off and will need to
drill new holes. This is fairly easy in a lead keel but a big job in iron.

--
Roger Long

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:05:00 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith


Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.




Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...

"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of
the deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top
back on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.
And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like
hell and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat
for a similar price.

--
Roger Long


The core is epoxied, the deck is epoxied, the joints are bevelled, taped,
expoxied. Done correctly, it looks great and is quite strong.

A long and detailed article about wet core can be found here. A
worthwhile read!

http://www.proboat-digital.com/proboat/200508/?pg=37

Gordon

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:05:00 -0700, wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote:
"KLC Lewis" wrote

I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of
the
deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top
back
on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother.

And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous
fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like
hell
and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice.

It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat
for
a similar price.

--
Roger Long

Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new
glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier
to lay new glass over the whole thing.

Todd Smith


Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.




Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better.

"Bruce" wrote
Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.

I'd call that a scarf joint. No butts about it...

On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 15:42:08 -0400, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote:

"Bruce" wrote
Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the
depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from
each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of
cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but
joint into a continuation of the original material.

I'd call that a scarf joint. No butts about it...


well, technically a scarf is a single slope ( ----/ /----- ) where the
joints I am talking about are (-----\/-----).

Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better.


Even 20:1 for some things and the first layer goes to the edges of the
bevel and progressive layers are smaller... However, there is a host
of potential problems that needs to be considered in any specific
repair.

-- Tom.

Redecorating a topside skid patch fragmented and recored with scraps
and replaced could as "easy" as laying down a cut out layer of wet
glass, covering it with a plastic sheet, and weighting down a
perforated expanded metal embosser on the green patch. Remove the
metal and plastic once the top glass cures. Paint or use colored
resin.

Or, sprinkle with sand or popcorn. Do matching side pieces.

Terry K