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#21
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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re-coring deck and ballast work
On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:09:59 -0400, "mr.b" wrote:
2 questions. Has anyone ever heard of this procedure being done from the interior rather than the exterior of the boat? Also, can anyone give a ballpark estimate as to the expected cost of loosening the lead ballast on a fin-keel and re-sealing/repairing the joint between the two? I did extensive core replacement, but from above. Reasons: 1. Easier to work. Working fiberglass is hard enough without trying to do it overhead. 2. My non skid areas were imbedded glass beads. Possible to repair the non skid and blend it so the repaired areas were not obvious. 3. my boat was old enough to need a complete cat poly job anyway, so no paint matching problems. 4. the heaviest structural part of the deck is the underside, that is the heaviest glass thickness and heaviest woven roving. At least mine was. I didn't want to disturb that. 5. when you put new core in, end grain balsa in my case, you want to wet it in to both glass layers well and fully saturate it. Difficult to do working over your head. But from the top, you can just lay it in like slices of bread, cutting and trimming until you get it just right, then begin the process of permanenetly installing. 6. I didn't want to cover or remove everything on the inside that might be impacted by the work. 7. I didn't want to be enclosed with fumes, dust, etc. 8. In my case the core had gotten wet, and the water had frozen, cracking the outer layer of glass and gel coat, so some repair from the top was going to happen anyway. On the second question, if the lead ballast is loose, it needs to be adressed. If you have simply have a seam, but the lead keel is still soundly in place, you don't need to remove it in my opinion. That was the case with mine. I filled the crack with an elastic caulk at each haulout, prior to painting. Did fine. Frank |
#22
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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re-coring deck and ballast work
mr.b wrote:
2 questions. Has anyone ever heard of this procedure being done from the interior rather than the exterior of the boat? Also, can anyone give a ballpark estimate as to the expected cost of loosening the lead ballast on a fin-keel and re-sealing/repairing the joint between the two? I see you have many good replies, but let me add that duplicating the non-skid is rather easy if you choose to do it from above. You make a mold from the pre-repair non-skid and use that as a template for the new gel coat. Were I do do it, I'd remove all non-skid left after the repair and use the paint / sand route for the new non-skid. Re-coring isn't simple or cheap so you need to evaluate the value of your boat before and after the repair, but it's possible (like almost anything marine). I have also heard rumor of injections which will, in situ, repair defective cores. I'd run those rumors down to earth before embarking on such a task. -paul |
#23
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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re-coring deck and ballast work
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#25
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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re-coring deck and ballast work
On Jul 17, 3:19 pm, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
"Bruce" wrote in message ... On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:05:00 -0700, wrote: On Jul 17, 6:23 am, "Roger Long" wrote: "KLC Lewis" wrote I've only seen it done from above, also. You cut out large sections of the deck at a time, remove the old core, replace it with new, put the top back on, glass it into place, Robert's your father's brother. And how strong do you think those butt joints that used to be continuous fiberglass are? This is an approach that is either going to look like hell and be strong or look great and be very weak. Take your choice. It could be done right but I'm sure you could buy a comparable used boat for a similar price. -- Roger Long Wouldn't you grind out the joints and overlap the joints with new glass ? That would be strong and look good. But it might be easier to lay new glass over the whole thing. Todd Smith Normally if you butt joint you grind out a shallow vee nearly to the depth of the original material and extending about 4 inches back from each side of the joint. You then laminate in progressive widths of cloth until you fill the vee. You have then effectively turned the but joint into a continuation of the original material. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) -- Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com Ya, a bevel of about 12 to 1 or 16 to 1 -- the wider the better. 7 to 1 is the recommendation from West. If both sides beveled to meet nothing in the middle, only half as wide overall. In polyester. I did a thru hull as per, worked fine, was invisible under paint. Terry K |
#26
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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re-coring deck and ballast work
"Terry K" wrote in message ups.com... New polyester resin is a poor bond to old polyester resin at best. I hope the repair holds for you, but you may want to consider redoing it with epoxy. |
#27
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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re-coring deck and ballast work
On Jul 20, 7:43 pm, "KLC Lewis" wrote:
"Terry K" wrote in message ups.com... New polyester resin is a poor bond to old polyester resin at best. I hope the repair holds for you, but you may want to consider redoing it with epoxy. Naw, the boat was burned by vandals in the yard. I did beat the speedo wheel in to drain the hulk. Beat as I did, I was not able to make the poly plug budge or crack paint. So, as I often want to admonish all the argumentative graduate chemical and mechanical engineers out there shilling for their epoxy stocks: Good engineering is a work done well enough, cheap enough. All else is vanity. Theory abounds. Terry K |
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