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#1
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![]() Backyard Renegade wrote: Rick Tyler wrote in message . .. On 24 Jun 2004 05:34:49 -0700, (Backyard Renegade) wrote: (snip) Scotty's several dozen S&G boats ahead of me, but I think copper sucks for stitching boats together. I use hefty cable ties, and when I need to loosen one up, I do what Scotty says -- I snip them off and put in a new one. I find that copper either breaks when I twist it with pliers, or, if I use thick wire, pulls out of the plywood. It also stabs me in the fingers so often I feel like I've been playing with snip....... Actually since reading his other post about wanting to build the boat in two weeks with his daughter, I would have suggested a skin (plywood) on frame boat like a small pointy skiff or something anyway. A noobie is not going to build a S+T in two weeks in most cases... Scotty I'm curious as to why you might think that? (That it will take more than two dedicated weeks) Actually I am more curious as to what pitfalls you see me stumbling into that i can't see,( still having the blissful veil of ignorance). As I think about it, there is the obvious, i.e. scheduling boat work is best accomplished by estimating the time required, then multiplying by 2.5, so that you will only be short by 30% of your estimate ![]() but are there any common pitfalls that I might avoid with a few suggestions/pointers by others? |
#2
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![]() The delay factors would include waiting for epoxy to cure ...you'd be surprised at how many times you have to do something, then wait wait. With experience, you can figure out how to order steps so you can do a nice job and do things wet-on-wet. Also, beginners tend to spend more time futzing around with getting the right amount of thickener in the epoxy, applying it carefully, trying to get fiberglass to work the way you expected etcetera. Most boats cannot be built in 2 weeks, unless it's very simple and you have some knowledge about what you are doing, and everything is already acquired and ready to go. The reason that Scotty mentioned skin on frame is because you can basically work non-stop as time and energy permits. No waiting on curing except when you are done, you generally must wait for sealants to cure before painting. That depends on which you select. -- http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project .. "Jonathan" wrote in message ... Backyard Renegade wrote: Rick Tyler wrote in message . .. On 24 Jun 2004 05:34:49 -0700, (Backyard Renegade) wrote: (snip) Scotty's several dozen S&G boats ahead of me, but I think copper sucks for stitching boats together. I use hefty cable ties, and when I need to loosen one up, I do what Scotty says -- I snip them off and put in a new one. I find that copper either breaks when I twist it with pliers, or, if I use thick wire, pulls out of the plywood. It also stabs me in the fingers so often I feel like I've been playing with snip....... Actually since reading his other post about wanting to build the boat in two weeks with his daughter, I would have suggested a skin (plywood) on frame boat like a small pointy skiff or something anyway. A noobie is not going to build a S+T in two weeks in most cases... Scotty I'm curious as to why you might think that? (That it will take more than two dedicated weeks) Actually I am more curious as to what pitfalls you see me stumbling into that i can't see,( still having the blissful veil of ignorance). As I think about it, there is the obvious, i.e. scheduling boat work is best accomplished by estimating the time required, then multiplying by 2.5, so that you will only be short by 30% of your estimate ![]() but are there any common pitfalls that I might avoid with a few suggestions/pointers by others? |
#3
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Ah....well.While assembling a dinghy from sheets of plywood is a new
endeavor, I have been using epoxy and it's many additives for 15 years or so, using about a gallon a year in different applications on the job. As a carpenter/construction manager I've found many applications for its gap filling and adhesive qualities, both in work on boats and on more pedestrian projects. I do have questions like: do I want to assemble the two sides of the bottom together, then attach the sides, or do I want to assemble the two halves of the boat and put them together down the middle? The designer provided layouts with a very efficient utilization of the plywood, something that strikes me as possibly taking a lot of time to figure out otherwise. One of the sheets says to make two sets (it is the bottom halves and the sides) I am inclined to lay out one sheet, cut it out, then trace the second set? as opposed to the time taken to lay out the second one again, plotting each of the curves again.....any thought? I have every thing I need, except for the mast, boom and a gooseneck for the boom... Still, it is a boat, which has it's own force field of surprises. Any thoughts appreciated. Jonathan Brian D wrote: The delay factors would include waiting for epoxy to cure ...you'd be surprised at how many times you have to do something, then wait wait. With experience, you can figure out how to order steps so you can do a nice job and do things wet-on-wet. Also, beginners tend to spend more time futzing around with getting the right amount of thickener in the epoxy, applying it carefully, trying to get fiberglass to work the way you expected etcetera. Most boats cannot be built in 2 weeks, unless it's very simple and you have some knowledge about what you are doing, and everything is already acquired and ready to go. The reason that Scotty mentioned skin on frame is because you can basically work non-stop as time and energy permits. No waiting on curing except when you are done, you generally must wait for sealants to cure before painting. That depends on which you select. |
#4
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Jonathan wrote in message ...
Ah....well.While assembling a dinghy from sheets of plywood is a new endeavor, I have been using epoxy and it's many additives for 15 years or so, using about a gallon a year in different applications on the job. As a carpenter/construction manager I've found many applications for its gap filling and adhesive qualities, both in work on boats and on more pedestrian projects. I do have questions like: do I want to assemble the two sides of the bottom together, then attach the sides, or do I want to assemble the two halves of the boat and put them together down the middle? The designer provided layouts with a very efficient utilization of the plywood, something that strikes me as possibly taking a lot of time to figure out otherwise. One of the sheets says to make two sets (it is the bottom halves and the sides) I am inclined to lay out one sheet, cut it out, then trace the second set? as opposed to the time taken to lay out the second one again, plotting each of the curves again.....any thought? I have every thing I need, except for the mast, boom and a gooseneck for the boom... Still, it is a boat, which has it's own force field of surprises. Any thoughts appreciated. Jonathan Well, we have all given you our thoughts for almost a week, you choose to keep trying to squirm around them... Time to **** or get off the pot! Brian D wrote: The delay factors would include waiting for epoxy to cure ...you'd be surprised at how many times you have to do something, then wait wait. With experience, you can figure out how to order steps so you can do a nice job and do things wet-on-wet. Also, beginners tend to spend more time futzing around with getting the right amount of thickener in the epoxy, applying it carefully, trying to get fiberglass to work the way you expected etcetera. Most boats cannot be built in 2 weeks, unless it's very simple and you have some knowledge about what you are doing, and everything is already acquired and ready to go. The reason that Scotty mentioned skin on frame is because you can basically work non-stop as time and energy permits. No waiting on curing except when you are done, you generally must wait for sealants to cure before painting. That depends on which you select. |
#5
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"Brian D" writes:
Also, beginners tend to spend more time futzing around with getting the right amount of thickener in the epoxy, applying it carefully, trying to get fiberglass to work the way you expected etcetera. You forgot the part where the beginner plops himself down in Chapelle's "wailing chair", stews over the obvious mistake, grinds off two days worth of fiberglass and epoxy, then starts over. Plus mixing too much epoxy, and having it go off in the pot. I bought two one ounce pumps, for my first epoxy boats (five cheap canoes). I mix up 3oz batches, apply that, then mix another. I also use super slow epoxy resin. Where I live (Sacramento) it's often 110F, and slow epoxy can go off in a few minutes under some conditions. -- I don't speak for Intel Michael Kelly (the one in Folsom) "and nobody is fooled except the usual fools." --Jonah Goldberg |
#6
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![]() Oh man!! I thought it was a **moaning** chair not a *wailing* chair! ...I never gat anyting rite! Brian D -- http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project .. "Michael Kelly - FMEC ~" wrote in message ... "Brian D" writes: Also, beginners tend to spend more time futzing around with getting the right amount of thickener in the epoxy, applying it carefully, trying to get fiberglass to work the way you expected etcetera. You forgot the part where the beginner plops himself down in Chapelle's "wailing chair", stews over the obvious mistake, grinds off two days worth of fiberglass and epoxy, then starts over. Plus mixing too much epoxy, and having it go off in the pot. I bought two one ounce pumps, for my first epoxy boats (five cheap canoes). I mix up 3oz batches, apply that, then mix another. I also use super slow epoxy resin. Where I live (Sacramento) it's often 110F, and slow epoxy can go off in a few minutes under some conditions. -- I don't speak for Intel Michael Kelly (the one in Folsom) "and nobody is fooled except the usual fools." --Jonah Goldberg |
#7
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Brian D wrote:
Oh man!! I thought it was a **moaning** chair not a *wailing* chair! ...I never gat anyting rite! Brian D Sorry, I lost my Chapelles ten years ago. My wife threw out my whole library, when the third kid came along, and the kid got billeted in my office. Now at least I get to build boats "for the children". ;-) Mike. |
#8
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Jonathan ) writes:
I'm curious as to why you might think that? (That it will take more than two dedicated weeks) I don't know that it would take quite that long, but you can see under "Boats" on my website (address below) a example of a project plan I did for a small boat with Microsoft Project 97. Actually I am more curious as to what pitfalls you see me stumbling into that i can't see,( still having the blissful veil of ignorance). getting the hull lined up in all 3 dimensions is one. getting things cut out and put together right way 'round and right side up is another. (you are working at least part of the time on an upside down boat) the usual estimate is half the time for the plywood, the other half for the rest (gunwales, seats, oarlocks, etc.), and then the sailing rig is extra if you want to sail the boat. seems all of the little pieces have to be cut at some angle other than 90 degress to fit the curved hull. I'd suggest getting the basic hull complete and then finishing the rest off as you use the boat. I'm still making changes to boats I built 4 years ago. As I think about it, there is the obvious, i.e. scheduling boat work is best accomplished by estimating the time required, then multiplying by 2.5, so that you will only be short by 30% of your estimate ![]() but are there any common pitfalls that I might avoid with a few suggestions/pointers by others? still Harold Payson can cut out and build a 16 foot Windsprint "instant" sailboat hull in one afternoon with the help of an assistant. screw and glue construction is faster because the screws hold everything togther while the glue cures so you can keep right on working without having to stop a day and wait for the glue to harden. Payson used nails. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#9
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#10
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Jonathan wrote in message ...
Backyard Renegade wrote: Rick Tyler wrote in message . .. On 24 Jun 2004 05:34:49 -0700, (Backyard Renegade) wrote: (snip) Scotty's several dozen S&G boats ahead of me, but I think copper sucks for stitching boats together. I use hefty cable ties, and when I need to loosen one up, I do what Scotty says -- I snip them off and put in a new one. I find that copper either breaks when I twist it with pliers, or, if I use thick wire, pulls out of the plywood. It also stabs me in the fingers so often I feel like I've been playing with snip....... Actually since reading his other post about wanting to build the boat in two weeks with his daughter, I would have suggested a skin (plywood) on frame boat like a small pointy skiff or something anyway. A noobie is not going to build a S+T in two weeks in most cases... Scotty I'm curious as to why you might think that? (That it will take more than two dedicated weeks) Actually I am more curious as to what pitfalls you see me stumbling into that i can't see,( still having the blissful veil of ignorance). As I think about it, there is the obvious, i.e. scheduling boat work is best accomplished by estimating the time required, then multiplying by 2.5, so that you will only be short by 30% of your estimate ![]() but are there any common pitfalls that I might avoid with a few suggestions/pointers by others? Call me over the weekend, my number is on my website, smallboats.com Scotty, I will be here today (6/26/04) most of the day and tomorrow... never call me before 10am... |
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