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#1
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useing two part "syringe type epoxy" for tacking.
Has anyone played with using the two part epoxies that come in the the
syringes (1:1) to tack the boat parts in place? Package says 3-5 minutes to bond. can move in an hour, and sand/machine in 24 hours. I could see some spots where they might come in handy, but was wondering if anyone has tried them or not? email: dave-afo at mchsi dot com please respond in this NG so others can share your wisdom as well! |
#2
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Interesting. I've had one of the Siamese twin epoxy deals on my hobby desk
for at least two years and it's still useable. One must be VERY careful not to let any hardener get into or onto the resin side. Also, the cap must be put back on the correct way. If you put the hardener cap on the resin tube, you've had it. This is true of the non-syringe types too. I haven't tried it on the little tubes, but I revived a gallon jug of resin which was clouded (crystallized) by putting it in a pan of hot (180 degree F) water for ten or fifteen minutes; long enough for the heat to penetrate and the resin to turn clear. It was so bad that it wouldn't go thru the ketchup pumps. After heating it was clear and no more viscous than the new stuff. Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "ahoy" wrote in message ... I don't find they have much shelf life. They are always stuck when I go to use them have to be thrown away. I use the Gudgeon Bros. G/5 5 min 2 part (1:1) epoxy for tacking and small repairs. No failures so far but it does say don't use it for constant water exposure on the instructions. It smells like fish oil when you open it. It's easy to use for me. It's 4oz of each for $12 or so. good luck. On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 04:42:21 GMT, Dave Allyn wrote: Has anyone played with using the two part epoxies that come in the the syringes (1:1) to tack the boat parts in place? Package says 3-5 minutes to bond. can move in an hour, and sand/machine in 24 hours. I could see some spots where they might come in handy, but was wondering if anyone has tried them or not? email: dave-afo at mchsi dot com please respond in this NG so others can share your wisdom as well! |
#3
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I have one, had it for some time now and its still good. This is the
double barrel syringe job with a single notched cap to prevent it being put back wrong. The only problem with this syringe is that the epoxy and hardener have a different viscosity and this makes it difficult to push out equal amounts of 'stuff'' after having used some of the contends. I have to push at an angle to get anything near equal amounts released. Not a problem for me as I use it for non precise work, the epoxy always had gone off so far even if the mixing ratio must have been out somewhat at times, |
#4
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useing two part "syringe type epoxy" for tacking.
Yeah, I've used it. Don't trust it for anything structural. I used it for a rudder yoke on a sailing canoe and on a little fold-up dolly. Both failed fairly quickly. I think it would be OK for joints that don't take _ANY_ stresses, or for sealing up edges of thru-decks etc, but I wouldn't trust it for any stressed joint. Dave Allyn wrote: Has anyone played with using the two part epoxies that come in the the syringes (1:1) to tack the boat parts in place? Package says 3-5 minutes to bond. can move in an hour, and sand/machine in 24 hours. I could see some spots where they might come in handy, but was wondering if anyone has tried them or not? email: dave-afo at mchsi dot com please respond in this NG so others can share your wisdom as well! |
#6
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useing two part "syringe type epoxy" for tacking.
Good to know. I had planned on useing it to eliminate the stiches.
Rather, the boat is stiched right now. I was going to spot weld next to the stitches so they could be removed, thus letting the fillets be one continuous bead. Guess I'll go the regular route! Don't know what you're building, but try to search among CLC forum archives on tabbing: http://www.clcboats.com/forum/bbs.pl/. Lot of good advices there. I had asked the same question myself when building my rowing shell and I finally decide to tab with slightly (less than mayo) thickened epoxy fillet. This is because my seams were very tightly fitted and lower viscosity helped epoxy penetrate the seam. Naturally I was afraid of "unzipping" but the tension of 4mm plywood certainly wasn't big enough to unzip the hull. I did have a small accident when I almost fall into the hull and instinctively hit the inside of the hull, around the keel, with my hand. All my weight (85 kg) plus some extra momentum was there, at this narrow spot, while the hull was firmly supported by the sawhorses and it only resulted in cracking 4-5 tabs, so I have a reason to believe that the strength of the fillet I used for tabbing was quite big. You'll also find that some builders even use cynoacrylate adhesives (superglue) for tabbing. |
#8
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useing two part "syringe type epoxy" for tacking.
What about using hot melt glue?
It's really not that difficult to use epoxy for tabbing. IIRC I needed only 2 or 3 baches of 50 ml for cca 120 tabs. In case you proceed with filleting before the epoxy is fully cured you may expect the tabs and fillets to bond chemically. I have missed my "not fully cured" window and have lightly sand the tabs prior to filleting with no consequences. Make sure that you wet out the seams prior to filetting with unthickened epoxy to avoid "joint starvation". |
#9
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useing two part "syringe type epoxy" for tacking.
One thing I have noticed about the hardware store epoxies, not just the twin
syringe style, is that they seem much more brittle than System Three's stuff. Maybe they're for fixing teacups rather than bonding wood? Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm |
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