Has anyone played with using the two part epoxies that come in the the
syringes (1:1) to tack the boat parts in place? Package says 3-5
minutes to bond. can move in an hour, and sand/machine in 24 hours.

I could see some spots where they might come in handy, but was
wondering if anyone has tried them or not?




email: dave-afo at mchsi dot com

please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

I have one, had it for some time now and its still good. This is the
double barrel syringe job with a single notched cap to prevent it being
put back wrong.
The only problem with this syringe is that the epoxy and hardener have
a different viscosity and this makes it difficult to push out equal
amounts of 'stuff'' after having used some of the contends. I have to
push at an angle to get anything near equal amounts released.
Not a problem for me as I use it for non precise work, the epoxy always
had gone off so far even if the mixing ratio must have been out
somewhat at times,

Yeah, I've used it. Don't trust it for anything structural. I used it
for a rudder yoke on a sailing canoe and on a little fold-up dolly.
Both failed fairly quickly. I think it would be OK for joints that
don't take _ANY_ stresses, or for sealing up edges of thru-decks etc,
but I wouldn't trust it for any stressed joint.

Dave Allyn wrote:
Has anyone played with using the two part epoxies that come in the the
syringes (1:1) to tack the boat parts in place? Package says 3-5
minutes to bond. can move in an hour, and sand/machine in 24 hours.

I could see some spots where they might come in handy, but was
wondering if anyone has tried them or not?




email: dave-afo at mchsi dot com

please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

On 3 Oct 2005 13:49:46 -0700, wrote:


Yeah, I've used it. Don't trust it for anything structural. I used it
for a rudder yoke on a sailing canoe and on a little fold-up dolly.
Both failed fairly quickly. I think it would be OK for joints that
don't take _ANY_ stresses, or for sealing up edges of thru-decks etc,
but I wouldn't trust it for any stressed joint.

Good to know. I had planned on useing it to eliminate the stiches.
Rather, the boat is stiched right now. I was going to spot weld next
to the stitches so they could be removed, thus letting the fillets be
one continuous bead. Guess I'll go the regular route!

thanks,
dave


email: dave-afo at mchsi dot com

please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

Good to know. I had planned on useing it to eliminate the stiches.
Rather, the boat is stiched right now. I was going to spot weld next
to the stitches so they could be removed, thus letting the fillets be
one continuous bead. Guess I'll go the regular route!

Don't know what you're building, but try to search among CLC forum archives
on tabbing: http://www.clcboats.com/forum/bbs.pl/. Lot of good advices
there.

I had asked the same question myself when building my rowing shell and I
finally decide to tab with slightly (less than mayo) thickened epoxy fillet.
This is because my seams were very tightly fitted and lower viscosity helped
epoxy penetrate the seam. Naturally I was afraid of "unzipping" but the
tension of 4mm plywood certainly wasn't big enough to unzip the hull. I did
have a small accident when I almost fall into the hull and instinctively hit
the inside of the hull, around the keel, with my hand. All my weight (85 kg)
plus some extra momentum was there, at this narrow spot, while the hull was
firmly supported by the sawhorses and it only resulted in cracking 4-5 tabs,
so I have a reason to believe that the strength of the fillet I used for
tabbing was quite big. You'll also find that some builders even use
cynoacrylate adhesives (superglue) for tabbing.

What about using hot melt glue? If it's just for temporary holding of the
pieces together that should work fairly well. "Norm" from the New Yankee
Workshop used it when he did that one boat for his show.
--
Andrew Butchart


"Dave Allyn" wrote in message
...
On 3 Oct 2005 13:49:46 -0700, wrote:


Yeah, I've used it. Don't trust it for anything structural. I used it
for a rudder yoke on a sailing canoe and on a little fold-up dolly.
Both failed fairly quickly. I think it would be OK for joints that
don't take _ANY_ stresses, or for sealing up edges of thru-decks etc,
but I wouldn't trust it for any stressed joint.

Good to know. I had planned on useing it to eliminate the stiches.
Rather, the boat is stiched right now. I was going to spot weld next
to the stitches so they could be removed, thus letting the fillets be
one continuous bead. Guess I'll go the regular route!

thanks,
dave


email: dave-afo at mchsi dot com

please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

What about using hot melt glue?

It's really not that difficult to use epoxy for tabbing. IIRC I needed only
2 or 3 baches of 50 ml for cca 120 tabs. In case you proceed with filleting
before the epoxy is fully cured you may expect the tabs and fillets to bond
chemically. I have missed my "not fully cured" window and have lightly sand
the tabs prior to filleting with no consequences. Make sure that you wet out
the seams prior to filetting with unthickened epoxy to avoid "joint
starvation".

One thing I have noticed about the hardware store epoxies, not just the twin
syringe style, is that they seem much more brittle than System Three's
stuff. Maybe they're for fixing teacups rather than bonding wood?

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm