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JD
 
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Default Gel Coat , Clear Coat or 2 Part Epoxy???

I have recently aquired a 1984 Challenger bass boat that is in need of
some work. The main thing is the finish of the fiberglass. It is dull
and rough (very bottom is nice and slick, but gets progressively
rougher the high up the boat you go). The rough surface on the
uppermost topside makes for good footing, but I would like to get rid
of the dull haze and apply some kind of clear coat to give it some
shine. I have serious doubts that any kind of wax or restorer would be
of help here (unless there is some miricle product out there that I am
not aware of). Any suggestions of best epoxy paint, gel coat, clear
coat or sealer to use and its application will be appreciated.
thanks, JD
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Proxy
 
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Default Gel Coat , Clear Coat or 2 Part Epoxy???

Best way is hand (no block) wet sand with 600/1000/1500 and then work it
with rubbing compound until its glossy, then apply wax. Rough areas - start
with 400 but be careful. No machine req. fast and easy. Rubbing compound is
a bitch so use an electric polisher.

"JD" wrote in message
m...
I have recently aquired a 1984 Challenger bass boat that is in need of
some work. The main thing is the finish of the fiberglass. It is dull
and rough (very bottom is nice and slick, but gets progressively
rougher the high up the boat you go). The rough surface on the
uppermost topside makes for good footing, but I would like to get rid
of the dull haze and apply some kind of clear coat to give it some
shine. I have serious doubts that any kind of wax or restorer would be
of help here (unless there is some miricle product out there that I am
not aware of). Any suggestions of best epoxy paint, gel coat, clear
coat or sealer to use and its application will be appreciated.
thanks, JD



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Marshall Banana
 
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Default Gel Coat , Clear Coat or 2 Part Epoxy???

Also Sprach Proxy :

Best way is hand (no block) wet sand with 600/1000/1500 and then work it
with rubbing compound until its glossy, then apply wax. Rough areas - start
with 400 but be careful. No machine req. fast and easy. Rubbing compound is
a bitch so use an electric polisher.


He said bass boat, and to me that means metalflake. Don't sand
metalflake! You'll only make it worse. I did use a product on a rough,
dull metalflake finish that did a pretty good job, required yearly
reapplication though. I believe it was called "New Glass" or "Nu Glass",
but I can't seem to find any information on it. I'll dig around and see
if I can find the bottle in the garage, but it's been at least 5 years or
so since I had occasion to use it, so don't hold your breath.

Dan

--
My own personal theory is that God is like I am when I'm playing Civ
II...sure, it really helps my score when I have peaceful civilizations,
but it's really REALLY fun to wage war on other civlizations.
Especially if they are just beginning to develop and I have the super
advanced technology.

-- Jacob Sherwood - {God is bored.}

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DSK
 
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Default Gel Coat , Clear Coat or 2 Part Epoxy???

JD wrote:
I have recently aquired a 1984 Challenger bass boat that is in need of
some work. The main thing is the finish of the fiberglass. It is dull
and rough (very bottom is nice and slick, but gets progressively
rougher the high up the boat you go).


How much work and/or money do you want to spend on it? The first thing
I'd try is a serious buffing. Some have suggested wetsanding starting
with 400 grit, which will smooth the surface quickly, but a 400 grit
surface takes a LOT of work to bring to a shine. Medium grade buffing
compound will do some smoothing and will take a decent shine with some
wax. Try a few spots and see. If not, then drop back to the 400 grit
wetsand, and work your way up through 800 grit, and then buff it.

... The rough surface on the
uppermost topside makes for good footing


??? Most people walk on the deck, not the topsides


.... Any suggestions of best epoxy paint, gel coat, clear
coat or sealer to use and its application will be appreciated.


The absolute best top-of-the-line surface coatings (most durable,
shiniest, most protective) are stuff called Linear Polyurethane. Imron
is one brand of it. It can be 2-part which is tricky stuff, or 1-part
which is much easier and about 90% as good. They do make a clear
buffable LPU coating. It is not cheap though.

A cheaper option is Poli-Glow which I believe is some kind of silicone.
By most reports you have to recoat this stuff every year, but it's very
easy.

Fair Skies- Doug King

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