Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
On 12 Oct 2004 11:49:08 GMT, William R. Watt wrote:
Rodney Myrvaagnes ) writes: If you are not racing, it is all the more important that you _like_ the behavior of the boat you are sailing. The only way to find out what you like is to sail, a lot. First time boatbuilders tend to like any boat they build regardless of performance, and defend their ideosyncracies. Probably true. Dingy cruisers tend to ignore performance while praising versatility and other such advantages, as evidenced by the many Potter's, Comapacs, Dovekies, and such. Yes. Definitely praising versatility and other such advantages! I suspect many dingy cruising sailors are campers and wanderers first, and sailors last. In my case, yes... But, if making The Big effort to design and buid a dinghy I will not let it be bad in any sense since it would be a waist of time and money. Versatile, balanced, stable, reliable, roomy... ....wich doesn't seem to outrule a fast under waterline-body. 2 x 40kg pivoting centerboards (for low D) water ballast outboard well at the weight of maximum 70Kgs (empty 17½' x 6½ hull). ....some luxeries wich naturally will slow the vesell down, but not more then nesessary. From the beginning I thought of some skegs wich are now outruled. Only true foiles under WL!!! Morgan O. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
... OTOH many "cruising" oriented boats
(not just dinghies) are unnecessarily difficult to handle because the rigs are cumbersome in an attempt to be "strong" and they have sacrificed too much controllability. Morgan Ohlson wrote: Could you explain this, please. I undertand you mean that omthing in some cruiser rigs is "to much" and contra productive.... How? What to beware of? Things to be wary of- mast too heavy and/or too stiff. stays too heavy and/or placed where they limit sail travel Fittings not installed, or too big, and/or placed for looks (or strength)instead of where most effective running rigging too heavy and not allowing proper travel For example, a mainsheet that does not run easily because the blocks & rope are too big for the sail, and not long enough because the bigger rope makes a cumbersome mass in the cockpit... seen this many times! Another example is the vang & downhaul on many classic small craft... they tend to be undersized or placed where they are unobtrusive, instead of being rigged where they have maximum effective control... result is that the rig goes all floppy & baggy in gusts, making the boat frustrating to sail in anything but ideal conditions. Many years ago I was invited to join a bunch of people racing a fleet of beautiful small classics (in fact they were Herrshoff gaffers). After gladly accepting, I spent about 45 minutes re-rigging the halyards & downhaul & improvising a vang. The result was that I had a great time sailing the boat, also won three races and their only comment was, "Look what you've done to that poor boat!" But that's the nature of sport, you're supposed to spend your time & effort overcoming a bunch of artificially imposed barriers Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
William R. Watt wrote:
First time boatbuilders tend to like any boat they build regardless of performance, and defend their ideosyncracies. That's true. It's also why, in extreme cases, the builders are assumed to be rather eccentric! ... Dingy cruisers tend to ignore performance while praising versatility and other such advantages, as evidenced by the many Potter's, Comapacs, Dovekies, and such. I suspect many dingy cruising sailors are campers and wanderers first, and sailors last. Also very true. Anything is more fun if you can do it in a boat. However, if you're going to be sailing anyway, why not make it fun? Personally, I think sailing a boat is the most fun you can have with your clothes on. DSK |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Morgan Ohlson wrote:
[...] But, if making The Big effort to design and buid a dinghy I will not let it be bad in any sense since it would be a waist of time and money. Versatile, balanced, stable, reliable, roomy... ...wich doesn't seem to outrule a fast under waterline-body. 2 x 40kg pivoting centerboards (for low D) water ballast outboard well at the weight of maximum 70Kgs (empty 17½' x 6½ hull). ...some luxeries wich naturally will slow the vesell down, but not more then nesessary. From the beginning I thought of some skegs wich are now outruled. Only true foiles under WL!!! Thos 70 kg's will not get you much boat. assuming a sg of 400 kg per m^3 those 70 kg will get you a stack of about 9 sheets of 6 mm ply. If you look at other designs in this lengt range, you'll find that 9 sheets is pretty low. But what are the ballasted boards and water ballast for? preventing you to get on a plane? the ballasted boards will only do much good in a capsized situation, but do you really want the boat to get get up again after it has thrown you out? Sure it will lower the center of gravity somewhat, but in the end it is only the vertical projection of the mass that counts. moving your body around is much more effective then leting the boat fall over. Water ballast will make your boat more stable. At the cost of (at lot of) space inside, it will save you from putting heavy ballast or floorboards in. But it will probably prevent your boat from getting on a plane as it is too heavy. Maybe a catamaran style boat is what you are looking for? no need for water ballast, can be built with less material (actually it is less boat anyway) and will go faster than a dinghy, is more stable while still allowing a narrow waterline. Downside is that you will sit more exposed on it and that you will have much less carrying capacity. Some designers who's designs i like are Iain Ougthred (sp?) and John Welshford. Youmight have a look at their designs first before designing your own. The Teal book is quite a good read, IMHO, but you should be able to find some books focussed on smaller boats. I designed and built (or better built & designed) my own folding dinghy, but would go for plans next time. It takes too much time to think out the next steps if you do not have a plan. and the cost is offset by the chance you end up with a boat that is not what you thought it would be. -- vriendelijke groeten/kind regards, Jelle |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 13:41:59 +0200, Jelle wrote:
Morgan Ohlson wrote: [...] But, if making The Big effort to design and buid a dinghy I will not let it be bad in any sense since it would be a waist of time and money. Versatile, balanced, stable, reliable, roomy... ...wich doesn't seem to outrule a fast under waterline-body. 2 x 40kg pivoting centerboards (for low D) water ballast outboard well at the weight of maximum 70Kgs (empty 17½' x 6½ hull). ...some luxeries wich naturally will slow the vesell down, but not more then nesessary. From the beginning I thought of some skegs wich are now outruled. Only true foiles under WL!!! Thos 70 kg's will not get you much boat. **** off, please! This kind of person is only around here to convinse me and you (other builders) that we never should try to do any boat that wouldn't be profitable for standard manufacturing. The truth is that we can build boats far better compared to standard factory modells. They blow their ****ing glass strands at random in a mould... and talk about what is good and not. The fact is that the open camping cruiser I'm on to would cost probably 10.000$ if built profesionally at my spec's. I have met this kind of dooms day priests at some other forum before... and they are only in it to bragg and to disincourage anyone trying to beat them pro's. In one forum a person who claimed to be a pro stated that it was impossible to build liter in GRP compared to plywood... They have the idea that all hombuild always must look like a home built from a kilometer or two. Plywood is a good material, but everything else pro's like to keep for themselves.... Arrrghhhh..... Now I will take hot bath to relax from the pessimist salesman. Greetings to all you serious home designers and builders. Morgan O. Former engineer in the aircraft industry. |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Morgan Ohlson wrote:
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 13:41:59 +0200, Jelle wrote: Morgan Ohlson wrote: [...] But, if making The Big effort to design and buid a dinghy I will not let it be bad in any sense since it would be a waist of time and money. Versatile, balanced, stable, reliable, roomy... ...wich doesn't seem to outrule a fast under waterline-body. 2 x 40kg pivoting centerboards (for low D) water ballast outboard well at the weight of maximum 70Kgs (empty 17½' x 6½ hull). ...some luxeries wich naturally will slow the vesell down, but not more then nesessary. From the beginning I thought of some skegs wich are now outruled. Only true foiles under WL!!! Thos 70 kg's will not get you much boat. **** off, please! Usenet is not a nice place, but no need for you to make it more friendly. You seem to forget that I spent time to answer your questions with some of my experience, and asking nothing in return. Please accept that people on usenet will seem/act a bit belingerent, just as we accept you acting like a prick... This kind of person is only around here to convinse me and you (other builders) that we never should try to do any boat that wouldn't be profitable for standard manufacturing. Right. But where did i tell you to use standard manufacturing techniques? If you have the skill to succesfully make a carbon/glass epoxy boat: fine go ahead, and let us know of your successes. Most novice boatbuilders have more luck with plywood, because it is relatively light and easy to work with. The truth is that we can build boats far better compared to standard factory modells. They blow their ****ing glass strands at random in a mould... and talk about what is good and not. The fact is that the open camping cruiser I'm on to would cost probably 10.000$ if built profesionally at my spec's. So? Manufacturing boats is a though job? manual labour is expensive? As a (former?) aircraft engineer, you must be used to getting a heafty hourly wage. Now factor in normal overhead expenses and the like, what would your boat cost? I have met this kind of dooms day priests at some other forum before... and they are only in it to bragg and to disincourage anyone trying to beat them pro's. In one forum a person who claimed to be a pro stated that it was impossible to build liter in GRP compared to plywood... I am no pro, don't claim to be anything other an amateur. If you can make a Glass reinforced boat that is lighter than a plywood boat of the same strenght: go right ahead. Myself I will not try that route, not because I don't believe your claim, but because you need to build a mould first, and possibly need other vacuum kit as well. It is just too messy. I don't think it is worth that much effort. The book that you have not read by John Teal list GPR just a small rung above building in steel, and I have a tendency to believe him more than you. They have the idea that all hombuild always must look like a home built from a kilometer or two. I can think for myself, and hopefully so can you. But you don't need to imagine your ideas in my head, that only makes life more difficult. Plywood is a good material, but everything else pro's like to keep for themselves.... I would venture that more epoxy is sold to homebuilders than to professional boatbuilders. (as pro's would go for cheaper polyester resins) Arrrghhhh..... Now I will take hot bath to relax from the pessimist salesman. Greetings to all you serious home designers and builders. Morgan O. Former engineer in the aircraft industry. And a lot of hands on experience with GPR in that industry I presume? -- vriendelijke groeten/kind regards, Jelle begin msblaster.pif |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 21:28:12 +0200, Jelle wrote:
Morgan Ohlson wrote: On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 13:41:59 +0200, Jelle wrote: Morgan Ohlson wrote: Morgan O. Former engineer in the aircraft industry. And a lot of hands on experience with GPR in that industry I presume? Yes, in the department I worked everybody, except for adminstrators worked with some kind of composites. At that time we didn't work with for instance Spectra, but that I did later on... Perhaps could understand that there is basicly no difference at all in building a graphite mast or a GRP mast... Basicly there are no difference between vacuume or non-vacuum processes either.... only the resulting percentage of voids. Morgan O. |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
Morgan Ohlson wrote:
[...] Yes, in the department I worked everybody, except for adminstrators worked with some kind of composites. At that time we didn't work with for instance Spectra, but that I did later on... Mind if I ask what your age is? Spectra/kevlar/aramide etc have been around for about 10 ? years and you are a former aircraft engineer (saab?)... = Perhaps could understand that there is basicly no difference at all in building a graphite mast or a GRP mast... sure. but the site you mentioned was not detailing a very good grp mast was it? Basicly there are no difference between vacuume or non-vacuum processes either.... only the resulting percentage of voids. and the excess resin? and the shape and surface? I am not an expert, but I can imagine these things will be much easier if you make a mold. And if you have the mold, why not use a vacuum on it. after all, most carpenters clamp their joints when they are glueing it, and this is 'just' glueing a bunch of fibres together. Morgan O. -- vriendelijke groeten/kind regards, Jelle begin thereisnothinghere.exe |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 20:52:28 +0200, Jelle wrote:
Morgan Ohlson wrote: [...] and the excess resin? Can easily be controlled with peel plies. Morgan O. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General |