"Peter Wiley" wrote:
How times have changed. When I was a kid, that's where chicken dinner
came from, and that's what happened to roosters that got a bit too
cocky. They really could run around with their heads chopped off.

I cried my eyes out one time when I went outside and discovered my favorite
rooster hanging headless from the clothesline. Thoroughly enjoyed him for
dinner that night. We really are raising a bunch of woosies.

Seahag

"DSK" wrote:
Seahag wrote
Cetol is great once you learn how to use it.

Maybe that's the trouble. Of all the people I've ever seen use it, the
best looks like a layer of smeared-on orange jello. The new stuff "Cetol
Lite" looks a little better.

Judging by how quickly it turns to crap, and how much touch up work it
seems to need to avert this, IMHO it doesn't last one minute longer than
varnish, either. Makes more sense to put on a coat of paint.


.... It's way more forgiving on
older teak than varnish. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to put
on
16 coats of varnish only to have the plugs and seams blow damn near
every
spring. F**k varnish:^)

Never had this problem. Sounds like the wood is getting too much
moisture into it. What are you using for a base coat? What's it bedded
on? 16 coats of varnish ought to hold up much better than that. Right
now we're on coat #11 (my wife is doing 99% of it).

I had a conversation with a guy on our dock who is PO'd about his Cetol
that he switched to last year. He got fed up with varnish (apparently he
got the impression that 3 or 4 coats was enough to last a year) and
sanded his gunwhale, eyebrow, handrails (now *there's* a PITA) etc etc
down to bare wood so as to put on Cetol Lite. Looked like orange jello,
but at least you could almost see the wood grain. Now it's mostly flaked
off and the wood's got black spots again.


I sand the wood to 220 grit and apply 3 coats as per lable. Then after a
week I knock the inevitable chunks off with a 220 hand sanding and put on a
final coat. It isn't varnish, but I can live with the results. I put on a
coat in the fall and spring if I can. The weather was awful last year so I
didn't get it on in time so the edges failed. I've been touching it up this
last couple of weeks and it's getting there. The stuff blends in pretty
well. I've used the Cetol lite at work but I'm concerned it doesn't have
the umph to last a whole year.

What's up with mast supports? Are you switching to deck stepped masts?


The main mast step is on the sole so there needs to be something between
that and the keel besides 18" of air. There were a couple of loose
chunks
of oak, but we'd like something more likely to stay in place when the
you
know hits the fan.

I'd consider molding in some fiberglass supports. From what you've
already done with the hanging knees, it shouldn't be too hard. Metal
corrodes and wood rots. Besides you can mold in a little gutter & basin
to catch the sap running out of the mast

That's what we're gonna do, it was just hard to figure out exactly how:^)

Seahag

They really could run around with their heads chopped off.

They bleed out better that way....my gramma and my mom always did the deed
by stringing a line, hanging them by their feet and slitting their
throats...they'd do the dance macabre without getting all mucky...
--
katysails
s/v Chanteuse
Kirie Elite 32
http://katysails.tripod.com

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax
and get used to the idea." - Robert A. Heinlein

ANyway, if you sent your emails to an address that actually
exists they would have a better chance of gettign through....

I replied to what appeared in my mailbox....

--
katysails
s/v Chanteuse
Kirie Elite 32
http://katysails.tripod.com

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax
and get used to the idea." - Robert A. Heinlein

Doug, I've been using Cetol for 9 years with no problems and it certainly
doesn't look orange. Alien's floors were done with cetol.

Hey stupid- an interior finish does not have to stand up to UV.


Hey, moron, you were talking about it looking ORANGE, not where it was applied.
Maybe it only looks orange to you outside, brainless?
Still, Ghost's Cetol is still in place after 5 seasons.
As usual, Doug, you manage to make an ass of yourself. You're quite the Cetol
expert!

Jerk! Bwahahahahahaha!

RB

Bobsprit wrote:


Proper use of Cetol
1) Sand with 80, then 160 if you like

160? Pretty unusual grit, 120 or 180 sure.

2) Wash with water bleach mixture
3) Wipe down with acetone. Teak should appear light colored with no grey!

I think the secret here is the acetone, (not a very nice solvent to be using in close confines of your cabin BTW), it acts a degreaser and strips the
natural oils from the surface of the teak and lets the cetol get a 'grip'.

I think teak decks should be left unfinished but occasionaly holy stoned, teak joinery should have regular application of teak oil, no varnish or cetol.

Cheers
Marty

"katysails" wrote in message ...
They really could run around with their heads chopped off.

They bleed out better that way....my gramma and my mom always did the deed
by stringing a line, hanging them by their feet and slitting their
throats...they'd do the dance macabre without getting all mucky...

We use to do 100 at a time, white leggerds. It was something to see 5
or 10 at a time running and flipping around the yard. Did not matter
much if they got dirty we would dunk then in boiling water to remove
the feathers.

We did not chopp or slit anything, just lay a pipe across its neck
and yank its feet the head just popped off.

Now the furry little bunny rabbits were a different story.

And every fall we would dress out at least one big deer and one head
of cattle.

And we had a 5 acre garden to tend to. Oh for the good ol days in
Springtown.

Joe

I think the secret here is the acetone, (not a very nice solvent to be using in
close confines of your cabin BTW), it acts a degreaser and strips the
natural oils from the surface of the teak and lets the cetol get a 'grip'.

yep. The bleach water mix is to get the sanding dust off and to brighten the
wood a bit for better color. Acetone really drys out the upper surface and teak
is naturally oily wood. Works great, looks good and lasts and lasts.
Unless you're dumb like Doug!

RB

Bobsprit wrote:
yep. The bleach water mix is to get the sanding dust off and to brighten the
wood a bit for better color.

Funny, I have never used bleach on any of our wood. If you want to get
off the dust, using a shop vac with a brush attachment works best.
Putting water onto wood that you are going to try and put a finish on is
not a good idea, especially in a humid climate.

... Acetone really drys out the upper surface and teak
is naturally oily wood.

Haven't done that on our current boat. However we have used a thinned
clear coat which penetrates into the wood.

... Works great, looks good and lasts and lasts.
Unless you're dumb like Doug!

If I'm dumb, then how come people have left us notes on the boat saying
how beautiful the woodwork is? We have the prettiest boat with the
prettiest varnish for miles and miles around.

Fresh Varnish- Doug King

Seahag wrote:
I sand the wood to 220 grit and apply 3 coats as per lable.

One of the benefits of Cetol is that you don't have to wait as long
between coats, right? This year we're using a new varnish that can also
be applied over a wet coat.

We started out using 80 grit to take of the DPO's layer of polyurethane
(now that ought to be a criminal offense). Then 150 to smooth it; both
with power sander. Then the first couple of coats of sealer/primer went
on, hand sanding (using a block on much of it) with 180 grit then 220.
By this time it's actually going pretty well since you feel like you're
making progress. The worst part is the initial sanding, takes forever
and you feel like you're accomplishing nothing.

After 5 or 6 coats of sealer/primer, we switched to real varnish and 400
grit wet/dry. The wood was totally sealed at this point and already
looking gorgeous. 3 or 4 more coats sanding with 400 then 600 grit &
soapy water. The last 2 or 3 coats went on with this new 'Jet-Dry'
stuff. Some of it is not really mirror smooth but it still looks good.

A few people looking at our caprail have assumed it was coated with some
new kind of miracle clear plastic.


... Then after a
week I knock the inevitable chunks off with a 220 hand sanding and put on a
final coat. It isn't varnish, but I can live with the results.

The important thing is that you're satisfied with it.


... I put on a
coat in the fall and spring if I can. The weather was awful last year so I
didn't get it on in time so the edges failed. I've been touching it up this
last couple of weeks and it's getting there. The stuff blends in pretty
well.

Varnish blends perfectly

... I've used the Cetol lite at work but I'm concerned it doesn't have
the umph to last a whole year.

Nothing lasts a whole year if you're far enough south. UV tears up
everything.

Judging by what I've seen, of the people who use Cetol or one of the
other 'labor saving' finishes, it's still more work than most are
willing to put into it... and it doesn't look anywhere near as good. Our
finish is maybe 20% more work to put on and 10% more work to maintain,
but IMHO it looks 1,000% better. But that's easy for me to say, I do
very little of the sanding and almost none of the actual varnishing... I
am too busy in the engine room

Fresh Breezes- Doug King