Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR


wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR




That makes sense. So what's the plan?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------

On Jul 25, 10:57*pm, JR North wrote:
Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:





So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR

wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR

That makes sense. *So what's the plan?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
* * * *Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

HOME PAGE:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Not sure I'd be comfortable with that. Never heard of anyone homing a
cylinder with the piston still in. Honing is primarily to create a
surface for new rings to break in against. You are not replacing the
rings and you do not have compression problems. Honing also produces
a great deal of metal dust that is very difficult to remove if the
piston is in the way. A lot of it is going to get trapped in the gap
between the piston and the cylinder walls. If you want to hone the
cylinders you need to remove the block and the pistons and also
replace the rings.

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:15:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


Not sure I'd be comfortable with that. Never heard of anyone homing a
cylinder with the piston still in. Honing is primarily to create a
surface for new rings to break in against. You are not replacing the
rings and you do not have compression problems. Honing also produces
a great deal of metal dust that is very difficult to remove if the
piston is in the way. A lot of it is going to get trapped in the gap
between the piston and the cylinder walls. If you want to hone the
cylinders you need to remove the block and the pistons and also
replace the rings.

The last bottom end I did (352) also needed ridge reaming, but it had
a lot more time (miles) on it. That leaves substantial shavings.
I didn't notice metal from doing the crosshatching, but the hone
leaves grit, which is no better.
A good blasting with compressed air around the gap should blow it out.

--Vic

On Jul 28, 12:53*pm, Vic Smith
wrote:
On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:15:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Not sure I'd be comfortable with that. *Never heard of anyone homing a
cylinder with the piston still in. *Honing is primarily to create a
surface for new rings to break in against. *You are not replacing the
rings and you do not have compression problems. *Honing also produces
a great deal of metal dust that is very difficult to remove if the
piston is in the way. *A lot of it is going to get trapped in the gap
between the piston and the cylinder walls. *If you want to hone the
cylinders you need to remove the block and the pistons and also
replace the rings.

The last bottom end I did (352) also needed ridge reaming, but it had
a lot more time (miles) on it. *That leaves substantial shavings.
I didn't notice metal from doing the crosshatching, but the hone
leaves grit, which is no better.
A good blasting with compressed air around the gap should blow it out.

--Vic

Sorry, I'm still thinking that honing a cylinder with the piston in is
not a good idea.

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:36:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Jul 28, 12:53?pm, Vic Smith
wrote:
On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 09:15:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Not sure I'd be comfortable with that. ?Never heard of anyone homing a
cylinder with the piston still in. ?Honing is primarily to create a
surface for new rings to break in against. ?You are not replacing the
rings and you do not have compression problems. ?Honing also produces
a great deal of metal dust that is very difficult to remove if the
piston is in the way. ?A lot of it is going to get trapped in the gap
between the piston and the cylinder walls. ?If you want to hone the
cylinders you need to remove the block and the pistons and also
replace the rings.

The last bottom end I did (352) also needed ridge reaming, but it had
a lot more time (miles) on it. ?That leaves substantial shavings.
I didn't notice metal from doing the crosshatching, but the hone
leaves grit, which is no better.
A good blasting with compressed air around the gap should blow it out.

--Vic

Sorry, I'm still thinking that honing a cylinder with the piston in is
not a good idea.

Me too, but it ain't my boat and I ain't doing the job.
For all I know he knows a hell of lot more than me about it.
I just wish JR luck and hope all goes well.
Have to keep a positive attitude (-:

--Vic

OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100%
success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents
debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a
thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can
only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type).
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR


wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR




That makes sense. So what's the plan?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------

On Jul 28, 10:27*pm, JR North wrote:
OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100%
success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents
debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a
thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can
only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type).
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North





wrote:
Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR

wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left..
JR

That makes sense. *So what's the plan?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
* * * *Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------

HOME PAGE:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I use gmail too, so I switched over to AOL acct, for this thread.

I see what you're doing and although it might be the most aproved
method, it's still good. Especially if pulling the block and total
dismantlement is prohibitive.

i think you're on the right track.

(now back to g-mail) ?:

Be that as it may, I worked for 6 years in fleet shop servicing over 2000
vehicles and no one ever honed a cylinder with the pistons still in. Nor
did I ever hear of anyone doing it at any dealerships or other shops.

"JR North" wrote in message
...
OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100%
success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents
debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a
thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can
only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type).
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone
the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also
for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The
cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a
comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR


wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to
run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR




That makes sense. So what's the plan?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------

On Jul 29, 9:38*am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
Be that as it may, I worked for 6 years in fleet shop servicing over 2000
vehicles and no one ever honed a cylinder with the pistons still in. *Nor
did I ever hear of anyone doing it at any dealerships or other shops.

"JR North" wrote in message

...



OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100%
success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents
debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a
thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can
only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type).
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone
the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also
for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The
cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a
comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR

wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to
run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.

On Jul 29, 9:03*am, wrote:
On Jul 29, 9:38*am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:





Be that as it may, I worked for 6 years in fleet shop servicing over 2000
vehicles and no one ever honed a cylinder with the pistons still in. *Nor
did I ever hear of anyone doing it at any dealerships or other shops.

"JR North" wrote in message

.. .

OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100%
success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents
debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a
thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can
only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type).
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone
the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also
for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The
cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a
comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR

wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to
run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR

That makes sense. *So what's the plan?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
* * * *Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know I wouldn't!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know I wouldnt' either, but he opted not to pull the block so I'd
say he's got a good secondary idea, here.

Even so, he's already stated that this is a high hr engine and doesn't
expect to get a great amount of life out of it.

But granted that honing the cylinders arn't going to really provide
much to compensate the worn rings. Actually the honing might promote
premature compression failure and/or accelerated oil usage.

Again guys, it's not our engines and if he has some success, them more
power to him....