On Jul 25, 10:57*pm, JR North wrote:
Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR
On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:
So you're removing the block as well?
"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR
wrote:
On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:
The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR
That makes sense. *So what's the plan?
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Not sure I'd be comfortable with that. Never heard of anyone homing a
cylinder with the piston still in. Honing is primarily to create a
surface for new rings to break in against. You are not replacing the
rings and you do not have compression problems. Honing also produces
a great deal of metal dust that is very difficult to remove if the
piston is in the way. A lot of it is going to get trapped in the gap
between the piston and the cylinder walls. If you want to hone the
cylinders you need to remove the block and the pistons and also
replace the rings.