On Jul 29, 12:27*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 29, 9:03*am, wrote:





On Jul 29, 9:38*am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:

Be that as it may, I worked for 6 years in fleet shop servicing over 2000
vehicles and no one ever honed a cylinder with the pistons still in. *Nor
did I ever hear of anyone doing it at any dealerships or other shops.

"JR North" wrote in message

.. .

OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100%
success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents
debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a
thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can
only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type).
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone
the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also
for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The
cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a
comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR

wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to
run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR

That makes sense. *So what's the plan?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
* * * *Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know I wouldn't!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know I wouldnt' either, but he opted not to pull the block so I'd
say he's got a good secondary idea, here.

Even so, he's already stated that this is a high hr engine and doesn't
expect to get a great amount of life out of it.

But granted that honing the cylinders arn't going to really provide
much to compensate the worn rings. Actually the honing might promote
premature compression failure and/or accelerated oil usage.

Again guys, it's not our engines and if he has some success, them more
power to him....- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agreed, he can do anything he wants to it. Not agreed that it is a
good idea. Any evidence is antidotal as to the success. Just because
the engine still worked is not evidence of success. There is no
reason to expect it to improve the engine's life expectancy and all
sorts of reason to think it will cause the opposite.

On Jul 29, 11:35*am, wrote:
On Jul 29, 12:27*pm, Tim wrote:





On Jul 29, 9:03*am, wrote:

On Jul 29, 9:38*am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:

Be that as it may, I worked for 6 years in fleet shop servicing over 2000
vehicles and no one ever honed a cylinder with the pistons still in.. *Nor
did I ever hear of anyone doing it at any dealerships or other shops.

"JR North" wrote in message

.. .

OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100%
success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents
debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a
thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can
only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type).
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone
the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also
for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The
cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a
comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR

wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to
run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR

That makes sense. *So what's the plan?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
* * * *Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know I wouldn't!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I know I wouldnt' either, but he opted not to pull the block so I'd
say he's got a good secondary idea, here.

Even so, he's already stated that this is a high hr engine and doesn't
expect to get a great amount of life out of it.

But granted that honing the cylinders arn't going to really provide
much to compensate the worn rings. Actually the honing might promote
premature compression failure and/or accelerated oil usage.

Again guys, it's not our engines and if he has some success, them more
power to him....- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agreed, he can do anything he wants to it. *Not agreed that it is a
good idea. *Any evidence is antidotal as to the success. *Just because
the engine still worked is not evidence of success. *There is no
reason to expect it to improve the engine's life expectancy and all
sorts of reason to think it will cause the opposite.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My thoughts exactly.

But, i wasn't going to say that...

?;^ )