wrote in message
...
On Mar 15, 10:48 am, Tim wrote:
Probably not, Don. But then again, I've never seen much future or need
in lobbing beefsteak tomatos.



Don White wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message
...
No, I've enver been hit by a 67 mph tomatoe. as far as throwing faster
w/out dislocating my shoulddr, heck yes. I used to throw in the 90's
in a church league baseball team, till I crushed my wrist in an
unrelated accident 10 yrs ago. Haven't played since. I can still throw
a ball, but not w/ any accuracy.

You've never seen the size of our tomatoes. No comparison to a puny
baseball.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes

==========================


If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:

Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle, don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles will be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in front
of, the saddle peaks.

On Mar 15, 11:38*am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes

==========================

If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:

Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle, don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles will be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

wrote in message
...
On Mar 15, 11:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes

==========================

If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:

Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep
them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This
Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To
correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle,
don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles will
be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the
final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

=============

You loosen the string a LOT so there's not a lot of friction against the
bridge piece. Some bridge pieces are pointy where they touch the string, so
they're likely to do more damage than yours, which are rounded. But yours
could still cause separations in the windings as it moves beneath them. So,
the idea is to overadjust the bridge pieces so they're much further down
toward the tail of the bass. Then, as you move them back up toward the
correct intonation point, any minor damage they do will be behind them. Does
that make sense?


http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...ur/Jun-05/9672

On Mar 15, 12:03*pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Mar 15, 11:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:







Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes

==========================

If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:

Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep
them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This
Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To
correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle,
don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles will
be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the
final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

=============

You loosen the string a LOT so there's not a lot of friction against the
bridge piece. Some bridge pieces are pointy where they touch the string, so
they're likely to do more damage than yours, which are rounded. But yours
could still cause separations in the windings as it moves beneath them. So,
the idea is to overadjust the bridge pieces so they're much further down
toward the tail of the bass. Then, as you move them back up toward the
correct intonation point, any minor damage they do will be behind them. Does
that make sense?

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...r/Jun-05/9672- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, thanks.. btw, this is a 6 string guitar, someday I will get a
bass. I have a Ukelele

wrote in message
...
On Mar 15, 12:03 pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Mar 15, 11:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:







Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes

==========================

If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:

Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep
them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles
farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action
is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This
Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To
correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string
is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle,
don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles
will
be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the
final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in
front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

=============

You loosen the string a LOT so there's not a lot of friction against the
bridge piece. Some bridge pieces are pointy where they touch the string,
so
they're likely to do more damage than yours, which are rounded. But yours
could still cause separations in the windings as it moves beneath them.
So,
the idea is to overadjust the bridge pieces so they're much further down
toward the tail of the bass. Then, as you move them back up toward the
correct intonation point, any minor damage they do will be behind them.
Does
that make sense?

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...r/Jun-05/9672- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, thanks.. btw, this is a 6 string guitar, someday I will get a
bass. I have a Ukelele

===============

It's even more important on a guitar, since the strings are more easily
damaged. Here's more from the same guy. Maybe he's got some tips for the
same procedure on a guitar. Try a search for "dan erlewine" at this site:

http://www.guitarplayer.com

On Mar 15, 12:32*pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Mar 15, 12:03 pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:





wrote in message

...
On Mar 15, 11:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes

==========================

If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:

Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep
them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles
farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action
is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This
Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To
correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string
is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle,
don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles
will
be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the
final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in
front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

=============

You loosen the string a LOT so there's not a lot of friction against the
bridge piece. Some bridge pieces are pointy where they touch the string,
so
they're likely to do more damage than yours, which are rounded. But yours
could still cause separations in the windings as it moves beneath them.
So,
the idea is to overadjust the bridge pieces so they're much further down
toward the tail of the bass. Then, as you move them back up toward the
correct intonation point, any minor damage they do will be behind them.
Does
that make sense?

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...n-05/9672-Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, thanks.. btw, this is a 6 string guitar, someday I will get a
bass. I have a Ukelele

===============

It's even more important on a guitar, since the strings are more easily
damaged. Here's more from the same guy. Maybe he's got some tips for the
same procedure on a guitar. Try a search for "dan erlewine" at this site:

http://www.guitarplayer.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or this Who'd a thunk, I got to get out more...

http://youtube.com/results?search_qu...search_type =

On Mar 14, 2:27*pm, wrote:
Got a call a little while ago from my guitar instructor. This guy
plays everything from classical to zydeco, and is very good. Well, his
rock band is playing a local club, told me to come by, and oh, don't
forget your guitar, it's time I got you to play to a crowd!!!! Now,
I've played quite a few years, have taken lessons a lot, and then
practiced alot, but I just never got comfortable with thinking I was
good enough to play with a DECENT band, kinda shy about it. He thinks
I'm good enough, so I'm going and I'm STOKED.

The title of this left me scratching my head

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZ5iw...eature=related

I would settle for that

On Mar 15, 12:03*pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Mar 15, 11:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:







Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes

==========================

If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:

Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep
them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This
Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To
correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle,
don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles will
be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the
final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

=============

You loosen the string a LOT so there's not a lot of friction against the
bridge piece. Some bridge pieces are pointy where they touch the string, so
they're likely to do more damage than yours, which are rounded. But yours
could still cause separations in the windings as it moves beneath them. So,
the idea is to overadjust the bridge pieces so they're much further down
toward the tail of the bass. Then, as you move them back up toward the
correct intonation point, any minor damage they do will be behind them. Does
that make sense?

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...r/Jun-05/9672- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, I did it, man what a difference. Once I got a feel for the
mechanics, it was a breeze.. My first guitar setup, cool. Dave would
be proud If of course he were here...

wrote:
On Mar 15, 12:03 pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Mar 15, 11:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:







Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes
==========================
If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:
Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep
them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This
Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To
correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle,
don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles will
be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the
final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

=============

You loosen the string a LOT so there's not a lot of friction against the
bridge piece. Some bridge pieces are pointy where they touch the string, so
they're likely to do more damage than yours, which are rounded. But yours
could still cause separations in the windings as it moves beneath them. So,
the idea is to overadjust the bridge pieces so they're much further down
toward the tail of the bass. Then, as you move them back up toward the
correct intonation point, any minor damage they do will be behind them. Does
that make sense?

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...r/Jun-05/9672- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, I did it, man what a difference. Once I got a feel for the
mechanics, it was a breeze.. My first guitar setup, cool. Dave would
be proud If of course he were here...



This is really exciting stuff to read about in a boating newsgroup. even
more exciting than the political nonsense. Keep it up!

"HK" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Mar 15, 12:03 pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Mar 15, 11:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:







Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes
==========================
If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:
Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep
them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles
farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action
is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This
Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the
distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To
correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string
is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all
of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle,
don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles
will
be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted
notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the
final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in
front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

=============

You loosen the string a LOT so there's not a lot of friction against the
bridge piece. Some bridge pieces are pointy where they touch the string,
so
they're likely to do more damage than yours, which are rounded. But
yours
could still cause separations in the windings as it moves beneath them.
So,
the idea is to overadjust the bridge pieces so they're much further down
toward the tail of the bass. Then, as you move them back up toward the
correct intonation point, any minor damage they do will be behind them.
Does
that make sense?

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...r/Jun-05/9672- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, I did it, man what a difference. Once I got a feel for the
mechanics, it was a breeze.. My first guitar setup, cool. Dave would
be proud If of course he were here...



This is really exciting stuff to read about in a boating newsgroup. even
more exciting than the political nonsense. Keep it up!

Just curious. What in the thread title piqued your interest?