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On Mar 15, 12:03 pm, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
wrote in message

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On Mar 15, 11:38 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:







Hey, geetar players.. wish me luck. Today I am going to try to set up
the intonation on my schaller roller bridge. New strings the other
day, just read about how to do it on another group. Sounds easier than
I thought. Going to tune on the 5th and 17th frets to start. I will
let you know how it goes

==========================

If you wanna be anal about it, check out this bit of detail:

Fig. 8 Kinked strings are difficult to intonate, so you'll want to keep
them
from kinking in front of the exact "takeoff" point needed for good
intonation. Before installing new strings, move the bridge saddles
farther
back than where they'll be after the intonation is set. Once the action
is
comfortable, adjust the saddles forward (toward the neck). This
Musicmaster
has a short scale length of 30". (The scale length is twice the distance
from the nut's front edge to the 12th fret, in this case 15".) To
correctly
intonate an electric bass, you'll need to compensate the scale-length
measurement by as much as q", as this allows for the distance a string
is
depressed when you fret a note. Adjust the bridge saddles so that all of
their peaks are just a bit farther back than the adjusted measurement
(slightly more than 30q" in this case). To move a spring-loaded saddle,
don't
simply tighten the length-adjusting screw-push the saddle backward to
relieve the pressure, and then tighten the screw. The bridge saddles
will
be
slightly farther back than you want (and the intonation on fretted notes
will be flat), but you'll be moving them forward when you perform the
final
intonation. That will leave any possible string kinks behind, not in
front
of, the saddle peaks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that, however it leaves me confused. My Schaller is indeed
a spring loaded bridge. So when you have done this to your equipment,
did you loosen the string before you moved the roller back or just
stretch it by adding more (length) tension to the adjustment?

=============

You loosen the string a LOT so there's not a lot of friction against the
bridge piece. Some bridge pieces are pointy where they touch the string,
so
they're likely to do more damage than yours, which are rounded. But yours
could still cause separations in the windings as it moves beneath them.
So,
the idea is to overadjust the bridge pieces so they're much further down
toward the tail of the bass. Then, as you move them back up toward the
correct intonation point, any minor damage they do will be behind them.
Does
that make sense?

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/wo...r/Jun-05/9672- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, thanks.. btw, this is a 6 string guitar, someday I will get a
bass. I have a Ukelele

===============

It's even more important on a guitar, since the strings are more easily
damaged. Here's more from the same guy. Maybe he's got some tips for the
same procedure on a guitar. Try a search for "dan erlewine" at this site:

http://www.guitarplayer.com