On Aug 21, 3:09 pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

Thanks, I would replace the timing marks but I have already looked
into replacing them and it is welded on and the only way to replace it
would require replacing the entire timing cover. I don't think that
the problem is vapor lock because the engine doesn't run hot, only
about 165 to 170 degrees. Also even if I let the boat cool down after
it dies it won't start unless I adjust the timing. Therefore I think
that it is the coil causing the problems, and I went out and bought
that today so I am hoping that replacing it will fix the problem.
James