On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 17:18:59 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Okay I was planning on buying a new electronic distributor, but those
have really gone up in price. Since I don't want to spend that much
money so I will repair this one. But the problem is that today I
looked at the mechanical advance in the distributor and everything was
intact and appeared to be moving fine. Therefore I don't think that
this is the problem like I originally did. The points did have slight
pitting but nothing severe. Tomorrow I am going to order the
electronic conversion kit because I want to get rid of the points.
However I don't think that the distributor is the problem, so this
won't fix it. Does anyone have any other suggestions on what could be
wrong? I want to fix this myself because I am pretty mechanically
inclined and don't want to pay a mechanic. I was thinking maybe the
coil is bad because there is slight pitting in the distributor cap.
Also I don't think it is the timing chain causing the problem because
this boat was not used very often. The previous owner had the boat
for five years and never once used it. So this problem may have been
caused because the boat sat for five years, although it was properly
winterized. This may be a carburetor problem, although I am leaning
towards an ignition problem. I have already sprayed the carburetor
with carburetor cleaner but if I can't fix this problem my next step
will be to try rebuilding the carburetor.

If I recall correctly, the thing would run well, then die.
You would tinker with the points and it would be okay for awhile.
While you were tinkering, things were cooling off.
Look for something heat related in the fuel/ignition.
I think you said there was no fuel venting problem.
Don't waste time rebuilding the carb if you're not sure that's the
problem, and it probably isn't, given your symptoms.
It won't hurt to replace the coil, points and condenser.
Coils can cause intermittent problems.
I would do this before doing the electronic conversion, because the
conversion itself will introduce new doubts.
But even before that, if it runs well for a while now, I would hook up
ignition meters and fuel gages, reproduce the problem while monitoring
the gages, before I did *anything* else.. Be careful not to short
anything or leak any gas while running.
Note, I don't have experience with marine engines, but plenty with
automotive, and your problem is an engine problem.

--Vic

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:02:02 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

Not familiar with the timing marks on yours, but a wire brush might
make it all readable. Paint the fixed and movable marks with white
or yellow nail polish when you find them.
Look on the net for a picture to help you out, or find somebody who
knows where the marks are.

--Vic

Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:02:02 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

Not familiar with the timing marks on yours, but a wire brush might
make it all readable. Paint the fixed and movable marks with white
or yellow nail polish when you find them.
Look on the net for a picture to help you out, or find somebody who
knows where the marks are.

--Vic

Bingo.

And then you just have to be close.

Then time it by ear & tach on the water in real running conditions.
Once you have it set with the Pertronix module, you'll never have to
change it again unless your fuel or altitude changes drastically.

Rob

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:
I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

On Aug 21, 3:09 pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

Thanks, I would replace the timing marks but I have already looked
into replacing them and it is welded on and the only way to replace it
would require replacing the entire timing cover. I don't think that
the problem is vapor lock because the engine doesn't run hot, only
about 165 to 170 degrees. Also even if I let the boat cool down after
it dies it won't start unless I adjust the timing. Therefore I think
that it is the coil causing the problems, and I went out and bought
that today so I am hoping that replacing it will fix the problem.
James