Davej wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Davej wrote:

Ok, I will give this a try. It says to clean first with cotol, paint
thinner, or nail polish remover. I wonder which is least toxic?
I've been using 70% denatured alcohol (the stuff available at
drugstores/supermarkets) without any glue/adhesion problems.

Denatured not isopropyl? Thanks.

Drug store alcohol is isopropyl, not denatured. Denatured alcohol
(ethanol with enough methanol added to make it undrinkable) is found at
hardware and paint stores, and is commonly used as a thinner for shellac
and as a mild, general-purpose degreaser. Either one will work, but MEK
works better, though it's more toxic.

On Jan 24, 7:21 pm, Brian Nystrom wrote:
Davej wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Davej wrote:
Ok, I will give this a try. It says to clean first with cotol, paint
thinner, or nail polish remover. I wonder which is least toxic?
I've been using 70% denatured alcohol (the stuff available at
drugstores/supermarkets) without any glue/adhesion problems.

Denatured not isopropyl? Thanks.

Drug store alcohol is isopropyl, not denatured. Denatured alcohol
(ethanol with enough methanol added to make it undrinkable) is found at
hardware and paint stores, and is commonly used as a thinner for shellac
and as a mild, general-purpose degreaser. Either one will work, but MEK
works better, though it's more toxic.

I have acetone, mineral spirits, and two grades of isopropyl. Maybe
I'll experiment.

Davej wrote:

I have acetone, mineral spirits, and two grades of isopropyl. Maybe
I'll experiment.

Don't use mineral spirits. It's oily and potentially harmful to latex.

The difference between commonly sold isopropyl alcohols is the water
content. They're usually either 70% or 91% alcohol (sold as rubbing
alcohol), though you can get 99.9+% isopropyl that's sold for other
purposes (electronics cleaning, for one). The more water, the longer it
will take to dry after cleaning, so there's no advantage to using the
more dilute grade.