Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

Where can I get latex to make temporary repairs? I would like to put
off the full replacement until later. Thanks!

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.

Steve

On Jan 19, 10:53 am, "Davej" wrote:
Where can I get latex to make temporary repairs? I would like to put
off the full replacement until later. Thanks!

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

Per :
Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.

Now that somebody's said it, I'd think bicycle inner tubes would be good -
thinner, more flexy.... and they're available in different materials, although I
don't have a clue what the significance on one material vs the other would be
for gasket repair.
--
PeteCresswell

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per :
Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.

Now that somebody's said it, I'd think bicycle inner tubes would be good -
thinner, more flexy.... and they're available in different materials, although I
don't have a clue what the significance on one material vs the other would be
for gasket repair.

For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.
--
PeteCresswell

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

I use handy wrap to cover my pvc pipe before repairing. I also try to do
just the outer edge first and also cover it with handy wrap to stop the GOOP
from running. Sometimes the Handy Wrap comes off and sometimes it doesn't.
It doesn't really matter. The best thing is to have some spare seals. Once
one part tears the rest is on its way.

Sincerely,
Carey Robson
www.CanoeBC.ca

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
...
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it
flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was
about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a
ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the
seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put
a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs
from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.
--
PeteCresswell

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

Per Carey Robson:
The best thing is to have some spare seals. Once
one part tears the rest is on its way.

Do you find there's a shelf life issue? Everything I've heard so far about
seals is that they have a maximum life of about five years - and more often
three or four. Something about the rubber breaking down internally.
--
PeteCresswell

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Carey Robson:
The best thing is to have some spare seals. Once
one part tears the rest is on its way.

Do you find there's a shelf life issue? Everything I've heard so far about
seals is that they have a maximum life of about five years - and more often
three or four. Something about the rubber breaking down internally.

I haven't found storage to be a problem as long as the seals are kept in
sealed plastic bags and out of the light.

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.

I used 3/8" plywood for my forms and it works well. I use clear packing
tape to cover the areas that are likely to be exposed to glue.

Dry Suit Seals: Temporary Repairs?
 

Brian Nystrom wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.

I used 3/8" plywood for my forms and it works well. I use clear packing
tape to cover the areas that are likely to be exposed to glue.

So each time you replace a seal do you add another layer of rubber?
What if the original rubber layer gets really bad?