Where can I get latex to make temporary repairs? I would like to put
off the full replacement until later. Thanks!

Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.

Steve

On Jan 19, 10:53 am, "Davej" wrote:
Where can I get latex to make temporary repairs? I would like to put
off the full replacement until later. Thanks!

Per :
Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.

Now that somebody's said it, I'd think bicycle inner tubes would be good -
thinner, more flexy.... and they're available in different materials, although I
don't have a clue what the significance on one material vs the other would be
for gasket repair.
--
PeteCresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per :
Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.

Now that somebody's said it, I'd think bicycle inner tubes would be good -
thinner, more flexy.... and they're available in different materials, although I
don't have a clue what the significance on one material vs the other would be
for gasket repair.

For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.
--
PeteCresswell

I use handy wrap to cover my pvc pipe before repairing. I also try to do
just the outer edge first and also cover it with handy wrap to stop the GOOP
from running. Sometimes the Handy Wrap comes off and sometimes it doesn't.
It doesn't really matter. The best thing is to have some spare seals. Once
one part tears the rest is on its way.

Sincerely,
Carey Robson
www.CanoeBC.ca

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
...
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it
flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was
about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a
ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the
seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put
a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs
from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.
--
PeteCresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.

I used 3/8" plywood for my forms and it works well. I use clear packing
tape to cover the areas that are likely to be exposed to glue.

On Jan 19, 5:01 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per :

Old inner tubes and Aquaseal has worked for me.

Now that somebody's said it, I'd think bicycle inner tubes would be good -
thinner, more flexy.... and they're available in different materials, although I
don't have a clue what the significance on one material vs the other would be
for gasket repair.


Well, I decided to try using rubber electrical tape since it is
thinner than the bicycle inner tube, but it didn't work well. The
surface of the tape seems to be too slippery. Maybe I need to rough it
up with sandpaper -- or maybe it isn't a compatible material?
Basically it seems that repairs are only possible where the seal
doesn't stretch much. Where would I go for seals for a Henri Lloyd?
Are sleeve diameters standardized? Thanks.

Per Davej:
Where would I go for seals for a Henri Lloyd?
Are sleeve diameters standardized? Thanks.

Dunno from sleeves, but there seem tb at least 2 neck standards: the one you get
when ordering from NRS and the one used by Koketat and sold by Offshore Systems.
--
PeteCresswell

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per Davej:

Where would I go for seals for a Henri Lloyd?
Are sleeve diameters standardized? Thanks.

Dunno from sleeves, but there seem tb at least 2 neck standards: the one you get
when ordering from NRS and the one used by Koketat and sold by Offshore Systems.


This neck seems to be roughly 10" across and the sleeves seem to be 6"
across when flattened.