Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.
--
PeteCresswell

I use handy wrap to cover my pvc pipe before repairing. I also try to do
just the outer edge first and also cover it with handy wrap to stop the GOOP
from running. Sometimes the Handy Wrap comes off and sometimes it doesn't.
It doesn't really matter. The best thing is to have some spare seals. Once
one part tears the rest is on its way.

Sincerely,
Carey Robson
www.CanoeBC.ca

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
...
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it
flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was
about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a
ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the
seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put
a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs
from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.
--
PeteCresswell

Per Carey Robson:
The best thing is to have some spare seals. Once
one part tears the rest is on its way.

Do you find there's a shelf life issue? Everything I've heard so far about
seals is that they have a maximum life of about five years - and more often
three or four. Something about the rubber breaking down internally.
--
PeteCresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Carey Robson:
The best thing is to have some spare seals. Once
one part tears the rest is on its way.

Do you find there's a shelf life issue? Everything I've heard so far about
seals is that they have a maximum life of about five years - and more often
three or four. Something about the rubber breaking down internally.

I haven't found storage to be a problem as long as the seals are kept in
sealed plastic bags and out of the light.

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.

I used 3/8" plywood for my forms and it works well. I use clear packing
tape to cover the areas that are likely to be exposed to glue.

Brian Nystrom wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.

In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.

I used 3/8" plywood for my forms and it works well. I use clear packing
tape to cover the areas that are likely to be exposed to glue.

So each time you replace a seal do you add another layer of rubber?
What if the original rubber layer gets really bad?

Per Davej:
So each time you replace a seal do you add another layer of rubber?
What if the original rubber layer gets really bad?

The limit's supposedly 3 layers.

The right amount of heat lets them be peeled off.

IIRC Kokatat recommends the use of a clothes iron.
--
PeteCresswell

Davej wrote:
Brian Nystrom wrote:
(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Brian Nystrom:
For that matter, you can use tube patches to repair rips and holes or to
reinforce damaged edges. However, it's not difficult to replace the seal
and be done with it.
In the past, I'd been doing my neck seals on the hood of my car: lay it flat,
use 30-40 little magnets to hold it all together. My best time was about
45 minutes for a neck seal and 2 wrist seals.

Just did the last two neck seals with the jigs that Kokatat describes: a ring, a
plate to clamp the ring to, and a smaller plate to give the top of the seal some
shape.

The wood I cut the jigs from was way too thick - about 3/4"... Didn't put a
clock on it, but it was pretty impressive how simple the process became
alignment-wise.

If I can find some 1/4" polyethylene sheet to cut another set of jigs from, I
think it'll be even easier bc the only downside was having to separate the
seals/dryed glue from the wood.
I used 3/8" plywood for my forms and it works well. I use clear packing
tape to cover the areas that are likely to be exposed to glue.

So each time you replace a seal do you add another layer of rubber?

No, I peel off the top layer and bond the new seal to the original. OS
Systems seal glue makes this pretty easy, as all it takes is a heat gun
to soften it.

What if the original rubber layer gets really bad?

I haven't had that problem yet. If/when it happens, I'll remove the old
seal material and glue the new seal directly to the fabric.